Toph6888 Posted April 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2015 Kind of silly point here to make sure you double check all your stuff, when we had our first nice day here in ohio I decided to take the mustang out and go for a drive with the new k member installed and noticed I wouldn't go into boost. I thought it was the blow off valve being stuck open and almost started to buy new springs ($30 a pop) and then I realized when I had taken the intercooler off for part of the install I didn't remember to put all the pipes back on. Luckily it was only driven like this a couple of miles. Check all your connections!!! Sold my cobra seats out of my mustang a couple weeks ago due to them being too high and just not very comfortable for what I am wanting to use the car for. Went back and forth on seats for a long time trying all that I could and decided to go with the corbeau A4 wides with a 1" shaved base. very comfortable and being 6'3" it kept me low enough to where a helmet is comfortable, they are a LOT lighter then the stock cobra seats, and they are tall enough on the back where my neck can't bend over the top of them like other shorter seats. after unboxing: Installed: I also bought a clutch pedal height adjuster from maximum motorsports. Lets you even out the pedal height with the brake pedal and you can adjust it all with the part and the adjustable firewall clutch adjuster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted April 12, 2015 Report Share Posted April 12, 2015 Seats look great! And bead roll that pipe!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 Worked on some more odds and ends this weekend. Started off rough by trying to fix my belt tensioner on my drivers front seatbelt since it never retracted all that much. Followed the how to guides on how to put in more tension, but luck wasnt on my side as I didn't bust just one tensioner, not two, but three total tensioners (when I busted the original drivers one, I tried to use either of the rear belt tensioner springs since I removed the belts since I have no rear seat, and no luck). The bad luck continued as the hunt at the pick and pull only resulted in them having convertible mustangs, so damn. In the end I decided to get these since I don't use the car on the road too much with the WRX daily, so this will do for the time being for autox's, track days, and "daily" for now until I get to some yards with some stock belts I can get for cheap (only factory ones I could find online were $150+!!) Since it was nice out I took off my wipers and painted them up, as well as replacing the dryrotted old wipers (hadn't been changed since before the turbo, two years ago lol) and refilled the windshield washer fluid since that all evaporated off long ago Finally, I ordered some sheet aluminum online last week for my rear seat delete, so I got all of my templates mocked up. I decided to go with 16 gauge aluminum so it will be a little bit more rigid and solid when set up. I will be adding some light cotton padding to the tops and covering in some black suede I have sitting around, and I will attach the panels together and to the body with nut rivets and flat head allen bolts. Templates all made up: (yes I know there is a gap, I accounted for it). https://scontent-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/p600x600/10408627_10101681306730022_7829692697169402652_n.jpg?oh=02ade68815453bd0df11d4ac1a265af4&oe=55CEF216 I will take the aluminum wiht me to work where I have a good press to cut them to general dimensions, will trim with tin snips, and then will bend with our brake that we have in the back as well. Should hopefully be done in the next night or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted May 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 Been working a lot on the rear seat delete with the aluminum panels and made good headway. I'm about 80% done with them now. Started with my aluminum sheets, took my cardboard templates I made and got the basic shape cut out on the shear at work, then took them home and trimmed them up with tin snips. Then I marked where all my bends needed to be and took them back to work to put the bends in. Even being aluminum that 1/4" thickness really didn't want to bend that much but I got them there (well close enough that some light standing on them in the garage finished up the bending). Then I bought some rivet on Tnuts and figured out where I wanted all of those and spent two nights getting them fit, finding the bolt holes, drilling out panels in the aluminum and the back seat of the car and finally getting everything fit together. I am at about $120 in materials as it sits, and I am going to cover them in suede I got from a friend for free, so all in all it will be about a total of $140 with the padding/glue to put on the suede. It was kind of a pain in the ass, so if you don't need metal I would suggest just buying it and avoiding the hassle, but if you want a fun summer project this one was pretty rewarding (hint, take the front seats out to make your life that much easier. Here is the rear seat with all the t nuts put in it (3 on the speaker panel, two in the bottom corners, and 4 on the rear seat rail) Here are my panels all ready to go: I also put in my seat harnesses that are a "3" point, ie they bolt in 3 places but they still have the waist straps/shoulder straps through the seat And finally here is a better picture of the seat delete installed: Gonna be out of town next week for work, but I can at least drive it without hearing everything rumbling in the back so that will be fine for now. Maybe next weekend I will go ahead and work on getting them covered in the suede. