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Help Decide DIESEL truck


TurboNova

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Ok well I sold my 1/2 ton and looking to pickup a diesel as soon as I find one I like.

 

Im not brand loyal but lean more towards chevy.

 

My Requirements:

 

2008 or newer

Crew Cab

4x4

Less than 100k

Automatic

most likely a long bed but not sure (possibly buying 5th wheel camper next year)

 

 

I am looking more along the lines of a 3500hd Dually crew cab. I have other vehicles to drive. Only need this for towing and hauling, and buying for the future as well. Soon will be upgrading my camper to a 5th wheel and want to buy an enclosed car trailer and will probably look for something in the 32' range triple axle.

 

I am not a diesel guy but see a ton of dodges and fords for sale and not so many duramax. Dont want a truck plagued historically with problems.

 

Price range tops would be 32-35k

 

I have no problem getting a filter delete and full exhaust to delete the bs.

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Dan I have an LMM duramax CCSB if you want to drive it to see if you like it

 

 

and check out duramaxforum.com lots of excellent info on there for duramax's

 

 

will do and would love to talk with you about yours. What kind of MPG and any problems with yours?

 

I would suggest a dodge for typically better fuel economy towing and lower maintance costs.

 

seems like alot of complaints about the newer dodge stuff. I like the looks of them but question long life

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will do and would love to talk with you about yours. What kind of MPG and any problems with yours?

 

 

 

seems like alot of complaints about the newer dodge stuff. I like the looks of them but question long life

 

I can speak for the new 6.7 trucks but ive used many 5.9L Cummins motor truck for work and own a 5.9 and i can say from my personal experience they require less maintance than the counter parts of those years. 2003-2007. No vehicle platform comes without some problems. Test drive several and then make your decision.

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will do and would love to talk with you about yours. What kind of MPG and any problems with yours?

 

 

Mine bone stock saw as good as 19 or so MPG on the freeway. I have since deleted the DPF exhaust and added EFi Live. I see 23-25mpg on the freeway. My current tunes are Eco, Light Tow, 75, 100, and 150. I haven't had any issues with it thus far. I just hit 90k miles a couple days ago and bought it with 85k on the clock. The previous owner is a member on the boards father. And the only issues he had was the Lift pump when bad and the fuel tanks straps broke and lost the fuel cell. All was covered under the warranty. Like people have said the tranny is fantastic but anything over the 150hp tune they aren't loving life. My truck pretty much always stays on the 75hp tune and its a blast to drive. Only thing I don't care for his the small tires and wheels it comes with from the factory. Nothing that some leveling and 20's can't fix haha.

 

 

Also on DuramaxForum.com the guys over there say to delete the EGR, re-route the PCV, and upgrade the liftpump and it will eliminate damn near any issues. I have the EGR closed in my tune but have also bought a plate ($12) to install. The PCV is like $20 in parts, and the liftpump is generally $600-650.

 

The DPF exhaust has to go in order to see some good mpg as well. Do some searches on it. I got my full exhaust for $150 and paid $650 for my EFi Live AutoCal preloaded with the tunes from the go-to guy for LMM's.

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Very nice write up. Thank you

 

 

 

Mine bone stock saw as good as 19 or so MPG on the freeway. I have since deleted the DPF exhaust and added EFi Live. I see 23-25mpg on the freeway. My current tunes are Eco, Light Tow, 75, 100, and 150. I haven't had any issues with it thus far. I just hit 90k miles a couple days ago and bought it with 85k on the clock. The previous owner is a member on the boards father. And the only issues he had was the Lift pump when bad and the fuel tanks straps broke and lost the fuel cell. All was covered under the warranty. Like people have said the tranny is fantastic but anything over the 150hp tune they aren't loving life. My truck pretty much always stays on the 75hp tune and its a blast to drive. Only thing I don't care for his the small tires and wheels it comes with from the factory. Nothing that some leveling and 20's can't fix haha.

 

 

Also on DuramaxForum.com the guys over there say to delete the EGR, re-route the PCV, and upgrade the liftpump and it will eliminate damn near any issues. I have the EGR closed in my tune but have also bought a plate ($12) to install. The PCV is like $20 in parts, and the liftpump is generally $600-650.

 

The DPF exhaust has to go in order to see some good mpg as well. Do some searches on it. I got my full exhaust for $150 and paid $650 for my EFi Live AutoCal preloaded with the tunes from the go-to guy for LMM's.

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another thing is you don't have to necessarily get a long bed to tow a 5er. I tow mine with my 06 short bed. Depending on the front design of the camper you may need a slider hitch. I put a reese slider in mine but I never have to slide the hitch because my front clears the cab to almost 90 degrees. I never turn that sharp anyhow because it's hard on trailer tires to drag them like that and if you're turning to 90 degrees on any kind of regular basis you need some backing lessons. :D If I slide the hitch I have plenty of room but like I said.....I never have to slide it. I love my duramax.
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my next truck will be a crew cab but I'll most likely stick with a short bed.....you add all that bed and cab and their turning radius gets pretty crappy. You can get a superglide hitch that slides by itself so you never have to touch it.
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I am a big fan of long bed trucks when pulling 5th wheel/goosenecks. I have most of my experience pulling these trailers and I can tell you, the longer the wheelbase of the truck, the better the trailer tows. If the truck will not be a daily driver, I say definitely get the long bed for the stability of the longer wheelbase.

