Dr. Apex Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 With my car being down my decision in this will be made likely wether the Time sert repair works or not. If not I will be looking to sell the motor and do a 4v Aluminator swap(n/a version). Anyone done this on a similiar year car?? It looks pretty straightforward, engine, ecu, harness, maybe new exhaust manifolds, flywheel and a couple little things on the engine but it should be fairly simple as it's just a Mach motor w/cobra heads in the same car. 1 thing I think I would like chaned is the comp ratio, should be a little higher, will Ford spec some slightly higher ration pistons?? Would like a little more power than stock. Thoughts?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Not worth the cash but the threadserting is a everyday thing and really not as big a deal as you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POS VETT Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Coyote. /thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Coyote. /thread. yep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Apex Posted May 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Coyote. /thread. Electronic throttle = no thanks me thinks, also you have to gut the factory oil pan/windage tray to clear my k-member, def not doing that as it was put there for a reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Junk yard motor and drive it till you buy a non 2v car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRTurbo04 Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Follow dereke and do a 4v+ ported eaton =WIN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hal Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 I do not like the Aluminators due to some machining issues that destroyed more than a couple Cobras. I personally would have MMR build a motor to suit my desires and then go from there. If you do that, it's a simple swap. Drop the old fella out the bottom and stick a new one in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DKilbourne Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 I do not like the Aluminators due to some machining issues that destroyed more than a couple Cobras. I personally would have MMR build a motor to suit my desires and then go from there. If you do that, it's a simple swap. Drop the old fella out the bottom and stick a new one in. I thought that they had "fixed" those issues with the front covers? I guess I haven't heard too much about it since the first few issues. Some day I will build an aluminum block motor for mine, but it will most likely be with a Teksid block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Apex Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 If I can spec a new setup for near the same price as FRPP or less even I'd go for that of course. Being a motor that came in the Mach's it should be a very easy swap. Flywheel change, can modify the engine harness(I'd just swap it out) and a few odds and ends it looks like. Was hoping someone on here had some experience with this to get some first hand advice as info on the web is all over the place and nothing definitive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneSlow04GEETEE Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 What exactly is wrong with your current setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneSlow04GEETEE Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 ...besides being a 2v LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Apex Posted May 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 ...besides being a 2v LOL This.......plug in cyl 8 blew out. I've never had any intention on doing anything to this motor and it still stands, why dump money in a crap, heavy iron block 2v when you can drop in a light aluminum 4v motor?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted May 19, 2012 Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 why dump money in a crap, heavy iron block 2v when you can drop in a light aluminum 4v motor?? Becouse even the 4v is a expensive small cubic inch motor that is underwelming with out boost. (on boost is has great potenal but n/a = ehh) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hal Posted May 19, 2012 Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 I thought that they had "fixed" those issues with the front covers? I guess I haven't heard too much about it since the first few issues. Some day I will build an aluminum block motor for mine, but it will most likely be with a Teksid block. Yep, that's the issue. I honestly haven't looked at them since that stuff came to light. If I really wanted aluminum, it would be a Teksid. If I can spec a new setup for near the same price as FRPP or less even I'd go for that of course. Being a motor that came in the Mach's it should be a very easy swap. Flywheel change, can modify the engine harness(I'd just swap it out) and a few odds and ends it looks like. Was hoping someone on here had some experience with this to get some first hand advice as info on the web is all over the place and nothing definitive. Can't say I've ever done this swap, but I know the platform. It's not a really difficult swap as far as these things go. I would definitely do a lot of research into what motor really suits you. Also, what is your budget? What are your goals? I'd be happy to offer any advice I can, but I like to know more about what someone wants out of the platform. A build like this can be done to meet most budgets, depending on if you will be doing it yourself or not. Becouse even the 4v is a expensive small cubic inch motor that is underwelming with out boost. (on boost is has great potenal but n/a = ehh) I agree to an extent. The 4v motor can be a monster on spray, and we all know what they do with an Eaton. It can be built to do a lot of different things, but as a strictly NA motor, it's not my first choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