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted May 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 Touched up a bit of the exhaust today, took the mustang to work to put it on the lift so that I could cut off the stock cobra IRS mufflers and put on some flanged glasspacks. For cheap, I felt they worked out pretty well, will have to see how they last. so long as they last for a year or so with how cheap they are it wouldn't be a big deal to have to replace them lol. Overall driving around with them its just a touch louder, nothing crazy different. But thats fine, the main reason I did it was to help relieve back pressure from the turbo outlet. At idle, maybe just a bit lower, no real difference. But with the two step, it sounds pretty wicked in person. I got the best video I could with my phone, but it can only do so much. Taking the car to Norwalk drag strip in Ohio (more commonly known as Summit Motorsports Park) and hoping to have a lot better turn out with it compared to last year with the old cam where I just couldn't get a good 60' time (previous best was 2.4s, even with the 2step). Stock cam works much better with the turbo I have, so hoping to run some good times and mainly just have a good time since my dad will be coming out too. He hasn't had a chance to really ride in the car yet where we could really get on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted June 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 A bit of catch up on putting the cobra tank into the mustang: Completed previously: Adapter plate from ON3 to connect V6/GT fuel level sender to cobra hat: Then when I went to put it on the sender I had had a loose connection for the wire, so I had to resolder it onto the board: Finally got everything aligned how I wanted it with the twin 340lph pumps with 12 gauge wiring. These pumps were a decent bit taller then the stock cobra pumps so it was a lot of fitting to get enough clearance from the bottom of the tank to the pump inlet, and then getting the wires/hoses set up on top to have everything fit. The cobra tank I have is a new piece from ON3 Performance, so I'm not sure if its just not quite as tall but I had to cut off the bottom of the pump hat that held the pumps in place and then brace the pumps so I could have 1/8"-1/4" clearance between the bottom of my tank and the inlet to the pumps. Then to get around the bafflers in the tank, I had to bend the fuel level sender arm to clear. I paid close attention to the height by setting it on a table, measuring the distance between the float and the table before bending, made my bend for my clearance of the baffle, then bent the float back down to where it would have the same "lowest position" height from the table (if that description doesn't make sense and you have a question about it, let me know). I plan to fill it with about 3-4 gallons of fuel, and then reset my pin on my dash gauge to show 1/4 tank at that point, I don't really care if the gauge is right after that, I just need to know when I only have 3-4 gallons left. Then I didn't take pictures. I painted the tank so as to avoid it rusting in the future, we dropped the stock tank, and I was able to get my vent cans/seals out easily and transfer over all of the vent lines without issue. Dat IRS: Assembled tank: Finally I set up my bracket for my dual FPDM's. Still need to set up the wiring, but I just used some #10-24 3" long screws and then some nuts to set everything in place so it has enough ventilation. Fits perfectly in the stock location. Thats as far as I got last night because we had to spend a bunch of time emptying the stock tank (it had 10+ gallons of fuel in it, and I only had one 5 gallon can, so we kept filling it and then filling mine, my gf's and my buddies car with gas, which just so happened to all have been filled recently lol). I hope to get the basic wiring layed out and physical tank up into the car on wednesday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted July 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Finally finished pretty much all of the wiring for the dual FPDM conversion. Only thing left to do is to put on one deutsch connector for the second pump by the tank and then lift the tank up into place. I need to find the crimping tool for it though, should be able to find one at work today. Getting wiring set up: Nest of wires: All tucked together and ready to go: Tank side all ready to go (minus the one connector): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 I like that light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted July 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 I like that light. Lol I thought someone might comment on it. Its a black diamond camping light, available at pretty much any outdoor store for around $30. Only flaw is its a AA battery light, not a rechargeable one. Works great outdoors camping though. http://www.rei.com/product/890117/black-diamond-voyager-lantern-2014-closeout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImUrOBGYN Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Nice work, man. I apologize if it was covered earlier, but what was the reason for the seat delete? Did you happen to weigh the rear seat, etc when you removed it and how much is all that aluminum you replaced it with weigh? