Winter storage

[Rocky31186]

Those that leave their nice cars parked for winter...

 

Do you do anything special for winter? Start it up every couple weeks, put it on jack stands to keep from flat spotting the tires, throw a battery tender on it?

[Green Bastard]

You could use wheel dolly's instead of jackstands if you like, makes it easier to push around if need be. Also some sta-bil in the gas tank wouldn't be a bad idea. Otherwise all you mentioned would only be good to do.

[Nickey4271647545519]

I just put some sta-bil in the tank and start ever 2 weeks or so. IMO theres no need to worry about flat spotting your radials. Bias-plys yes.

[Toph6888]

Modern tires don't need to be lifted due to the usage of synthetic polymers making up most of the rubber component in modern tires. Older tires should be lifted (say pre 1980?) bc they were mainly natural rubber which would develop the flat spots.

 

Stabilizer in the fuel is good, and maybe a battery charger that will keep the battery charged so it isn't dead when you go to restart it.

 

It's kind of a toss up about starting it every now and then, it helps the battery system stay charged, but all the heat developed can cause the air to condense and moisture to build in the engine/on the engine. If you let it cool in an open area it should be good though. Up to you, just one of those things I've seen on car shows and whatnot.

[Geeesammy]

If they flat spot which the likely won't, I've heard doing like 55mph for a few minutes heats them up enough and they return to correct form.

[Rocky31186]

I have seen numerous radial tires get flat spots in the tread. Infact at work we have a 2012 chevy quad cab truck that has been sitting in storage with 6 others since march.

 

Jump started it, sounded like shit from oil settling. And drove it back to the shop. Tires had flat spots in them from sitting, and road like dog shit. We had to replace all 4 tires to get it to drive smooth again.

[Rocky31186]

From tirerack....

 

Tire Flatspotting

 

Lea esta página en español

 

Do you ever feel a ride disturbance or shimmy during the first few miles of driving after your vehicle has been parked for a few days, weeks or months? Then, after you drive a couple of miles, the ride smoothes out and feels OK. This condition is often called flatspotting because it is used to describe the tire flatspots that can occur when a vehicle is parked.

 

Many heavy duty, high performance, high speed rated and racing tires have a memory because they continue to remember the position in which they were last parked after they begin to be driven on again. Unfortunately, their memory can become a problem when the tires experience big swings in ambient temperature, have been parked overnight in cold temperatures, or parked for an extended period of time...because it's a lack of use that can cause tires to flatspot.

 

As they roll, tires go from a relaxed state to a loaded state about 800 times every mile. This constant deflection generates heat that makes the tires more flexible. But once they are parked, the spot in contact with the ground (the tire's footprint) flattens as it is pressed against the road's flat surface as the tires cool. This is what generates flatspots. And until the tires "warm up" again, the flatspot on each tire can cause a ride disturbance that will be felt for the first few miles the next time the vehicle is driven.

 

Flatspotting can be temporary (the tire will round out as driving warms it up) or in the most severe cases, permanent (in which the tire's memory effectively destroys its ride quality). A flatspot's severity is often a function of the tire size, internal structure, load, ambient temperature and time.

 

Low aspect ratio tires have less sidewall flex due to their short sidewalls and much of their load carrying capacity is absorbed by the deflection of their wide footprints.

 

The tread compounds and firm, nylon reinforced internal constructions used on high performance and high speed rated tires are more susceptible to flatspotting.

 

Heavy loads and too little air pressure in the tires (underinflation) will allow them to deflect more where they come into contact with the ground. This allows even more deflection, increasing the severity of the flatspotting.

 

Cold ambient temperatures make rubber compounds stiffer, increasing their tendency to flatspot.

 

The longer tires remain stationary, the better they remember the position in which they were last parked. Tires on vehicles stored on the ground for many months can be permanently flatspotted.

 

Minimizing Flatspotting

 

While there is no way to completely avoid tire flatspotting, knowing what to expect under different conditions will help minimize its inconvenience.

 

NOTE: It is important to check and reset tire inflation pressures to those recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or owners manual when taking a vehicle out of storage.

 

Tire flatspotting would be most noticeable when beginning to drive a vehicle that has been stored incorrectly (with the weight of the vehicle pressing down through the tires to the ground). When storing a vehicle for more than a few weeks, it is best to drive the vehicle until it is thoroughly warmed up and then immediately put it up on "blocks" after arriving at the storage location. Doing this takes the load off of the tires completely. Not doing this on a vehicle that will be parked for a few months runs the risk of permanently flatspotting the tires.

 

Tire flatspotting may also be noticed when beginning to drive a vehicle that has not been driven for a few days, or during the colder winter months after the vehicle has been parked overnight. However, these types of flatspots will usually disappear during the first few miles of driving.

