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Re-Break In Period...


FocusDave01

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So when I get my bike back will I have to "Re-Break" it in? Change the oil 600 miles after I start riding? Reason I ask is because I have gotten different answers on it. But from what I have been told it will be practily a new engine with all new valve seals, piston rings etc etc...just curious dont want to have to go thru this again lol...

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Dude break it in like the manual says. I'd go with what the r & d dept at yamaha recommends before the motoman method. you have to remember race bikes that are broken in the hard way are usually rebuilt after each race

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IMO-keep away from redline, vary your rpms (don't set it at 6k for your whole ride) I wouldn't do over 10k for the first 200.....and not too much more than 10k till like 500 miles

But then again, you could go rape the sh!t out of it....like that 09 cbr1000 with 160 miles on it, hitting the rev limiter on the dyno :lol:

OR do what the manual says.........this post was just my opinion.

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IMO-keep away from redline, vary your rpms (don't set it at 6k for your whole ride) I wouldn't do over 10k for the first 200.....and not too much more than 10k till like 500 miles

But then again, you could go rape the sh!t out of it....like that 09 cbr1000 with 160 miles on it, hitting the rev limiter on the dyno :lol:

ouch lol...yeah ill have to look it up online on what yamaha recomends..since it didnt come with a owners manual..

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i have a vid of the kawasaki factory somewhere around here...

i shit you not, as soon as the bike rolls off the line, it goes straight to the dyno where they flog the hell out of it. 5 minutes after its built.

break in periods are overrated. just ride the damn thing.

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on a car engine, 2k rpms for 20 min when using moly rings. thats to seat the rings, roller parts need no break in so the days of varying rpms and all that crap are out, that was to get the lifters to seat on the cam properly, their machined on a slight angle so that they will spin in the bore so they will last. with a overhead cam, shim in bucket design like bikes have there is also virtually no break in, the most important thing is to seat the rings so they don't smoke.

for what it's worth.

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on a car engine, 2k rpms for 20 min when using moly rings. thats to seat the rings, roller parts need no break in so the days of varying rpms and all that crap are out, that was to get the lifters to seat on the cam properly, their machined on a slight angle so that they will spin in the bore so they will last. with a overhead cam, shim in bucket design like bikes have there is also virtually no break in, the most important thing is to seat the rings so they don't smoke.

for what it's worth.

and thats exactly what i dont want any more smoke from my bike ever :-(

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IMO-keep away from redline, vary your rpms (don't set it at 6k for your whole ride) I wouldn't do over 10k for the first 200.....and not too much more than 10k till like 500 miles

But then again, you could go rape the sh!t out of it....like that 09 cbr1000 with 160 miles on it, hitting the rev limiter on the dyno :lol:

OR do what the manual says.........this post was just my opinion.

Ive heard arguments on both sides about the proper way to break it in.. Some people dont ride it any different and some go by the manual and ive heard of good and bad from both sides..

the racers dont need a break in because like u said they rebuild them often. when i used to race supercross my bikes got new rings every 5 races and a piston every 10-15 so there was no point.

some manuals say to keep it under 55 mph or whatever but then people go out and ride on the highway at a constant rpm and the rings dont really get much movement in the cylinder, soo the first time u go out after u think its broke in and hit a rpm above whatever u did during break in, its all new territory for the rings and time wasted.

i recommend riding at at various speeds and rpm's for the first 500 miles keeping the rpm's under 8,000. when i say under 8,000 that doesnt mean holding it at 8,000, that means that u can shift through the gears up to 8,000. the point of the break in is to allow the ring or rings(however many ur bike has) to seat themselves in the cylinder sleeve before extreme heat from high rpm's damage them and makes a gap between the two, causing a loss of compression.

The second 500 miles you can get closer to your redline while riding(NOT REVVING W/O LOAD), as long as you dont hold it there.

The first oil change is between 800-1000 miles because all engines during break-in will produce a little bit of shavings,etc that will end up in the oil.. thats why it needs changed so soon.

Just take a trip on some scenic roads across ohio and that will help out with getting the break-in miles out of the way. my first 500 were done in 2 days by riding up to mohican forest on scenic highways that way i had some corners with various speeds so i didnt get bore out of my mind

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Ive heard arguments on both sides about the proper way to break it in.. Some people dont ride it any different and some go by the manual and ive heard of good and bad from both sides..

the racers dont need a break in because like u said they rebuild them often. when i used to race supercross my bikes got new rings every 5 races and a piston every 10-15 so there was no point.

some manuals say to keep it under 55 mph or whatever but then people go out and ride on the highway at a constant rpm and the rings dont really get much movement in the cylinder, soo the first time u go out after u think its broke in and hit a rpm above whatever u did during break in, its all new territory for the rings and time wasted.

i recommend riding at at various speeds and rpm's for the first 500 miles keeping the rpm's under 8,000. when i say under 8,000 that doesnt mean holding it at 8,000, that means that u can shift through the gears up to 8,000. the point of the break in is to allow the ring or rings(however many ur bike has) to seat themselves in the cylinder sleeve before extreme heat from high rpm's damage them and makes a gap between the two, causing a loss of compression.

The second 500 miles you can get closer to your redline while riding(NOT REVVING W/O LOAD), as long as you dont hold it there.

The first oil change is between 800-1000 miles because all engines during break-in will produce a little bit of shavings,etc that will end up in the oil.. thats why it needs changed so soon.

