mrhobbz Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 I just got my mustang put back together and fired it up (after throwing a set of long tubes on it) It threw a bunch of codes, including O2 sensor stuck lean on both bank 1 and bank 2 (rear sensors are disabled and I've set the O2 transport delays to where they *should* be accommodate for the headers) and both of the rear O2's have been disabled. The O2 voltages are oscillating but the fuel trims are acting nuts, off around 10% while logging. The other few codes are related to battery voltage and CAN bus/ECM issues. P2195 O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank1 sensor 1 P2197 O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank2 sensor 1 U2011 CAN bus fault U1900 Communication error with PCM B1318 Battery low voltage The battery has been sitting for a while, autozone tested it and said it was at 84% and told me I need a new battery, they also tested the alternator and said it was showing bad diodes. Does anyone know if their hand held machine is accurate in this department? I cleared the codes and drove it around for a bit but probably not long enough for them to trigger again if they are indeed legitimate. After it cools down I'm going to go ahead and check for exhaust leaks (nothing audible however) what is the best way to go about doing this? I've seen a few people using a shop vac blowing into each tail pipe and soapy water, is there a better method? Any thoughts or suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 Having worked at AutoZone I wouldn't trust their tester. advanced uses interstate testers iirc and they are a little more accurate. I always have bench tested my alternator when in doubt, it eliminates any other issues that may interfere with the testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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