coltboostin Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Wow. lots of work. Where did you get the wire? I like the one color group mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Wow. lots of work. Where did you get the wire? I like the one color group mod. It's actually a "pre built" harness from DIYAutotune.com It's not really what you'd think, just a DB37 connector with different wires already pinned to the ecu appropriate pin. I like it, I'm a noob when it comes to harness making, and I like having uniform colors for everything so I can easily diagnose something. The wire isn't as high of grade as I would have liked but for $80 and each is a different color/stripe combo and labeled every foot, I won't bitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 It's actually a "pre built" harness from DIYAutotune.com It's not really what you'd think, just a DB37 connector with different wires already pinned to the ecu appropriate pin. I like it, I'm a noob when it comes to harness making, and I like having uniform colors for everything so I can easily diagnose something. The wire isn't as high of grade as I would have liked but for $80 and each is a different color/stripe combo and labeled every foot, I won't bitch. Cool. I can solder a board, and have built full harnesses-repined ECUs...ect-just F'in hate it!!! And believe it or not its fairly expensive to do a nice, clean harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Cool. I can solder a board, and have built full harnesses-repined ECUs...ect-just F'in hate it!!! And believe it or not its fairly expensive to do a nice, clean harness. Tell me about it. The connectors are all $8 or $10 each, plus the proper pins and seals at $.50 per. That all adds up to $200-$250 quick, not to mention TEFZEL wire and any sheathing you want, plus good heat shrink, tape, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted May 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Well got my Fuel Pressure regulator, fuel rail, exhaust manifold gaskets, and a lot of other things in over the last month or so. Wideband and clutch disc are on the way. I've also replaced the exhaust manifold studs and putting all new locking nuts on them to eliminate any leaks. Had Alex L. weld up my coolant tube I still need to have him weld on an elbow to my compressor housing so I don't have to run a rubber 90* bend off of it, hopefully today or tomorrow I get the motivation to install the fuel rail and my injectors and mock up my FPR for wiring. Next up is wiring in the injectors and IACV as well as TPS and IAT sensor once the intake and fuel rail are bolted down. Then ordering a lot of fuel hose and quite a few fittings to plumb my fuel system in then theoretically the car will run. Somewhere in there I need to order a clutch disc and some bolts so it can move under it's own power. Then after than get a front mount kit so I can make use of my turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted June 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 (edited) More pics, they are prolly huge but too lazy to scale them down in paint Harness is 95% done, I got the wrong IACV plug from a supplier, that really pissed me off but kept plugging on. IACV, cam position sensor, IAT, TPS, harness grounds and sensor return to cpu done. Also all injectors done and used an Acura Legend resistor box since the ecu can't drive my injectors directly. Went out late last night to Alex's shop and had him weld on the elbow on my compressor housing. Pretty upset I got the housing powdercoated before I realized I needed the elbow welded on. May just roll with it since the intake cover it up mostly. Anywhere, here are some pics. Getting pretty close. Compressor housing http://i.imgur.com/wLqMQdL.jpg Lots of the harness, also can see a fuel rail down there somewhere and some injectors. http://i.imgur.com/WoHZC32.jpg Resistor box tucked down in there tight http://i.imgur.com/ID3g9CG.jpg Iacv and some harness routing http://i.imgur.com/Y1h8H4V.jpg ECU grounds to engine. Liked this location and they turned out well http://i.imgur.com/fxdOeGQ.jpg Engine cover fits like a glove over the 1ZZ coils. Spacer may be needed and will also need to get the proper bolts. http://i.imgur.com/oYgKZJD.jpg Hopefully getting all my cam seals and front and rear main seals done next weekend and maybe some interior wiring. We will see how long things take and how many unforseen issues I run into. Edited June 15, 2015 by Geeesammy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted June 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 Compressor housing bolted on. About ready to finalize that side and buy a downpipe and front mount stuff. Car should be ready to fire this weekend, hoping to get fuel hose by then. http://i.imgur.com/75lTLU0.