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Welded diff for street traction? Unintentional drifting problem...


zeitgeist57

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This morning, I was taking Cleetus to work (Passat is on jackstands in the garage awaiting me to install new control arms). It showered last night in UA, and as I was taking the SB onramp to 315 by Riverside Hospital I nearly bought it. I was going along fine, giving it a bit of gas as I rounded the turn, and it ever so slightly started sliding...which I didn't notice until the sudden rotation of the rear end!!! I've been driving 2WD trucks in the rain/winter for awhile now, but the Ford broke free in spectacular fashion and I am now worried about it's driveability in the winter...

 

With it's 133" wheelbase (long) and dinky, disposable 215-series 15" tires, can I get away with welding the rear differential to at least ensure I've got 2WD instead of 1WD? I'm not worried about excessive tire wear on the inside tire around every turn, because I don't drive it that much, and tires are relatively cheap (as opposed to Cleetus III's 20" tires).

 

FWIW, I instantly corrected by turning into the turn and lifting off the gas slightly, which brought the rear end back quickly. The SUV mom behind me gave a large berth after that little asphalt dance though...:lol:

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If you weld the rear diff, every time you turn the inside tire will be trying to push the vehicle to go straight. (which is why it wears out so fast) With the one tire trying to push the vehicle straight, every time you try to round a turn on a dry road under acceleration you will feel the vehicle getting out of shape (squirrely like) When you do the same action on a wet of mildly snowy road it will push the back of the vehicle around the front almost instantly just it did to you this morning.
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CRAZY TALK

 

Hate to admit that I didn't think of that one...however, the Futura's on the truck now still have a lot of tread left...

 

Pep Boy Futuras cost me my '96 Formula as a result of a hydroplane in standing rain that caused it to spin out of control into a concrete wall......

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If you weld the rear diff, every time you turn the inside tire will be trying to push the vehicle to go straight. (which is why it wears out so fast) With the one tire trying to push the vehicle straight, every time you try to round a turn on a dry road under acceleration you will feel the vehicle getting out of shape (squirrely like) When you do the same action on a wet of mildly snowy road it will push the back of the vehicle around the front almost instantly just it did to you this morning.

 

I fully understand the physics of open-diff-for-different-tire-speeds-radius-of-a-turn, but even with a little slip won't it be far easier to modulate when both tires have traction?

 

Plus, with 250+torques to two wheels instead of one, I would think the rear tires have a better hope for maintaining traction. This thing easily does a one wheel burnout on dry roads when I'm trying to turn onto a busy road.

 

I guess I'm weighing the option of a little bit of known slip and tire wear for more overall traction...

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I fully understand the physics of open-diff-for-different-tire-speeds-radius-of-a-turn, but even with a little slip won't it be far easier to modulate when both tires have traction?

 

Plus, with 250+torques to two wheels instead of one, I would think the rear tires have a better hope for maintaining traction. This thing easily does a one wheel burnout on dry roads when I'm trying to turn onto a busy road.

 

I guess I'm weighing the option of a little bit of known slip and tire wear for more overall traction...

 

Without a doubt a good posi unit would be beneficial. If I am mistaken I do apologize, but I thought you were thinking about welding the spider gears which would lock the rear tires together like a spool.

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A spool or welded diff will absolutely affect the handling in a negative way (as mentioned above). There are probably some drag guys with spools around that would let you drive their car. You can really tell a difference. Hell, it's even harder to push them around in the pits unless you're going dead straight.

 

The way I look at it, if you're doing this for traction you certainly don't want to make your "slip" happen at the tire. You can probably get a stock traction-lock used for cheap. Sure you'll have to have the gears set up, but it's probably well worth it. You could also spend a little more for a Lock-Rite and not have to set the gears up. Those have kind of a clunky release/lockup and can affect handling and tire wear a bit but not nearly as bad as a spool or welded spiders.

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Without a doubt a good posi unit would be beneficial. If I am mistaken I do apologize, but I thought you were thinking about welding the spider gears which would lock the rear tires together like a spool.

 

I read it that way too. Definitely agreed that a proper diff is almost always better.

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Here are some typical eBay finds:

 

31 spline factory trac-lock (used). There are several like this around $100.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traction-loc-31-spline-8-8-Ford-Mustang-Explorer-F150-posi-/280899536150?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4166eac516&vxp=mtr

 

Another OEM trac-lock but with bearings and 4.10 gears included for ~$225. I assume you'd still have to set them up, but maybe not?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-8-FORD-4-10-410-TRAC-LOC-POSI-UNIT-GEARS-MUSTANG-F150-/271003536789?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1911cd95&vxp=mtr

 

31 spline used lock right for early 8.8 (don't recall what year your truck is. Richmond has a nice fitment chart on their website you could check. $220 actually seems a bit high, but you get the idea.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lock-Right-Locker-1821-for-Ford-8-8-inch-31-tooth-spline-3-4-inch-shaft-/190693794423?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c663c6277&vxp=mtr

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Also, it occured to me that the issue describe was during a turn. So even if you did go with a nice posi unit it wold likely be disengaged at those times anyway and that's where a tire upgrade would probably have more benefit. A posi would still help alot when you're not turning though, like taking off from a stop, etc.
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i've been driving v-8 rwd vehicles in the winter since getting my license. From my expierience, having both rear wheels driving the vehicle is a mixed blessing. It helps you alot to get started at a stop sign or intersection but on the highway hitting a patch of ice on a limited slip/spool is going to bring the ass around quicker than anything.

On the other hand, kit is a pain in the ass trying to get 1 wheel to get you going from a stop in heavy snow, but on the highway when you hit a patch of ice, the drive wheel will break traction and the left/dead one will help to keep the rear strieght.

 

if the truck already has a limited slip and you weld it up, you will make it worse.

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