 

and if you're turning to 90 degrees on any kind of regular basis you need some backing lessons.
on the other hand, a master can park his trailer past 90 degrees without jacknifing it.
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I was in your same shoes and ended up only spending 20+ k on something. After doing researching and asking around I decided on a 04.5 lly duramax. Couldn't be happier. Excellent truck, love the Allison. I've towed through some steep mountains with zero issues going 80+
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I am a big fan of long bed trucks when pulling 5th wheel/goosenecks. I have most of my experience pulling these trailers and I can tell you, the longer the wheelbase of the truck, the better the trailer tows. If the truck will not be a daily driver, I say definitely get the long bed for the stability of the longer wheelbase.

 

on the other hand, a master can park his trailer past 90 degrees without jacknifing it.

 

mine is only ~10k but I have zero issues with stability. It tows excellent. My truck is my daily and even just being an extended cab short bed it can be a pain in the ass in small parking lots. I'd hate to think the pain in the ass long bed crew cabs would be in those situations. That's one of the main reasons I didn't get a dually. They tow really nice but everyday driving sucks not to mention the extra $500-$600 in tires you have to put on them. I love my truck but with the kids getting older and having the 3rd kid now my next one will be a crew cab. I'm generally not a dodge person but that mega cab is bad ass....I'd look seriously at dodge just to get that cab.

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I'm a big fan of the Cummins 6.7, mine is an 07 and its deleted, while dads is a 2010 bone stock. Both mine and my dads are manuals FYI. I've done the majority of the maintenance on both trucks. My truck towed a gooseneck horse trailer for its first 40k miles until I bought it, and my dad tows a 10k travel trailer all over the country with his (it now has around 85k on it). When not towing, the truck is my dads daily driver.

 

What questions do you have?

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I see 23-25mpg on the freeway.

 

Hand calculated?

 

 

 

You seem interested in newer stuff however, I daily drive a 5.9L CR, never had a problem with it. Love the inline six torque. Real diesels don't have glow plugs.

 

Seriously though, drive everything you're interested in. Best is to drive one modded with what you pretty much want to do to your future truck so you can really feel how they drive and respond.

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I guess Im not super set on a newer one either just like to keep the mileage down to start since this will be around for over a decade kind of truck. I have a decent amount to put down so If I found an 05+ model with lower mileage it could work nice.

 

My only questions about the dodge is the whole head gasket issue I read alot about. Im not all about putting head studs of head gaskets on a diesel.

 

Only mods I intend to do would be a filter delete complete exhaust, delete egr and a tuner.

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6.7 Cummins only need headstuds once once you turn a tuner up to the point where the turbo is operating outside if its map. Sub 500hp/850tq range on stock fuel and turbo is generally considered safe for stock headbolts. You will read lots of stuff on blown head gaskets, but 90% of the time its on stock vgt turbo trucks that are turned up higher than stock bolts can handle.

 

Its also been pretty well documented that letting the motor come up to temperature before beating on it is extremely effective at reducing/eliminating head gasket issues on a mildly tuned truck.

 

For what its worth, my truck should be making 800+ tq and I'm not running studs. No issues at all and ive been running the same setup since January. Definitely do some research on delete tuning availability too. Epa regulations banned most companies from selling delete-capable tuners in the US. I'm honestly not sure where things stand on workarounds, but I'm sure they are out there. I went with efiLive just before the ban was announced and I've been very happy with the tuning.

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My only questions about the dodge is the whole head gasket issue I read alot about. Im not all about putting head studs of head gaskets on a diesel.

 

Only mods I intend to do would be a filter delete complete exhaust, delete egr and a tuner.

 

My truck put down 824 RWTQ on the dyno last summer. Stock head gasket, stock head bolts. It had 14XK miles when it was dyno'ed. It has 174K miles on it now and climbing quickly. I don't beat on it though. I let it warm up before romping on it and cool down before shutting it off. I even send my oil samples off to blackstone for an oil analyst.

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mine is only ~10k but I have zero issues with stability. It tows excellent. My truck is my daily and even just being an extended cab short bed it can be a pain in the ass in small parking lots. I'd hate to think the pain in the ass long bed crew cabs would be in those situations. That's one of the main reasons I didn't get a dually. They tow really nice but everyday driving sucks not to mention the extra $500-$600 in tires you have to put on them. I love my truck but with the kids getting older and having the 3rd kid now my next one will be a crew cab. I'm generally not a dodge person but that mega cab is bad ass....I'd look seriously at dodge just to get that cab.

 

Wheelbase is probably the most important factor in towing that people seem to overlook. No matter the weight, when you start getting trailers that are longer and taller, the foundation of your tow vehicle needs to get bigger. While it may tow pretty well now, you pull the same trailer with your current truck and then a truck with a longer wheelbase down 71, you would notice a difference. It's not that one is bad, especially when you are into HD trucks, but if he isn't going to daily drive it, then he should go for the longest wheelbase he can get to ensure he has the best tow vehicle he can get.

 

As for turning radius, tell me about it. I learned to drive in a 1989 Chevy 3500 Western Hauler Crew Cab Dually. Before my parents let me take my driving test I had to hook up the horse trailer, tow it, park it, and unhook it.

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