Experienced Machineist Needed!

[flounder]

Anyone know of anyone in the columbus area that is an experienced machineist. I need someone that can make some precision pieces for me.

They need to be very experienced with a lathe as both these part need to be made on a lathe and will have to have internal and external threads cut as well as a perfectly concentric center bore.

The threads I will need cut are as follows.

5/8x32

1/2X28

5/8x24

I have schematics for both. Both pieces will need to be made out of stainless steel. These are adapters to go from one thread setup to another.

These parts MUST! be precision parts. There can be zero tooling marks on the bore and the bore must be perfectly concentric to the part and cannot be off my more then .001

Let me know if you know anyone.

Edited April 21, 2009 by flounder

[yotaman88210]

I know a fabricator that may be able to do it.

[flounder]

I know a fabricator that may be able to do it.

I dont need a fabricator.. I need an experienced lathe machinist... there is one hell of a difference. If these parts are not made right then it will cause the destruction of a much more expensive and super hard to get part(s) as well as potentially hurt or kill someone.

[yotaman88210]

He is experienced with a lathe. Has one in his garage. You could give him a call and talk to him about it. Maybe he would know of someone if he couldnt do it.

[flounder]

He is experienced with a lathe. Has one in his garage. You could give him a call and talk to him about it. Maybe he would know of someone if he couldnt do it.

Yeah thats fine shoot me his number. Im going to be honest that unless he does this for a living, I probably wont trust him to make the parts. These parts are very precise and need a good lathe and good lathe skills to be able to make them.

Like I said, there is the risk of getting hurt or killed if the parts are not exact. Not to mention destroying another $1000 part that takes at least 6 months and a ton of paperwork to get.

[yotaman88210]

I sent it to ya. If you dont want to use him thats fine. He is a real stand up nice honest guy, so he would tell ya if he wanted to do it or not. When you call just be upfront and tell him what it is. He's cool.....

Oh you got one of those! I want to see!

[flounder]

I sent it to ya. If you dont want to use him thats fine. He is a real stand up nice honest guy, so he would tell ya if he wanted to do it or not. When you call just be upfront and tell him what it is. He's cool.....

Oh you got one of those! I want to see!

I havent got one yet. Im debating ordering one very soon though but I will need adapters for my "gear" due to the way its currently threaded. Not really a big deal but I think you understand why they need to be perfect now. I have a guys that can make them that I trust to do it but they are 2 hrs from here and I just wondered if anyone was closer and could do it for cheaper. Any experienced machinist should be able to make both adapters in under 1 hr.

[yotaman88210]

Cool man. Let me know what happens. May just have to drive the 2 hours. If would be worth it knowing the parts are done perfectly.

[4DAIVI PAI2K5]

if this is for what i thinkit is i wanna see

[dustinsn3485]

If you wanna send it to Dayton, my father has 25 years experience.

Also I know a guy that has a Haas CNC lathe that would probably run it for you. He has a business.

The guys business

[shittygsxr]

flounder you need to get with earache. He made me a bushing that was absolutely dead nuts on.

[Uncle Punk]

Couple of questions for you. What type of stainless steel, 300 or 400 series? Prehardened or heat treated. How long are the parts? No tool marks? Would a reamed finish be good enough? Honed or jig ground? A 0.001 tolerance does not necessarily mean a no tool mark finish. I am also two hours away from Columbus but how quickly do you need the parts? You are well within a one day shipping zone with standard ground shipping. I don’t stock 300 series stainless and the 400 series I do stock requires heat treat so you would be looking at a few days delay to get anything.

[jbot]

also, if this is what i think it is, and the two pieces being mated together is a common combination, then i'd suggest you make at least a couple more while you're at it, assuming this will be run on a CNC lathe.

For a job like this, cost is all setup and program time. Pressing the go button a few more times costs virtually nothing once it's setup.

[Disclaimer]

Ok, if no one else is gonna ask...

WTF is this big secret machine, and why's it a secret? I've got security clearance, promise.

[jbot]

i have a feeling i know what it is, but i'll just keep my trap shut since it's none of my business.

[flounder]

Alright,, the parts are for adapters for barrels to to accept a can. The problem is that the barrell is threaded for 5/8x32 to accept a brake and the cans are threaded 5/8x24. So one end of the adapter needs to be threaded to go over 5/8x32 then have a small spot which would accept a wrench and the other end would needed to be threaded 5/8x24 to insert into the can. The part shouldnt be more then 2 inches long i would imagine and then for the center bore, it needs to be bored probably around .400-.450 so that the round can freely pass through the adapter as it travels to the can. The reason for no tooling marks inside the bore is that it would affect the airflow as the round passes through and if it changes the path, there is a risk that the round could strike a baffle as it travels through the can. If I do this, I would also have an another adapter made which has the 5/8x24 on the can end and 1/2x28 on the other so that it would thread over an different barrel.