Just take a trip on some scenic roads across ohio and that will help out with getting the break-in miles out of the way. my first 500 were done in 2 days by riding up to mohican forest on scenic highways that way i had some corners with various speeds so i didnt get bore out of my mind

awsome thanks man for the tips...and taking a nice long tour of ohio sounds like a good idea can almost break the bike in, in one day lol

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it's kinda like breaking in a new girlfriend, ya can't just roll her over in the middle of the night and just slam it home.... ya gotta ease into that... use lube the first time....00020158.gif

lube? whats that? were not talking grandma's here! and if you need lube.. dont waste the money, just spit on and go to town! :lol: i think thats what the amish do?

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From YOUR 2006 R6 owners manual:

0-1600 km (0-600 mi)

Avoid prolonged operation above 8300 rpm

1000-1600 km )600-1000 mi)

Avoid prolonged operation above 9900 rpm

Engine break-in

There is never a more important period in the life of your engine than the period between 0 and 16oo km (1000 mile). For this reason, you should read the following material carefully.

Since the engine is brand new, do not put an excessive load on it for the first 1600 km (1000 mi). The various parts in the engine wear and polish themselves to the correct operating clearances. During this period, prolonged full-throttle operation or any condition that might result in the engine overheating must be avoided.

Caution:

After 1000 km (600 mi) of operation, the engine oil must be changed and the oil filter cartridge or element replaced.

1600 km (1000 mi) and beyond The vehicle can now be operated normally.

Caution:

-Keep the engine speed out of the tachometer red zone.

-If any engine trouble should occur during the engine break-in period, immediately have a Yamaha dealer check the vehicle.

My opinion: Break it in this way for the street. Other break ins are for other purposes, like use for the track.

The reason: I worked for a Honda motorcycle shop, and the test ride bikes often got flogged WOT before broken in. Sometimes we'd have to re-build the engine. Same is true with owner's that didn't break them in, and brought them back.

The usual symptom: The bike would smoke a lot out the tailpipe...

Techie stuff: The break-in period is for the burnishing of mating metal to metal surfaces inside the engine. Mostly that is the piston rings, but all moving parts are included.

Translation: Special little things happen to the metal on a microscopic level, that make the engine happy.

Note: most manufacturers put their new engines through a minimum break in on a test stand, to avoid problems with owner break in of the engine. They all have to do this, to avoid having a lot of vehicles come back messed up.

I've got a full set of 2006 R6 manuals in PDF format if you want them. I can put them on a CD.

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From YOUR 2006 R6 owners manual:

My opinion: Break it in this way for the street. Other break ins are for other purposes, like use for the track.

The reason: I worked for a Honda motorcycle shop, and the test ride bikes often got flogged WOT before broken in. Sometimes we'd have to re-build the engine. Same is true with owner's that didn't break them in, and brought them back.

The usual symptom: The bike would smoke a lot out the tailpipe...

Techie stuff: The break-in period is for the burnishing of mating metal to metal surfaces inside the engine. Mostly that is the piston rings, but all moving parts are included.

Translation: Special little things happen to the metal on a microscopic level, that make the engine happy.

Note: most manufacturers put their new engines through a minimum break in on a test stand, to avoid problems with owner break in of the engine. They all have to do this, to avoid having a lot of vehicles come back messed up.

I've got a full set of 2006 R6 manuals in PDF format if you want them. I can put them on a CD.

hey recon thanks alot for the post really appretiate it.. yeah if you dont mind id love to get one of those cd's from ya..so this would still apply even know the motor is rebuilt? cause they talk about metal shavings and even know there replacing seals,rings etc there not putting in new valves or pistons themselves..didnt know if thats where the metal shavings came from in the break in period,..,

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More: What ousley99 and cmoosego said are also true. Beyond the factory break-in period, it's best to be gentle or cautious for a while with the engine. You can slam it a few WOT after break-in, but avoid constant abuse of the engine. The engine itself will let you know when it's time. Listen to what it's telling you. You can feel it. It's a Zen thing, I guess. The same is true for you the rider, you have a break in period with a new bike. Do it right.

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i have a vid of the kawasaki factory somewhere around here...

i shit you not, as soon as the bike rolls off the line, it goes straight to the dyno where they flog the hell out of it. 5 minutes after its built.

break in periods are overrated. just ride the damn thing.

+1 and what Dweez said. Break it in how you plan on riding it.

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hey recon thanks alot for the post really appretiate it.. yeah if you dont mind id love to get one of those cd's from ya..so this would still apply even know the motor is rebuilt? cause they talk about metal shavings and even know there replacing seals,rings etc there not putting in new valves or pistons themselves..didnt know if thats where the metal shavings came from in the break in period,..,

Yes, if the piston rings were replaced, it should have a break-in period for the piston rings.

All engines produce metal inside, in the oil, all the time, but only a tiny tiny bit. It's usually a shiny sludge, not big pieces of stuff. It's usually aluminum sludge. Aluminum is softer than steel, and will wear away slowly. The oil keeps it from wearing away quickly. Any steel or iron particles are not good.

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While I don't have direct experience with motorcycle motors I will say I've been around a lot of high powered cars. From all the builds I've seen and from my own 400 horse build they are broken in hard. I started my car, changed the oil and threw it on the dyno. I DID NOT HAVE A SINGLE PROBLEM IN DOING SO.

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