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my dyno results - i need to get this a/f ratio in check


natedogg624

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99 R6

dynojet kit installed, yes i know many of you have had much success with this kit. but there are many comparisons that show it sucks for R6's (does not mean its bad for your bike--just my model).

anyways, i dont have the money as of now to buy a better jet kit such as ivans or factory pro so i just have to make due with what i got.

first ill check for vacuum leaks, probably replace the vacuum hoses anyways and boots too if they dont look good.

second, there is a restrictor that goes in my main air jet that i will take out (more air), ill probably also lower the needle a notch (raise the clip position)-less fuel, check float heights (possibly raise the floats 1mm) and im certain i need new mains but where can i order JUST the mains?

o in case you were wondering, in order of changes - remove main air jet/mains/needle/float height

does this sound like a plan or do you have alternate ideas. please keep your opinions of dynojet kits to yourself as i know for a lot of you they worked wonders, and no its not the bike.

Edited by natedogg624
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Air density. Cold air has more molecules in it per units of fuel metered. And vice versa. So the ratio in cold air is more air per fuel, which is lean. And warm air is less air per fuel, which is rich. The carburetor won't vary the flow velocity and volume to compensate.

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i know. which is why i said its only going to get worse as it gets warmer.

just as you and apparently flounder said the warmer it gets the less air, which means that its only going to get richer.

if its already extremely rich now QED its only going to richer.

i already stated that, not sure where the confusion is...

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You are right. I answered at work before leaving. I didn't think that through completely.

Those dips in the HP curve have to go away, if possible. Curious, what type of exhaust and can does it have?

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anyone ever removed the main air jet restrictor and had positive results?

theoretically that would lean it out at WOT... or should i just leave that in and mess with the mains and needle and float heights?

also anyone figured out an efficient way of changing settings without it taking more than an hour of time? getting the carbs off to change settings and back on again?

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