Geeesammy Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 If you need new plugs after a month you've got some issues. Hell I run rich as hell and burn oil in boost but don't go through them that quick. Just pull one, post up a pic and we will tell you whether to keep or pitch the save yourself the time and frozen extremities and just do one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_buster Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 about that.... ummm... i got all but the 6th one swapped and when pulling the last coil pack out the boot fell off and i cant get it out if anyone in newark wants to swing by and help thatd be awesome. 740-644-2301. its under the iac and i dont have a deep well socket to take that off to make room. i cant even get to spark plug socket in.. oh and Ive had the new plugs for a month but havent put them in. we had a contest at work to see who can sell the most c.o.c's(annoying thing at the register we ask you to buy) and I got free plugs out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_buster Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 ok so when the boot fell it fell the way its supposed to sit. and I was able to put the coil back on. so i replaced only 5 plugs so far. ill have to do the other at my dads he has better tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Thats ok since as Scott told you twice that is probably not the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_buster Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 i dont have the proper tools for removing the other stuff. thats going to be a day at my dads thing. i have a cheap socket set from autozone-9.99. and a big ratchet long extension and a magnetic spark plug socket. and a claw hammer... so i replaced what I could do today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SinisterSS Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 (edited) 4 common issues on that car for stalling: 1. MAF dirty or bad 2. ECT sensor 3. EGR valve sticking 4. PCM/ECU common issue for excessive cranking: 1.MAF dirty or bad 2. Crank sensor 3. Battery cable connections loose, or corroded possible bad battery 4. starter is going out the MAF is on that list twice, could also be the idle air needs adjusted, but you also said the check engine light isn't on but doesn't mean a DTC isn't present Edited January 4, 2013 by SinisterSS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Vacume leak can cause both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_buster Posted January 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Did hook up the code scanner at work just in case. Turns out the light doesn't work :/ I had two codes knock sensor and O2 sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Interesting, knock sensor could be from it misfiring, throw an O2 sensor on it. If the fuel trims are out of wack it'll run shitty too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SinisterSS Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 Did hook up the code scanner at work just in case. Turns out the light doesn't work :/ I had two codes knock sensor and O2 sensor. see! always ALWAYS check for DTC's first even if the CEL isn't on it gives you a starting point. Now you have some leads. Did you wright down the codes? if so post them up to help us point you in the right direction. there's more than 1 o2 code, was it for slow response? No signal? Heater failure? Too rich? Too lean? we need the codes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 see! always ALWAYS check for DTC's first even if the CEL isn't on it gives you a starting point. Now you have some leads. Did you wright down the codes? if so post them up to help us point you in the right direction. there's more than 1 o2 code, was it for slow response? No signal? Heater failure? Too rich? Too lean? we need the codes Yup. I'm going to agree, but seeing a how this is going is why I said just throw an O2 sensor on it. That would suit the "parts store" mentality. I can see it now, he had one of his coworkers in the parking lot with the little handheld scanner, they saw an O2 or fuel trim related code and said "yup needs an O2". Seriously though, the codes would be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_buster Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 I hooked it up and the codes were 325 and 132 I believe. Papers are in the car and right now were at monsterjam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SinisterSS Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 I hooked it up and the codes were 325 and 132 I believe. Papers are in the car and right now were at monsterjam. P0325 is the knock sensor code, P0132 is for o2 sensor high voltage, your 100% sure its p0132 and not p0130? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_buster Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 135. Sorry just got back in the car and looked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SinisterSS Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 135. Sorry just got back in the car and looked. P0135 sounds better(no such code as p0132 for your car). you have 2 options option A: throw an o2 sensor in it, BUT I highly doubt this will fix your issue fact I'm 99.9% sure it wont, so I would save your money until you read/look at option B. option B: (your gonna hate) but it sounds like you have a broken wire issue. I found a Nissan service bulletin: TSB - NTB98-008A, (http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/fixurnissan/2011-01-04_222448_95_to_99_maxima_egi_harness_bulletin.pdf) it describes symptoms that your having. I would check the engine wire harness where it bends over the right rear of the engine next to the right strut tower, seems that's the prime area where the harness breaks, if you don't find any broken wires then try a new o2 sensor and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_buster Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Awesome. Electrical stuff.. if I do find a broken wire what's the proper way to fix it? I've fixed broken wires in 12 gauge water pump wire, is it the same solder and tape fix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 P0135 sounds better(no such code as p0132 for your car). you have 2 options option A: throw an o2 sensor in it, BUT I highly doubt this will fix your issue fact I'm 99.9% sure it wont, so I would save your money until you read/look at option B. option B: (your gonna hate) but it sounds like you have a broken wire issue. I found a Nissan service bulletin: TSB - NTB98-008A, (http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/fixurnissan/2011-01-04_222448_95_to_99_maxima_egi_harness_bulletin.pdf) it describes symptoms that your having. I would check the engine wire harness where it bends over the right rear of the engine next to the right strut tower, seems that's the prime area where the harness breaks, if you don't find any broken wires then try a new o2 sensor and report back. Oh yeah, I rarely work on Nissans but I have come across that before. I hope that's not the case because te best way to fix it is to just replace the harness, and you'd better grab your ankles and hang on for that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMTC Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Did hook up the code scanner at work just in case. Turns out the light doesn't work :/ I had two codes knock sensor and O2 sensor. The knock sensor going bad in my 97 actually caused the o2 code for me. I replaced the knock sensor and everything was fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SinisterSS Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Oh yeah, I rarely work on Nissans but I have come across that before. I hope that's not the case because te best way to fix it is to just replace the harness, and you'd better grab your ankles and hang on for that one. I don't either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_buster Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 heres the 5 plugs I was able to replace. http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/47706_10100621513399452_1832848781_n.jpg and on the coils there was some stuff that looked like rust. Any ideas what it is? http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/427730_10100621513439372_912232104_n.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagner Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Lot of oil there.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_buster Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 yeah, and everytime i check the oil its all the way up the dipstick...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Please tell me you didn't put more of those shit Bosch plugs back in it? Worst thing you can buy for most cars. Hopefully someone told you that NGK is about the best thing you can buy for most Japanese cars, even if they aren't platinum/iridium. I even run them in my Camaro I think so highly of them. Judging by the oil on the plugs it needs valve cover gaskets, which would explain the look of burnt oil on the coils. The coils are not something I'd worry about, but I'd fix the valve covers. When you're inspecting spark plugs you need to look at the porcelin around the electrode (white part that actually sits in the engine), and the ground strap. It's hard to tell from your picture if you got oil on a couple of those or if there is heavy carbon on it from misfiring in those cylinders and running rich. I don't suppose you remember what cylinder those came out of? The top and bottom plugs in your picture? They all look like they burn some oil from the brown tint, with the one in the center looking best out of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 yeah, and everytime i check the oil its all the way up the dipstick...? Huh? As in overfull? How far up the dipstick? Don't take this the wrong way but given some of your ignorance I'm going to ask, you do know how to check oil right? Car off, warm engine, wipe the stick off, insert clean dipstick and pull it out? Something is wrong if it's overfull, either the obvious that it was overfilled, or some other fluid is getting in it like coolant, does it still look like oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_buster Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 its black and not tan like if water got in. it is overfull after wiping it off, but when I first pull it out its all the way up almost to the top. Needs changed but with <25hrs a week i cant afford even the 16.99 special we have (finding new job in Feb.) and I put NGK iridium plugs in it. calls for double platinum but they were 9.99 each and iridium were 6.99 each.. so I upgraded plus they were free and they liked the cheaper idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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