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 No pictures this weekend. But got all my engine harness done, the relays have powers ran to their location excluding fuel pump relays on the hatch. I want a somewhat clean bay so We removed a fender and ran the wires behind it. I also tapped my intake vacuum ports that I removed and put allen headed plugs in the ports so I don't have to worry about 30+ psi ripping caps apart. The headlights and all other body functions work perfect which is what I have worried the most about for months. The grounds are all done up now and they are 4ga. Which really helped light brightness. Battery had 12.0-12.2 volts and the lights were twice as bright as I ever remember them being and that was even in the middle of the day Hopefully next weekend wrap up the wiring for the fuel pumps, I need two more 40a relays to feed the pumps. Then throwing hose on it and the trans in and getting the fmic setup and it is on to street tuning before I rent time from Brian to tune it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Exited to see this thing finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Also forgot to mention we wired in implements for an aftermarket map sensor and fuel pressure sensor so I fully intend on pegging this turbo out by the end of the year and maybe get lucky and blow the trans so I can do the 350z 6 speed swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Bastard Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Is the 350z trans stronger than a r154? I've always heard the r154 is pretty stout (but I suppose it, like anything else, has its limits). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Is the 350z trans stronger than a r154? I've always heard the r154 is pretty stout (but I suppose it, like anything else, has its limits). Supposedly as strong as a V160 in stock form for a fraction of the price. R154 can be made solid but no one is building them and I am too lazy to do the research to learn how. Jack's was doing essentially a bullet proof to them for like $1600 two years ago, they stopped because Mk3 owners are mainly a bunch of lowballing asshole's (or at least that is my best guess) and wanted to pay $800 instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Bastard Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 I had no idea about the 350z trans. What mods do you need to make it fit? Sounds like it would be a worth while swap, sucks the v160 demands such a supra tax (as does the r154 as well I suppose). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miller Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 11 days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 I had no idea about the 350z trans. What mods do you need to make it fit? Sounds like it would be a worth while swap, sucks the v160 demands such a supra tax (as does the r154 as well I suppose). Stock R154's with a jz bellhousing around $800+ usually now. 350z trans needs the tunnel beat out as does v160, it needs an adaptor plate, rx8 shifter iirc, and a one off clutch setup and release hub setup since it is a push style clutch instead of pull. 11 days Don't care about that date anymore. If it is done by then great, if not oh well. I'm fixing anything I run into along the way and so far that another few hundred worth of stuff and I haven't even gotten to the fuel system yet even though it's all new. I'd rather get it all done right and not have to worry about fixing something later on that I passed up now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Supposedly as strong as a V160 in stock form for a fraction of the price. . I doubt it. V160's have been 7's@185+ I have not seen ANY 350z 6 speeds even see the 8's. Also have helped replace 3 broken 350z (newer "revised" trans) and have never seen a broken v160. I think you'd have better luck seeing a white tiger in the wild. Cant beat the price though-hell I sold my last 350z 6 speed trans for $400!!! thought it seemed cheap, but that was market price at the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 I doubt it. V160's have been 7's@185+ I have not seen ANY 350z 6 speeds even see the 8's. Also have helped replace 3 broken 350z (newer "revised" trans) and have never seen a broken v160. I think you'd have better luck seeing a white tiger in the wild. Cant beat the price though-hell I sold my last 350z 6 speed trans for $400!!! thought it seemed cheap, but that was market price at the time That may be. Hate to admit I was a Nissan tech and don't know what the "revised" code is but the one to get from my understand is CD009, I think 2006? I know V160/161's are damn near Indestructible. I've seen a few guys on Supra pages selling V160's they bought since they are happy with their CD009 swap. One made like 950? I would buy a V160 in a heartbeat but the price tag is unreal. For $900 for a trans that will hold 1,000 wheel I'll take it this setup/car will never go 7's or 8's, doubtful it'll ever even see 9's with a CD009. I'd go auto if I ever wanted to leave high ten's. That is crazy you've seen that many blown up 350 transmissions. I only saw one needing a clutch at Nissan. I'd love the CD009 as well just for the 6th gear to cruise with a little better economy on the freeway since I'll be on E85 95% of the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 That may be. Hate to admit I was a Nissan tech and don't know what the "revised" code is but the one to get from my understand is CD009, I think 2006? I know V160/161's are damn near Indestructible. I've seen a few guys on Supra pages selling V160's they bought since they are happy with their CD009 swap. One made like 950? I would buy a V160 in a heartbeat but the price tag is unreal. For $900 for a trans that will hold 1,000 wheel I'll take it this setup/car will never go 7's or 8's, doubtful it'll ever even see 9's with a CD009. I'd go auto if I ever wanted to leave high ten's. That is crazy you've seen that many blown up 350 transmissions. I only saw one needing a clutch at Nissan. I'd love the CD009 as well just for the 6th gear to cruise with