Tractor Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 I'm thinking of building a 4x4 rock crawler looking vehicle and am going over engine options. I currently have a pre `86 350. Its all original and from a `78 blazer. It runs, but if I use it, its getting at least a real good cleaning, painted, and a complete gasket and seal set. Worst case it gets rebuilt and if I go that route the goal would be a decent power increase. I'm also thinking of going with a more modern engine such as the `97 and newer gen III small blocks. I have two reasons for doing this, 1) It would hopefully run better when it gets wet (ie no more distributor) 2) Also hoping its the type of engine I could make completely submersible by adding a snorkel and maybe plugging or adding hose length to a few other things. Reason is sometimes you end up in a mud hole thats simply to deep and thats a sad reason to blow an engine. I'd like to be able to back up and get out of trouble. Its been awhile since I've paid a lot of attention to engine technologies, I'm guess all I'd have to do in order to run one of those engines is get the complete engine plus the wiring harness and computer. Is there a minimum amount of sensors they need to run well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboNova Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 No brainer for the prices, go with a gen3 ls motor. you can pick 5.3 motors pretty much complete less a couple accessories for 300-400 bucks. Most of them dont need shit to be comparable to most stock cammed/intake pre 86 sbc You can either modify the factory harness which would be cheapest or you can just buy a standalone brand new harness for 350.00, then just buy a 411 pcm for 65 bucks and you are in business. Im convinced that I could do a 5.3 motor swap in about anything for less than 1000.00 doing some cleanup and making it look good. And all you need is a bushing spacer to run your old th400 or th350 trans converter to the ls stuff. Really can be done cheap and have driveability and be better to tune on. this is for less than 2000.00 bucks and all you need is a tune and some odds and ends and you would have a nice running 5.3 or add about 2-300 more and have a nice running 6.0 5.3------------ 350.00 pcm----------- 65.00 harness new--350.00 alt-------------65.00 starter--------65.00 maf----------- 65.00 ls1 intake-----45.00 valve springs--100.00 cam----------- 200.00 gaskets------ 100.00 injectors----- 200.00 fuel pump--- 100.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboNova Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 I know im leaving some stuff out on the above list but you could leave the truck intake and fuel injectors on it and modify the truck harness, but the accessories and clean the motor up maybe replacing a couple gaskets into any old car/truck and get the perk or fuel injected newer engine for proly 800-1000 bucks and just get a mail order tune or better yet one of dynotunes bench tunes for something that simple to turn off vats and some bs, and maybe add some timing and what not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboNova Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 if it measures to fit the compartment all you got to do is fab some mounts or if you arent able to a chassis shop could do it cheap. you can use the truck manifolds as well in most cases and just make an exhaust, the engines are just so plentiful and cheap. If I ever build another car, it will be one of those how cheap can I build it deals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractor Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Is there something to modding the harness from the donor vehicle? I have a hard time spending money on a new custom wiring harness when in the worst case scenario I could just make my own. Would it actually need tuning? I'm looking to go 5mph tops on the trails and don't need much with 4.88 gears and at least one transfer case. Idling good and starting very easy are much more important than power. The only time HP will come into play is during rain when I gotta spin the tires clean to continue climbing a hill, but at this point it will have 38" boggers on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractor Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 I'm building the whole thing from scratch so I'm not concerned about fitment. I just finished measuring a bunch of things on my old mudder to get a baseline for the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractor Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Also this vehicle won't have any need for gauges other than the mechanical stuff, ie temp, oil pressure, tach, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Bastard Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 any thoughts for a diesel? I understand they do well under water as long as they get air in the intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractor Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 I would go that route except I can't think of an easy and cheap to obtain diesel engine that's also light weight. I already have the military truck if I want to trail ride something heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copperhead Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 any thoughts for a diesel? I understand they do well under water as long as they get air in the intake. The traditional truck based cummins/powersuck/duramax are all too big and heavy and expensive for what he is trying to do. We really couldn't come up with any others that would be common enough to be a good option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Bastard Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 i was thinking an older diesel motor, kind of like the 6.2 that came in 80's blazers and suburbans, but it would be heavy and i didnt know weight would be a concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractor Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Keeping weight down will be good where possible. The 6.2 is maybe 200-300lbs more than a small block which isn't terrible. Diesel also has the problem on trails of not being able to spin tires fast enough at times. Old mudder, 5,700lbs New design calculating in under 3,000lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 TurboNova already posted pretty much what I would've, I'd say he's right on the money. LS motors are so easy with a little know-how and tweaking the computer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboNova Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 well, you would need a mail order tune at least to turn off vats and the stuff you are not using on your engine, you can get one for 100 or less unless you know someone with credits to hook it up for free since you dont need any tuning really. The harness you can do yourself there is just a shit ton of wires to remove, the techrods harness I used is real nice. everywhere wire is brand new and so are the connectors, the color of wires match the factory diagrams. All you have to do is hook up like 6 wires to your car and plug in the pcm then you are golden. Things can be done very very cheap or you can add 3-500 id say and make things look good and have some new stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractor Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Sounds like the gen 3 engines are the way to go. Is there any model car/truck I should avoid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractor Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Thanks for the info so far, anyone wanna help put together a basic junk yard list? Especially those little things that get forgotten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Sounds like the gen 3 engines are the way to go. Is there any model car/truck I should avoid? They are all compatible, but the LS4 out of the FWD cars should be avoided, and anything made of aluminum will be more expensive. The 5.3L (LM7) and 6.0L (LQ4,LQ9) are the best bang for your buck with the 6.0L block giving you some more potential. The L33 Aluminum 5.3L that came in a few SUVs and SSRs is a great engine but it is more expensive. A lot of it has to do with how you want to aproach it, if you are going to leave the shortblock stock, because when you start playing with the bottom end there is lots of ways to go. and I'd leave the 4.8L engines alone unless you are going to build the short block, the block is the same as a 5.3L but the rotating assembly is useless and the engine is a dog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboNova Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Yup what Scott said, 5.3 aluminum headed truck motor (lm7) goto car part.com and start searching they are everywhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skinner Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 I would go that route except I can't think of an easy and cheap to obtain diesel engine that's also light weight. I already have the military truck if I want to trail ride something heavy. not sure of the cost but a TDI out of a wrecked VW would work just not sure on the cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboNova Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 not sure of the cost but a TDI out of a wrecked VW would work just not sure on the cost. that thing would have no power, unless you put a bigger turbo on it and management would suck bad. The only way you could run a vw tdi would be the older ALH engine code one, would be a sweet approach but way underpowered in my opinion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bruh Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 use a 4bt cummins motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skinner Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 that thing would have no power, unless you put a bigger turbo on it and management would suck bad. The only way you could run a vw tdi would be the older ALH engine code one, would be a sweet approach but way underpowered in my opinion If it can push this around http://www.eastcoastrover.com/NAS337/Final.jpg he shouldn't have a issue. also will want torque not HP with his gearing and depending on the t-case or t-cases he should be ok. Again will come down to the cost of things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboNova Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 true, any pics of engine ^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skinner Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 true, any pics of engine ^ build/conversion page http://www.eastcoastrover.com/NAS337.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboNova Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 thats a landrover 300tdi... big difference from a vw tdi, i dont think that tank would be served well by any vw tdi unless it was the v10 used in the touareg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.