10phone2 Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 I should have posted this awhile ago, but since I am finally making progress I figured I may as well. A quick background on the car. I bought it for $300 in Thorntown, Indiana with a cracked radiator. Replaced it in the guys front yard and then drove it daily for almost a year until it pooped a head gasket. We didn't have alot of money to blow on a car when we moved here, so I figured I should grab something I know how to work on. Basics about the car: It comes with 0 horsepower due the 4m engine and weights 2400 pounds fully loaded from the factory. I plan on keep the car looking dead stock since I can't stand it when shitheads destroy old imports trying to be the drifter hellaflush fan boys. I will have the rear rims widened and make sure I can still run the stock hub caps. The car is completely gutted and I will put enough interior so it looks stock and doesn't have the fully gutted look when you walk by. I will keep the car close to stock height so it keeps the grandpa flavor. Here's an into pic: http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32%20work/mx32004.jpg This is not my car, but how the front looks like and notice the raging stock hub caps: http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32%20work/mx32.jpg The car sat for a long time due to not having the time and having the necessary tools to get work done. The body is 95% good but there were a few areas that sucked ass: Driver shock tower(notice the almost 30 degree tilt): http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32%20work/mx32006.jpg Passenger shock tower: http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32%20work/mx32005.jpg Engine and trans gone: http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32%20work/mx32001-1.jpg After changing my mind between 5m block with a 7m head, 1uz, or rebuild the 4m... I stumbled on a great deal of a stock N/A 2jz engine and auto trans from a sc300. http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32%20work/mx32002.jpg http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32011.jpg The plans for the transmission are to keep it simple: suprastick controller to adjust shift points, valve body mods to firm things up, and higher stall I assembled a MS-II to control the engine. I plan are turbo with 20-30 psi(for now) running on e85 through the 1600cc injectors and dual bosch fuel pumps from 90's volvo's. I accepted the fact that there was too much rusted metal on the shock towers and trunk area so I went to work with the plasma cutter: http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32008.jpg Since the shock towers are bye bye, I will do coilovers shocks on the rear mounted to a cross bar on the frame. I will retain the stock rear end so I can modify it and if I screw things up I am not in deep financially. I ordered some DOM tubing/end links from QS, watched youtube welding videos, and fabbed up 4 arms for the 4 link in the car: http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32007.jpg More progress removing metal: http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32010.jpg http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32013.jpg I decided to say fuck it and do my own mini-tubs since I don't want to waste time dicking around with semi-rusted metal. More pics of progress coming soon. Note: Yes I know the initial cuts to remove metal are wavy, I get the area out and then go back to clean it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossle Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Love the attitude towards the project. Way to go "against the grain". Looks neat as hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Interesting, Could be cool as hell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ross Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 I ordered some DOM tubing/end links from QS, watched youtube welding videos, and fabbed up 4 arms for the 4 link in the car: http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32007.jpg From what I can see in this pic, I would advise you not to drive it. There are several people on this forum with a broad range of welding experience that would be more than happy to help someone out if they ask for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10phone2 Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 ross, I appreciate the feedback and will keep that in mind. What is it in the pic that raises concern? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Gump 9 Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 ross, I appreciate the feedback and will keep that in mind. What is it in the pic that raises concern? The freaking welds!! Did you weld with a potato? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10phone2 Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 no kidding, you don't say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Yes they are not good, they would be ok for exhaust but something that is literally life and death if it breaks it's not ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10phone2 Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 I agree you folks are right. I will at the end more than likely use them for mock up, and take the measurements to a shop for the final ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc1647545523 Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Jesse, you've made some interesting choices and direction changes since your first plans, but it's all good. I look forward to see and hear of your progress with this car. :thumbup: I remember that one of your original goals for the rebuild was weight reduction, but that was back when you were going with the 5m block. Now that you have 2jz power, are you still planning weight reduction? I'm curious (and ignorant) how much weight reduction you can do on one of these cars while keeping the interior looking stock. Will you need many interior parts in the process, and if so, have you found good sources? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10phone2 Posted September 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2012 Yes I still plan on weight reduction by just doing the simple stuff. I don't want to have to run assloads of boost in order to enjoy the car plus the stuff I am already taking out was having issues. It's not like there is a niche market for great condition Cressida's to make money off of. The heater sounded like an angry vibrator when on and still there was no heat. For weight reduction, I would guess anywhere from 100-300 pounds pretty easily. As you can barely see in the pic, the car will not have anything behind the dash. A/C and heating assembly are removed, any interior lighting outside the speedometer/rpm will be gone, I already got ride of all sound deadening material in the car, and I still have to weld up any holes on the firewall since all the padding is now gone. I will snap a pic of the dash, but it is basically a plastic shell that weighs next to nothing from the factory and the center counsel is made of plastic also. I would guess I have lost 10-20 pounds just by switching to aluminum bolts that are also shorter. Toyota