Drew2o2

Black weld rts would be awesome but sooner or later my fireturd will be sporting a set so it wouldn't be purely unique.

Do not buy the msd opti the bearing is crap. Either new gm or a 24x conversion. If were on the topic of shitty oil pumps the lt1 takes the cake with its poor oil pressures. Most lt1s still operate near the stock rev limit and yet still have problems while the majority of ls motors thrive as they operate 600-1200 rpm above the factory rev limit. even if you fix the opti you still have a engine setup too run a weak ass timing chain. Yes you can fix that but then you still have the shitty computer and opti, by the time you fix all the plagues of the lt1 you could have bought 2 or 3 ls swaps or atleast have one really nice setup in the car.

trade you your nitrous kit back? probably would sell easier.

The truck is Legit, and David is a good guy too deal with. The engine noise is very faint in my opinion and i believe some Lucas would probably eliminate it. If not it couldnt be anything more than a set of bearings that could probably be done in the truck.

The cable is either bound up or twisted or is poor quality. Be careful u may damage ur firewall if u dont fix this. Also make sure ur quadrant is shimmed properly so the cable has a straight shot coming in instead of going to the side.

I have a king cobra and a stock turned flywheel in good condition for 125.

Well I don't do this anymore but when i first started timing motors I put the clips for keeping a stack of paper together to keep the belt on the top timing gears. You'll be fine just turn it over a couple times by hand after you have released the tensioner and make sure everything is lined up.

Sounds like a small exhaust leak but it should be present in all gears may be what your noticing in 3rd too

I would much rather do a timing belt than a tranny, but thats because im a light dude. If you need to save money DIY and if stumped post up in tech help. Just know if you have you doubts or suspiciousions stop and think about it or ask questions dont just blow thru stuff.

And its not anything too hard like you guys are discussing however it hasnt been brought up that alot of the crank bolts are difficult to brake loose without air. Couple of the guys I used to work with had 3/4 inch guns just for that bolt. My half inch needs everything it has got to break even a low mileage car loose. Also the valve adjustment sucks, I've seen quite a few techs at immke pay another tech not because they couldnt do it but because it sucks and if they had one as sidework they would rather just throw there buddy 50 bucks too do it and make 450 out of a 500 dollar job.

Reason I wasnt the cheapest is i do everything like I would do to my own car. I strive to do the best work for as cheap as possible instead of doing the cheapest work as possible as fast as i can. Like I warned you don't neglect the valve adjustment or replacing the other parts that wear with the timing set. Also a tranny cooler and new Honda atf z1 fluid and coolant to help with the longevity of the transmission. My offer still stands 500 plus parts at my cost, just don't go to whoever said they can do it for 200 including parts because they are certainly cutting corning.

Will grand am wheels work my friend has a nice aftermarket 5 spoke set with bfg kdw tires. I can ask him the price if they will work for your application.

Link for pics are up, someone make an offer this is nice stuff.

I have a stock ls2 gto cam and valvesprings with 29k miles you can have for 25 if those springs work fine.

I have for sale a variety of parts from a really nice 5.0 that my friend totaled when some dumb lady pulled infront of him. Motor was not harmed and still runs. I'm selling the majority of the car other than the differental and front suspension, and interior. Who ever buys the engine will recieve the complete motor, harness, ecu, air intake, headers, and all parasitict components such as the water pump, power steering, 130amp alternator and a/c compressor. Who ever buys the transmission will recieve, the transmission, crossmember for 94/95, harness and all sensors, driveshaft, shifter, clutch cable, steeda quadrant, steeds firewall adjuster, clutch and flywheel allthough fairly dead, clutch fork, starter. Prices are cash picked up, will consider all offers. 5.0 engine 78,000 original miles can hear run before being pulled. Complete intake to oil pan, includes gt40 intake manifold, professional products throttle body, edelbrock 94/95 adapter,cold air intake, maf, engine harness, ecu, all accesories, mounts, bbk headers, msd spark plug wires, msd cap, rotor, coil, stage 8 locking header bolts, brand new jegs replacement balancer, 160 thermostat, etc. $850 cash picked up or best offer. Tremec 3550 transmission-sold BBK off road x pipe for shorty headers and slp loud mouth catback for 94/95, catback has slightly bent tip from touching a curb and is missing one clamp but otherwise in good condition. $200 cash picked up for x pipe and catback or $150 for catback and $75 for x pipe. Bullit 17x10.5 rims in stock color in good condition with very small cosmetic imperfections, wheels have nitto nt555s 315/35r17 with very little too no tread. 200.00 cash obo picked up. Cobra front brake setup will need pads soon and rotors are okay not warped but aren't perfect. 250 obo picked up Link to pics. http://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/3188695776.html

So much conversation, if you want it done tomorrow your welcome too come by.

There is a coolant drain on the block near the starter it is a Allen head. I have a 160 and Honda blue coolant in mine. The blue stuff is ethyline glycol like traditional green coolant however it has additives to protect aluminum engine components. It runs a little cooler than stock but when in traffic it is mostly identical since i havent modified my fan speed settings yet. If you don't feel like pulling the block drain than just fill her up with distilled water a few times and then dump it until it drains clean. Do not put tap water in your car.

Fuck im a former Honda tech and the dude above me will do it for 100 less. Sounds hard to beat.

Ill have a set for 20 picked up should have them off tomorrow.

50.00 cash picked up

Make offer

some ones gotta want these for 300.00 picked up.

Seriously cheap just offer and get it out of shop

If this were the case I believe a lot less mustangs would be purchased.

I have an integra type r brake setup for sale. Includes calipers with 25k miles on them, in good condition. Setup comes with brand new brembo rotors, and pbr street pads. This setup will bolt onto an itr or can be used on a 4x100 car like a ef, eg,ek for around 50.00 worth of machine work. Only thing needed is calipers need new boots for for the slide pins because my old car needed some in a pinch and these will used any standard Honda boot or can be had thru napa in a seal kit that is only a few dollars. I am asking 100 picked up or best offer for the entire setup the pads and rotors alone were twice what I am asking. Just cleaning out the shop and no longer have a Honda my loss is your gain. http://i1163.photobucket.com/albums/q554/Drew2o2/IMAG0067.jpg http://i1163.photobucket.com/albums/q554/Drew2o2/IMAG0069.jpg http://i1163.photobucket.com/albums/q554/Drew2o2/IMAG0071.jpg