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patterson Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Looking good. Something about that IRS pic gives me the Meat Sweats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted July 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Nice work, man. I apologize if it was covered earlier, but what was the reason for the seat delete? Did you happen to weigh the rear seat, etc when you removed it and how much is all that aluminum you replaced it with weigh? Thanks. The reason I did the seat delete was mainly I didn't like the cobra front seats with how tall I am, so I wanted to get something that would sit a lot lower so I had room for my helmet. Originally I was only going to sell the fronts and get some seats that matched the rear seats, but the only seat I found in my price range that fit me didn't have the same pattern, so I ended up selling the rear seats with the fronts. I looked at other rear seat delete options, but a cheap OSB wood with carpet was $150, and aluminum was $300! So I looked online and found some gauge aluminum sheet for everything I needed for $100-120, and I got thicker stuff so it would have some strength to it (16 gauge, some people have done it with as little as 20-22 gauge). Also, for some racing tracks, you have to have a metal barrier between the driver and the trunk. I had a brake at work to bend it, so I spent an evening making up the templates, cut it out, bought some fasteners and got it all in. I also have some alcantara to wrap it with whenever I get around to putting that in. In terms of weight: Cobra Stuff: Front Driver: 62lbs Front Passenger: 43lbs Rear seat bottom (foam): 11lbs Rear Seat back (steel frame with foam): 25.5lbs Rear Seat Belts: 5lbs Rear Head Rest: 5lbs I added: Front Seat/Track: 25lbs/9lbs = 34lbs total Passenger Seat/Track: 25lbs/9lbs = 34lbs total Rear Aluminum Seat: 10lbs 3point harness: 5lbs So I dropped about 70lbs, not a ton, but every bit counts on this car lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DKilbourne Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Makes up for the extra 120 lbs you added with the IRS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted July 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 Yah. When I got the IRS I also dropped the spare tire/jack bc it wouldn't fit the rear bc of the irs or the front bc of the 13" brakes, so the spare tire/jack also dropped another roughly 30lbs. So its still not light, but at least there is some savings. But still nothing compared to all the weight I added up front with the turbo exhaust tubing/turbo/merge pipe/downpipe/intercooler/intercooler piping, 13" brakes and cobra wheels. I probably have an extra 100-200lbs on the front end. the maximum motorsports K member kit helped a bit, but not anywhere as much as a UPR set up. Maybe 30-40lbs lighter with the MM stuff compared to stock. Shes still pretty heavy compared to stock form. Battery in the back helps to even some weight out, every bit helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImUrOBGYN Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 You managed the weight gain of the added IRS better than Ford did... It's all looking very good. Very impressive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted July 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Got the car fired up last night with the new fuel tank in it. Everything seemed to work out nice and the fuel pump duty cycle is way down, but still seems kinda high at 30-33% at idle. I changed the fuel filter again, so I'm not sure why its still so high (i've been told it should in theory be around 20% at idle) but its a lot better then what the other one I had was at with 50-55% duty cycle at idle lol. It was searching for spark and bouncing around on the spark source table so it was idling not super awesome but overall well. I probably knocked a sparkplug connector loose when I was fitting all my ac lines, so I will check all those tonight bc by the time I went to check them the engine was too hot for me to get my hand in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Got the tank finished up early last week and been driving the mustang around all weekend and got a couple datalogs and just beat on it since I have been fixing minor things for the past two months and havent driven it in a while. With the old fuel pump I was at 100% fuel duty cycle at ~4500rpms in 3rd and ~4000rpms in 4th running 10psi. With the new twin 340lph pumps I am now at ~62% duty cycle at 6000rpms in 3rd, haven't gotten a chance to see 4th because iwth my gearing top of 3rd is 90mph. Had some issues when I initially put the tune on with adjusted fuel pump voltage table and transfer function constants adjusted. I put the tune on I had originally with the stock values and it pretty much ran perfect. For some reason it didn't like any of those adjustments. Idle would surge up and down 100-200rpms, and then it would act like there was a vacuum leak whenever I opened the throttle by blipping up, then down, then up again. With the original tune all my fuel pressures are 40psi +/- 2psi the whole way through the graph, so tune is looking pretty solid. Started running 14psi and runs solid the whole way through. Excited to get back to a drag strip to see what kind of times it can put down now that it has the fuel the whole way through the rpm band. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted August 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 For those who don't know it, my radiator blew out at the plastic crimps during an autocross. Funny thing is, nothing was hot, and it wasn't during a run, it was about 5-10mins after it had been idling just cooling down. The damage: crimp side: It wasn't a big deal that I knew I needed a new radiator, and was planning on putting one in over the winter, however the not so cool part was it blowing 45 mins from home. Luckily someone who was there had a contact for a truck/trailer that offered to tow it home for $100, so lucked out there. So I set about looking into getting a new radiator. The only performance ones for the 99-04 years are for the GT's, which don't have the pressure cap on the radiator. I didn't have room for the coolant overflow tank designed for the GT's because of the turbo kit, but I found that the 94-95 5.0L had a very similar size and attachment structure as the 99-04, so I purchased one from american muscle. It is a 2" thick all aluminum triple core, with a core size 24" x 15", where the old was 25"x16.5"x1" thick. Comparison of old vs new: So I went ahead and got everything torn down. When I went to drain the radiator there was nothing in there, nothing in the block. When we first saw the radiator go (luckily hood was up so it was really obvious) the car ran for about 15-20 seconds afterwards. Gauge at the time was all OK at 180-190*F. Pretty sure the engine will be fine, fingers crossed. Ended up having to take off a lot more than I thought I would to get everything out: Next I tried mounting the radiator. DAMN. The mounts were 1.5" closer together on the 94/95 then the 2000. So hacked off the old mount with a grinder and then mocked up a new one out of 16 gauge stainless I had sitting around. Was deciding how I wanted it to go in, and decided to use my new rivnut gun that I got for christmas. Got two in on the top, gonna put two in on either ear of the mount. Pretty strong already and would probably be fine, but with the last two it will make it beyond strong enough to hold up that radiator. Bent up the top mounts and got it so the radiator is in pretty solid. However, I have about 1" of travel up and down that I can move the radiator. So I might go ahread and just make some new top mounts that angle down a bit to hold the radiator better with some grommets around the tabs. Lastly, there is no way my stock radiator fan is going to fit, which is a shame because its supposed to flow something like 3500cfm and is a dual speed. Because of the increased cooling capacity of the radiator I am hoping that a 16" flexalite slim fan that I will be getting from summit this weekend that flows 2500cfm will be able to cut it, and if not I will get some sheet aluminum and make a shroud. Only $20 on amazon for a piece of aluminum big enough, so wouldn't be a big deal. Might go ahead and do it right away, but will need to get the fan first so I can see what kind of clearance I have. From the bottom there is more room, but right now I only have a little over 2" between the top of the radiator and the dump pipe, and about 5" from the center of the radiator to the merge pipe. The fan I am looking at is 3-3/8" thick at the motor, and should be plenty thin at the outside rim, even with a 1/2"-1" shroud if I made one. Top of the dump pipe pretty close to the very top of the radiator, but room underneath it available pretty easy: Gonna try to get that all figured out during the next couple days and back together, hoping to be back driving it at the end of next weekend (gonna work on cleaning up some of the radiator support that got bent by the previous owner as well, so new crash absorbers, bumper, and headlight panel going in as well). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 1) AAA Gold membership is only 80$, and comes with 4 free tows up to 100 miles for the year (every DSM guy has one And you can call, buy, and use it immediatly. Food for though for the future... 2) Have a link to that radiator? May work perfect for what I am trying to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted August 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 1) AAA Gold membership is only 80$, and comes with 4 free tows up to 100 miles for the year (every DSM guy has one And you can call, buy, and use it immediatly. Food for though for the future... 2) Have a link to that radiator? May work perfect for what I am trying to do. Ya, Ive been meaning to get AAA, now that it hits home I will probably set it up before I take the mustang out again lol. For the radiator, link below. If you want to stop by sometime to measure it before hand to see if it will fit what you want, let me know, I'm over in dublin off of sawmill. Will be out this weekend, but could show it next week/weekend if you want to see it. Americanmuscle.com is a big mustang parts site, and from when I ordered it Monday it was here Wednesday night. Not too bad for free shipping. http://www.americanmuscle.com/sr-radiator-9495manual.html They also have a couple other styles if you flip through the different years. 