a little better economy on the freeway since I'll be on E85 95% of the time. Us Cleveland boys are hard on shit. Leave soft, don't do 6k clutch dumps on slicks, and it will live a log life!!! I think its a great trans for the money, and wondered why more people didn't use them especially considering how plentiful they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10phone2 Posted June 23, 2015 Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 another thing about the r154's is most that are out there are high mileage pos and are getting harder to come by. One option out there is the solstice trans, but I haven't been around the supra forums lately to see if there has been any serious hp thrown at them. I may have to look CD009 down the road next summer if the adapter plate/clutch setup isn't too pricey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted June 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 Well this is all you need aside from the trans. The price is a shocker but that is plug and play essentially. A friend here that is helping me with the build and one of his friends in AZ whose father owns an aerospace machine shop are trying to work on something a little cheaper if they get a group buy once it is figured out. I understand they are pretty close and are talking with clutch companies at this point in time. The sticker shock on this did me a number, but then I realized you cannot get a V160 for this. They don't list an Mk3 option, and really none of the options on their site suit my needs perfectly, so at some point I'd love to email them and tell them what I need and see if they can work with me on getting a setup together. I know of 5-6 1j/2j Mk3 owners that would like a setup like this in place of their R154. Plus if I don't blow my R154 up I can get $1200 out of it and basically pay for this setup :gabe: http://collinsadapters.com/index.php/2jz-to-supra-complete-swap-kit.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted August 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 I did things this weekend Fuel tank is back in, pretty hard doing it alone since it is massive and bulky/awkward but I made it work with no dents to the tank or anything which is always a plus. Ended up running the fuel pump feed over the tank, hopefully it will work out fine, I've asked two companys and both said it should be, we shall see I guess worst case scenario is I put in a check valve. Got my lines and pump setup up until the firewall, next weekend hopefully my Y block to step down from 1 -10 to 2 -08 will be here so I can feed the rail and then figure out where to mount my regulator on the return so. Got the pump plumbed in but totally forgot to order filters for pre and post pump so I need to order those as well and plumb them in. Once it has fuel I just need to throw a relay in the rear of the car and then get power to the ecu and make a charge pipe to go get the fab work done for the front mount and exhaust. http://i.imgur.com/VtOP7N4.jpg http://i.imgur.com/2asXo1E.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 What did you do to clean it out before you sump'd it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10phone2 Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 did Alex do the welding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted August 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 What did you do to clean it out before you sump'd it? It was a sumped tank my friend had, he wants to do dual in tank walbro 400's or something like that so he traded tanks. I love the idea of a sumped tank, options for pump setup is endless plus no fuel slosh. It had no dirt or rust in it so I'm just gonna roll with it as is. Hoping my filters come in sometime soon so I can button it all up and finish the return side. Still debating running an ethanol sensor so I can run flex fuel. Really just wanna get it up and running. Winter time will be good for a project like that did Alex do the welding? He did not do the sump, only thing he has done for me so far is the compressor housing and coolant crossover tube. Both of which he did an excellent job on with phenomenal pricing and turnaround. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted September 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 I had some free time today so I did what I've been dreading for awhile. Put the flywheel on with ARP hardware and replaced the rear main and pilot bearing. Usually would be an easy job but I could not find a bearing puller small enough to get my pilot bearing out so I had to use the ole' bread, bolt and hammer trick. Yes, it sucked and it took an hour of getting bread crumbs in my beard and hair. I got all the bolts torqued down and the new clutch hub together with all the washer which took forever as well since there is a cone washer that can only go in one way and I couldn't find in the TSRM or anywhere the correct way for it to go in, also couldn't find any of the pressure plate to flyweel torque specs so I headed home. The trans is all setup for install next time I am over working on it. Also upgraded the bolt's that hold the clutch fork pivot on since they are 20+ years old and I don't feel like snapping them with a pressure plate a lot stronger than stock. Few pics. http://i.imgur.com/Lps0pQH.jpg http://i.imgur.com/0SrV70S.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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