appn88 Posted May 19, 2012 Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 to put a 4v in you dont have to change the harness, me and a couple buddies put an 03 cobra motor in his 2v saleen, it worked fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Apex Posted May 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 Yep, that's the issue. I honestly haven't looked at them since that stuff came to light. If I really wanted aluminum, it would be a Teksid. Can't say I've ever done this swap, but I know the platform. It's not a really difficult swap as far as these things go. I would definitely do a lot of research into what motor really suits you. Also, what is your budget? What are your goals? I'd be happy to offer any advice I can, but I like to know more about what someone wants out of the platform. A build like this can be done to meet most budgets, depending on if you will be doing it yourself or not. I agree to an extent. The 4v motor can be a monster on spray, and we all know what they do with an Eaton. It can be built to do a lot of different things, but as a strictly NA motor, it's not my first choice. The aluminum block is the big thing for me, anything that can lighten the car is worth it's weight in gold to me, helps in all aspects of racing. I will still be doing mainly autocross/track days so trying to balance the cars weight is important. N/a does 2 things for me: Linear powerband and minimal heat generation(boost = heat), I do live in Phoenix now. I don't know the exact budget as it's ongoing and I don't mind putting things off a bit to make sure it's done right, I'd love to supercharge the car, powerband like n/a and more of it made easily and I will consider it of course, but my #1 priority is reliability. I will be perfectly happy with 300-350whp or a little more if it's reliable. I've seen the Boss 302R cars at the track, they are devastatingly fast making virtually stock power so I know I don't need a lot. I'm certainly open to options with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew2o2 Posted May 19, 2012 Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 I'm just gonna throw it out there fuck the ford garbage and put a lsx in it. Whatever Ford rates that crate motor at you could get a lsx to out do it for less when comparing rwhp and money spent. you will actually have torque then. Maximum motorsports makes a swap k member its really not that difficult. You can buy heads for an lsx for 350-500 that will out flow anything Ford you will find on the self whether sohc dohc or ohv or even custom up to 2k for worse performance. Why would you ever consider the junk ass mod motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew2o2 Posted May 19, 2012 Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 Ls1 + eps baby cam + headers = more power than your goal and more power throughout the whole powerband that a stupid overhead cam motor. You'll also have a nylon intake which is lighter and less subject to heatsoaking the air charge like aluminum which should keep your tracktimes more consistent. Modulars are also notorious for over oiling the topend which is a auto x fail. If you wise up and go lsx i can help you with any questions your may have about the swap. Just don't get a 97/98 block because they cannot be overbored. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Apex Posted May 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 It's tempting, I can easily see a lot of issues coming up with a motor like that in my car but I agree the LSX is a much stronger powerplant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneSlow04GEETEE Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 If you're not going for too crazy of N/A power, I'd just get an MMR shortblock with an aluminum block. Tell them what you're going for like high compression N/A motor or whatever. Cheaper than an Aluminator and can get all the options you would want like mainstuds, side block bolts, stronger rod bolts, etc., etc. Then find yourself a used top end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hal Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 It's tempting, I can easily see a lot of issues coming up with a motor like that in my car but I agree the LSX is a much stronger powerplant. LSX in a Mustang would just be retarded. See what kind of pricing you can get from MMR. They should be able to get you exactly what you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneSlow04GEETEE Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 LSX in a Mustang would just be retarded. Friend just put a cammed LS1/T56 in his notch. He's been driving it a little breaking the new clutch and stuff in. It's going to be pretty nasty once he's able to rip on it. He's on this forum also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hal Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 Friend just put a cammed LS1/T56 in his notch. He's been driving it a little breaking the new clutch and stuff in. It's going to be pretty nasty once he's able to rip on it. He's on this forum also. I'm not saying they won't make good power and anything else, more that the concept is retarded. Given the plethora of options for a Mustang, it seems slightly retarded to go with an LSX. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneSlow04GEETEE Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 I agree to an extent. In a good shaped new edge it would "kind of" ruin the car to some aspect. But nonetheless, the power output of an LSx is almost impossible to do for cheaper with a 4.6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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