 

Usually during the day, the warmer ambient temperatures and more frequent vehicle use will not allow noticeable flatspots to form. However, anytime a vehicle goes in for ride-related services (tire rotation, rebalancing, or to diagnose ride disturbances), the vehicle should be driven for 5 to 10 miles immediately before being raised in the shop to make certain that temporary flatspots are not preventing the source of the ride complaint from being isolated and corrected.

 

And finally, tire flatspotting will also be noticed at the beginning of each session when attending a driver's school, track day or race. Whenever the car is returned to the paddock, the vehicle should immediately be lifted off of the ground to prevent flatspotting (this will also allow the car to feel more stable at the beginning of the next track session). This practice also allows debris to be cleaned off of the hot tires while they are inspected for any punctures and cuts. If you watch the professional race teams at an event, you'll see that they always remove the race tires immediately after stopping in the pits at the end of a session (if they plan to continue using the tires).

 

[Toph6888]

I used to work for Hankook tires and I had never heard of any issues with our tires of flat spotting that required replacements. What brand tires were they? Depending on what they were used for they will have different amounts of natural rubber in them, and the more natural rubber the more likely to flat spot. Personally I have never had any issues, but if it happens it happens.

 

So op sounds like its up to you, but I've never had an issue with my mustang.

[TTQ B4U]

I use a battery tender and call it a day. I drive the MS3 now and then to keep her going and burn up the gas inside the tank. I usually park it like now with about 1/2 tank then add 1/2 tank of good stuff come spring.

[Doc1647545523]

Sta-bil in the tank and battery tender for sure.

 

IMHO they still need to be driven for at least 20 minutes every 3-4 weeks to minimize problems.

[POS VETT]

Four of mine hibernate 6-7 months out of a year. I prepare them using these steps:

 

- Tanks are full (to minimize moisture condensation)

- Batteries are hooked up to float chargers (all of them happen to be Battery Tender)

- Parking brake disengaged and car is in gear

 

Optional steps:

 

- Wash

- Wax

- One car gets to park on rubber pads but flat spot is never permanent anyway.

 

I don't use StaBil, not even for my lawn mower which sits unused even longer (8-9 months). Never have any problem; everything starts right up when it's time.

 

None is ever started for the duration of hibernation period; moisture in oil doesn't evaporate until the engine runs for about 10 miles at highway speed at operating temperature, so I don't bother starting & letting it run for any amount of time.

Edited December 31, 2012 by POS VETT

[Crossle]

Battery tender and car cover. This winter is different due to changing some things so it's on stands.

[Mr. Jones]

You storing the Jeep for the winter?

[TTQ B4U]

You storing the Jeep for the winter?

 

http://www.pbase.com/timothylauro/image/148090238/original.jpg Too much power...... :masturboy:

[Cordell]

I use some Stabil and a float charger (C-Tek). I've never had any issues with flatspotting. On small engines and my ATVs I would use some fogging spray to lube the top end but have never done that on my cars. Basically I make sure the Camaro is clean, add Stabil at the gas station before fill-up to ensure mixing and that it gets through the system on the way home. Parking with charger on that I rotate between my bike and Camaro because I'm too cheap to buy a second one. I start it about once a month basically to circulate the trans fluid and get things warm.

 

It's my opinion that storing a car is not great for it, they are meant to be driven. However I won't drive a motorcycle when its cold or my Camaro when there's salt and/or snow/ice on the roads. So I choose to park them simply to avoid other damage or inconvenience.

[TurboRust]

furthermore on flat spotting tires, they do, even in a few hours time.. if we're diagnosing with the road force balancer it will detect cold tires that have even sat for a few hours...first step is to go drive the car and warm them up

[Draco-REX]

Sta-bil, full tank of gas, and a Battery Tender.

 

When it comes time to start the car again, I just turn the key to ON for a couple seconds to let the fuel system prime, then it starts like I drove it the day before.

 

Flatspotting isn't an issue, the tire s even out after jsut a little driving. Hell, the snow tires on my BRZ flatspot while I'm at work. From what I understand, some tires use nylon belts that don't like the cold (not sure why they're used on snow tires, but ehh).

[Xyster101]

Some mixed opinions here. From lots of research on various sites I do this:

 

-Sta-ble in the fuel tank and run it for 5 min, then pull EFI to rid pressure in system

-75-100% gas. More gas = less water condensation in tank

-Jack stands/block/foam pads to reduce flat spots. Important on soft tires

-Pull plugs and put oil (seafoam) inside cylinders to reduce rust build up on cylinder walls

-Battery should be brought in somewhere over 40 degrees and either tender or charged every month

-Steel wool in openings for mice. Exhaust, air vents, etc.

-Wash and car cover

-Don't apply the parking brake

-Manuel cars should be blocked and parked in N

 

DON"T START THE CAR FOR 5-10 MIN! The worst thing you can do to an engine is start it after it sits for a while. There is no oil the first few cranks and that is when the most engine wear occurs.

