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picked up a gas saver 2000 Toyota celica GT??


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1.8 all stock would a cold air be better then just putting a K&N filter for gas Mi ..so far stock its getting 38.5 MPG ..looking to get the best MPG can out of it going to need tires by winter so thinking going with a 205-55-r15 /stock are 195-60-r15 3200rpm @ 68mph

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/9127895157_e8970a50e2_c.jpghttp://farm3.staticflickr.com/2870/9127876303_8cc0c216bd_z.jpghttp://farm4.staticflickr.com/3685/9130072802_1c4c872c8c_z.jpghttp://farm6.staticflickr.com/5326/9127882343_02dbd2189c_z.jpghttp://farm8.staticflickr.com/7411/9130077632_64cfbdbe7c_z.jpg

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no burning oil ...why ???

 

These motors are notorious for catalytic deterioration which lead to particles being sucked into the combustion chambers and causing extreme amounts of wear on the cylinder walls and rings. It's most notably common with the MR-S which shares the same motor, however, it's due to the ULEV system they put in place for emissions.

 

It's possible you may not have problems, but I suggest keeping a close eye on it. Some cases were found as early as 50k miles.

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Cold Air intakes can be good and can be bad, It all comes down to weather or not the intake is designed well, If for example you have a maf that's only a sensor with no full housig switching the intake inner diameter will cause a Rich or Lean condition depending on if the diameter is smaller or larger.

 

Another thing to consider is where the MAF placement is in relation to the nearest bend, Choppy airflow = choppy fueling.

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Skinnier tires are better for snow traction and MPG. Not sure on sidewall, obviously more = more efficient at consistent higher speeds but with a dropoff in efficiency at a certain point with acceleration. That's more math than I'm willing to do.

 

I do know the stiffer the sidewall the better due to less loss of energy from sidewall flex.

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