I'm guessing mass produced a few sizes of bolts and used them regardless if they were 1/4 to 1/2 inch too long. The factory seats are mechanical and don't weigh enough to justify a racing seat. So I can keep the stock seats, dash, center counsel, carpet, and still look somewhat stock when people peek in. Back in my hometown, if your car was fully gutted, you were automatically under suspicion for driving a stolen vehicle(I'm not joking). http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32.jpg For any part source for interior parts that I may end up needed because I break something, there are a decent number of mx32's in Arizona, California, and Washington area that get parted out on the toyota cressida forums or craigslist. What is interesting is how heavy the stock bumpers are. The front and back weight about the same. Just by fabbing up to old school vw blade bumpers could get it from 80ish down to 15 pounds tops. http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32015.jpg What is nice is alot of parts swap between supra, ae86, and cressida's. I may even be able to run ae86 spindles since they are slightly lighter and use mx73 cressida brakes for an easy upgrade. I may even be able to use a manual rack out of a tercel to get rid of my power steering setup, but I could be dead wrong. Another "research" topic is seeing if any of the toyota trucks had a non-adjustable steering column since mine is adjustable and it weighs alot more than I thought. In the interior pic, you can tell how much room it takes. Enough of my rambling, I have to get in the garage and do some thinking about the rear wheel wells. Thanks everyone for the replys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted September 8, 2012 Report Share Posted September 8, 2012 yes, please don't attempt to drive on those welds. just looking at the metal its too cold and there is not much if an penetration. lol, penetration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10phone2 Posted September 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 I still have enough DOM tubing left over and the end links are not that much. I also got the measurements body using wood, jack stands, angle finder, and various suspension heights to see what works. http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32018.jpg There hasn't been any updates because my 3 year old decided to hijack the camera and take 200-300 pictures in 2 days http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32016.jpg I have the driver side 90% cut off except for the arch behind the back seat. I decided to do the rear end sheet metal work mainly that I can get better at welding and dealing with sheet metal so I don't create another cluster fuck http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32019.jpg I used sheets of paper from my daughters drawing book so that I can find the wheel arch on the fender and the base inside the trunk. I will then transfer the pattern to card board for fitment and go from there. http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32017.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbracing81 Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 I would be lost. I commend you for your efforts and bravery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedfocus1647545489 Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 There hasn't been any updates because my 3 year old decided to hijack the camera and take 200-300 pictures in 2 days http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32016.jpg LOL at dog so close up it makes your eye itchy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10phone2 Posted September 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 I would be lost. I commend you for your efforts and bravery. thanks for the kind words. In all honesty, so far I have shown that I can take things apart and cut things up. The next week will for me, be a deciding factor as to how things turn out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o0n8 Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 always nice to see something different. look forward to seeing the build progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FourString Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 Regardless of how the welds look, you are taking initiative and diving right in. Props to you for that. Cool car choice too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10phone2 Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 I haven't spent as much time as the car lately due to other ventures, but nothing major lately except fucking with cardboard templates over and over: http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32020_zps43a7c986.jpg I literally have an endless supply of card board boxes for mock up due to my wife working in retail. After getting things pretty close, I transferred the pattern over to regular poster board to finalize where the tubs will meet the body http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32021_zps985be63d.jpg I work ten hours on Sunday/Monday, so hopefully I can get the paint removed on the bodies inner fender where the wheel tub will weld to and buy sheet metal either monday or tuesday. Yes I know the poster board is wavey. I will use a 2x4 to the desired length to run underneath the poster board at a 90 degree angle to make sure I am level and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOZZER Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 Great effort. You have to learn some how. Can't wait to see the finished product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10phone2 Posted September 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 and my wife can't wait to get it out of the garage. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10phone2 Posted September 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2012 Still moving forward little by little. I picked up sheet metal from Matt @ Spear Mechanical and I will highly recommend them. Just from talking to Matt over the phone for a few minutes, it was obvious he probably forgets more about metal types/fabrication then what I will ever know and is a stand up guy. The original plan was to rivet the metal to my wood cutout and then bend the metal over the corners. http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32022.jpg Within 5 minutes I was getting it to shape decent and then the wood split into two pieces due to the metal wanting to curve leaving me at square one. I had some luck getting the metal to bend with a hammer over a 2x4 to get the basic shape, but the wood gives away after awhile. After wondering around Lowe's for an hour looking for something with a metal L that will stand up to abuse, I decided to go for box tubing. I cut off two inches and welded it to the top of the bar so that way I can pound the sheet metal to go around the corner and flatten out bumps at the same time. So far things are moving in the right direction, but I still have alot to get done. http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc510/chrisj011/mx32023.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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