96-04 mustangs didn't have the fill neck/pressure cap on the radiator, it was on the overflow bottle, but still used pegs as the mounting structure. The 94-95 had the peg set up and also has the fill neck/pressure cap on the radiator, but is 1" less wide and 1.5" shorter, but still 2" thick. The 79-93 mustang radiators use a different mounting structure, and have the fill neck/pressure cap on the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC K9 Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 1) AAA Gold membership is only 80$, and comes with 4 free tows up to 100 miles for the year (every DSM guy has one And you can call, buy, and use it immediatly. Food for though for the future... Quoted for Truth. I have that Gold membership card ready to roll! Have only used it once though, but I was sure glad I had it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 For the radiator, link below. If you want to stop by sometime to measure it before hand to see if it will fit what you want, let me know, I'm over in dublin off of sawmill. Will be out this weekend, but could show it next week/weekend if you want to see it. Americanmuscle.com is a big mustang parts site, and from when I ordered it Monday it was here Wednesday night. Not too bad for free shipping. . Thanks for the offer. I am in CLE though so swinging by wonf work! Can you give me the EXACT height of the core? Also does the top tube of the radiator flow water-or just a support? I may be able to notch it to fit my needs. 14x26' is my "perfect fit" for where I want it to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted August 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 Thanks for the offer. I am in CLE though so swinging by wonf work! Can you give me the EXACT height of the core? Also does the top tube of the radiator flow water-or just a support? I may be able to notch it to fit my needs. 14x26' is my "perfect fit" for where I want it to go. I'll have to take some external measurements. My core size alone is 24" x 15", but that is without the end tanks/mounts. all together it is probably closer to 28"x17" total size. Started work on my fan shroud last night for my new slim radiator fan. Total thickness will be between 1/2" and 3/4". I bent up the edges to be 1/2" with a bead roll, and then I will also put some vacuum line down all the edges to protect it from hurting the radiator. its only 20 gauge aluminum, but it still has a lot of rigidity with the bends at all the corners. I knew it would stiffen up, but I didn't realize this much lol. Still need to cut the center hole out for the fan, and then I will probably flare that edge as well to give a little bit more 3d support and help direct the air towards the fan. The shroud measures 20" x 16". My core size is 24"x15". The fan is a "16inch" fan, but the blades are only 15". Total core size area = 360sqin. The fan area is 176.6sqin, roughly 49% of the total core size. With the shroud, I now cover roughly 85% of the radiator area, so a big improvement. For those wondering, I couldn't do the full radiator because my cold side intercooler piping runs right up against the now thicker radiator, so I had to miss that part of the area due to clearance. It still has enough room between the piping and the radiator for air to flow and no contact, but not enough room for the 3/4" total thickness shroud. 20gauge aluminumm - $20 off of amazon for a 24"x36" piece (only needed about half of it for the shroud). Hit it till it fits! I just marked out all my lines, clamped it to some wood I had, and then just kept hitting the edge till I got the bend I wanted. All edges done: Figured out my placement of the fan on the car, marked it up and I will cut this out tonight/tomorrow What it will look like on the car: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted August 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 Getting further with my fan shroud, hopefully will finish it up after some family stuff tonight. Cut the hole out with a jig saw (woo new tool) and a metal blade, then smoothed it out with some dremmel tools. Also bent up the edge of it to add some 3d shape as well as help direct air flow to the fan blades. Added vacuum hose over the end of the double bend edges to add a little insulation. Finally, mounted up the fan using my rivnuts (god I love that tool). Here you can see the bent edge for the fan blades and directing the airflow: Gonna hopefully get all the brackets done tonight that way the system will be ready to bolt into the car. Gonna have to slightly rework the metal coolant lines, have about 1/2" to cut out and reweld on each one since the radiator isn't quite as wide as the stock radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dammit Charlie Posted August 29, 2015 Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 1) AAA Gold membership is only 80$, and comes with 4 free tows up to 100 miles for the year (every DSM guy has one And you can call, buy, and use it immediatly. Food for though for the future... 2) Have a link to that radiator? May work perfect for what I am trying to do. God damn isn't that the truth! I can't tell you how many times I had to help push them just outside of 42's driveway. I miss those years. Great build thread! I look forward to reading this every time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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