 

When spring comes:

change the oil + filter

Pull plugs and oil again

pull the EFI fuse crank a few times without starting to get the oil pumped through. Keep cranking until the idiot light goes off or oil pressure is high

Replace fuse and start.

Drive easy to use up old gas and fill with fresh.

If it was more then 6-8 months the fuel should be drained and replaced before starting.

[Cordell]

Some mixed opinions here. From lots of research on various sites I do this:

 

-Sta-ble in the fuel tank and run it for 5 min, then pull EFI to rid pressure in system

-75-100% gas. More gas = less water condensation in tank

-Jack stands/block/foam pads to reduce flat spots. Important on soft tires

-Pull plugs and put oil (seafoam) inside cylinders to reduce rust build up on cylinder walls Ever heard of fogging oil? If you insist on this step it's much simpler.

-Battery should be brought in somewhere over 40 degrees and either tender or charged every month

-Steel wool in openings for mice. Exhaust, air vents, etc.

-Wash and car cover

-Don't apply the parking brake

-Manuel cars should be blocked and parked in N

 

DON"T START THE CAR FOR 5-10 MIN! The worst thing you can do to an engine is start it after it sits for a while. There is no oil the first few cranks and that is when the most engine wear occurs.When spring comes:

change the oil + filter

Pull plugs and oil again

pull the EFI fuse crank a few times without starting to get the oil pumped through. Keep cranking until the idiot light goes off or oil pressure is high

Replace fuse and start. Okay I agree that this is when most wear occurs, but cranking it or starting it will pump oil through the engine.

Drive easy to use up old gas and fill with fresh.

If it was more then 6-8 months the fuel should be drained and replaced before starting.This contradicts the use of Stabil, especially when Stabil says fresh for a year.

 

It doesn't matter what you do letting a car sit is not good for it. Tires are not meant to sit in one spot, but as stated modern radials come back to life after being driven on. I had a 2006 Corvette Z06 that I performed a used car inspection on last year, it had 146 miles on it obviously it sat most of its life. When I first drove it it rode like total shit and I honestly thought the tires were done, after 20-30 miles they weren't bad (I wanted to replace them anyway due to age but management voted that down). The car really didn't need anything else.

 

The big concern I always have is the lubrication for everything draining down and not proptecting the engine, and the trans drying out. However this can only be avoided by starting the vehicle once in awhile, leaving an automatic transmission sit can be much more detrimental then an engine running dry for a few seconds.

 

The animal concern with the steel wool I haven't ever thought of, and even with steel wool that can be hard to avoid. The most common thing I've seen vehicle come in with those issues is that some animal chewed the wiring, or packed food away somewhere for the winter.

[kirks5oh]

you'll get 20 different opinions from 20 different people. i store 3 cars all winter long, and have done so for years.

 

my garage is set at 60 degrees---haha--probably the most important thing

 

i start the cars once a month---no reason to do it every week, or every other week. and i let them get fully warmed up, back them out into the driveway and back in, so that the wheels don't get flat spots. i make sure the tires are inflated fully.

 

the cars get a full tank of gas at the beginning of winter, and a fresh tank of gas in the spring. also, fresh oil change in the spring as well as any other fluids that need changed.

 

battery tender hooked up all winter, and cars covered.

 

that's it, no other b.s.

[Sledhead36]

For tires, I have been storing car for years by overinflating the tires to 60-65psi and have never had an issue with flat spots. I use a "Battery Saver" not battery tender, just my preference. Full tank, no stabil.

[vgsrule]

Last summer I started a Honda that had been sitting in a garage for 10 years without running. All I did was replace the battery, oil/filter, drain and refill gas, and pull the plugs to spray some wd40 in the cylinders. Tires were not a noticeable issue at all, still originals from 1987 with no signs of flat spots or dry rot. Maybe being a light car it wasn't as bad? But I know the tires were flat for an extended period of time a few years ago. No problems now though.

[silverhatch]

Full tank and I go start it once every couple weeks and drive it around the complex. I was surprised that it has always started up on the first crank every time. Maybe if mine was the fastest car if the household, I could get our garage. LOL

[Das Borgen]

if you start your car, you had better go DRIVE it for 20mn to let the oil fully warm up.....otherwise, you're not doing your motor any favors by letting it idle...........

 

nothing else is essential aside from a battery tender, fuel stabilizer, and maybe inflating tires.with modern tires, it's not as much a necessity

[zeitgeist57]

Those that leave their nice cars parked for winter...

 

"nice cars"???:fa:

 

 

Would be nice if there was a way to defeat fuel pump and injector, as well as coilpacks, so you could crank a cold EFI engine for a few seconds to get oil circulated...like an OBDII module: plug it in, press a function that disables fuel/spark for 30 seconds but still allows you to crank it...