Ideally, I would like an 11-15 degree bore crown on the can side of the adapter

To be honest, I still havent decided if Im going to do it but I wanted to see what something like this would take to make to see if its worth the cost. Like I said, I have people that can do it but if someone with experience is local. I would love to be able to watch the process if I decide to do it. Its about a year away but I need to know all associated costs up front before making my decision

Edited April 21, 2009 by flounder

[dustinsn3485]

The link I added...One of the guys that works there works on guns on the side...He's got an AK that he's pretty much made his own on the CNC...

I don't know jack shit about guns...but there is a possibility he may have already done something similar to what you're talking about...

[flounder]

also, if this is what i think it is, and the two pieces being mated together is a common combination, then i'd suggest you make at least a couple more while you're at it, assuming this will be run on a CNC lathe.

For a job like this, cost is all setup and program time. Pressing the go button a few more times costs virtually nothing once it's setup.

Its actually not a common occurrence as most just have the barrel threaded for the correct can threads. Mine however is threaded for a brake which has a different thread setup then the can which either means make an adapter or chop the barrel and rethread.

[Speed]

Its actually not a common occurrence as most just have the barrel threaded for the correct can threads. Mine however is threaded for a brake which has a different thread setup then the can which either means make an adapter or chop the barrel and rethread.

Or get a 2nd barrel ?

[flounder]

Or get a 2nd barrel ?

You obviously dont know whats involved in changing barrels on most guns.

Its not as simple as unscrewing and screwing in another barrel.

[Uncle Punk]

How long are the threads on the barrel and suppressor? Does the end of the barrel stop on a shoulder inside the adapter? Does the suppressor stop on a shoulder on the outside of the adapter? What is the O.D. of the suppressor where it comes in contact with the adapter? Why such a large tolerance in the bore diameter? What size round are you using?

[max power]

Just tape on a 2-liter bottle full of newspaper.

[ReconRat]

Just tape on a 2-liter bottle full of newspaper.

Loaf of bread, watch your fingers...

[flounder]

Update. I decided to do some design work myself to help out the person cutting the part as well as I love to learn in the process. As you know the adapter is to adapter a suppressor to a rifle that has different cut threads. Here is my design. I will also be creating another adapter which is extremely similar with some different thread types. I like the challenge of learning something knew and knowing I did as much work as possible myself. Onto the meat.

I currently have a barrel that is threaded 5/8x32 for a muzzle brake. Im attempting to get a suppressor that would be threaded 5/8x24. I really dont want to cut my barrel down and I also want to be able to use the same can on other rifles so I know I would need adapters. Basically what I have done is design an adapter in Alibre parametric software. I have measured out everything on my current threads as well as used the diagram from can manufacturer site for threading for their cans. Here is the design I came up with. The overall diameter of the barrel side is the same as the diameter of my rifle barrel which is .829. The overall length of the part is 1.415

On the right side is where the can would thread on and would have 5/8x24 threads. Current diameter is at .625 with a .035x30degree camfer as per the manufacture sites says as well as a bore camfer of 15 degrees for a crown.

On the inside of this pic is the spot where it would have internal threads of 5/8x32 and I have a depth of .565 which is what my threads are at now from tip of barrel to barrel shoulder. I have also put a 15 degree camfer for where the bullet would enter the adapter. Bore diameter of the adapter is .35 and was based off a measurement of my muzzlebrake which has .33. I went a bit bigger just to be safe.

Pic showing depth of .565 to attach to rifle.

Any opinions you could give would be greatly appreciated. The reason I used the Alibre software is that it should generate the machine code and anyone should be able to cut the part fairly easily with the proper CNC equipment.

Also, if you want the actual schematic diagram and part details from the design program, I would be more then happy to send them to you. I am just one of those guys that likes to do as much as possible myself and learn along the way. I would just take more pride knowing that I designed the adapter myself as opposed to buying one off the shelf from someone. I also understand that I would still have to pay someone to cut the part for me and make any changes to my schematic as well as add the threads to the part.

Edited April 29, 2009 by flounder

[Uncle Punk]

Looks like a great start. How did you establish the length of the thread that goes into the suppressor? Can I assume that the end of the adaptor buts up against a shoulder in the suppressor just like the barrel would if the adapter wasn't necessary? How do you plan to finish the adaptor? Aluminum might be another material to look at because you can have it anodized without having to compensate for any thickness. Your barrel has a shoulder? Would the suppressor or adapter stop on the end of the barrel or the shoulder?

Edited April 29, 2009 by Uncle Punk