Jump to content

Rabid Rabbit build


Farkas

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

UPDATE:

 

Didn't get a whole bunch done today, but progress none-the-less.

 

I did get a nice surprise on my porch, and I gotta say, the folks at Eurowise are really stand up guys. I originally contacted Yusuf with a couple questions regarding the swap and whatnot and he was extremely familiar, to say the least. They were more than happy to answer all my questions as I was trying to conduct the swap beginning to end in my head, with a few grey areas in between. After discussing with them a couple times a game plan for my swap, I decided on the Stg. 2 kit with the reinforcement brace, shortened oil pan and and pump from the MK5 R, Eurovan hydro/cable clutch setup, and the throttle cable... oh, and they threw in two awesome shirts for me :thumb up:. The quality of these parts is awesome and I can't wait to get some paint on them and installed on the motor. Money well spent if you ask me, and the guys at Eurowise did a fantastic job of satisfying me as a customer. I HIGHLY recommend doing business with them, for anyone interested.

 

I also ordered a shallow rabbit front lip from ATP, which got here pretty quick. Believe it or not, I worked out a deal with a local for the Corrado steelies in trade of some weathered small bumpers + cash. I couldn't believe the offer and took him up on it. Pretty excited that they're in decent condition, and in between painting them black, or just leaving them weathered so they look the part of the car. I have two OEM end caps on the way, and I'll have to buy two more, otherwise the bumpers themselves aren't bad at all!

 

I took the time to get some painting on the motor done today, but that's about as far as I made it. It's a pretty time consuming part, and I honestly don't have the patience for this kinda stuff lol. Parts will soon start going back on the motor. Got both the oil filter housing and the oil cooler on after I changed the gaskets.

 

OH, and the wheels I have for the car... I keep forgetting to bring them up. I originally purchased them for my '80 Corolla wagon that I sold to fund the purchase of the rabbit. The wheels are 4x114.3 so I'll have to adapt them, but they're already suitable for adapters since they're 14x6 ET19. I have been in contact with a company in NZ about getting them resized and got a good estimate on new barrels. Coming across 14" parts is near impossible, so I'm happy to finally find a line of business that can happily supply the parts I've been looking for. The wheels themselves are made by Bridgestone and called Stage-4. Incredibly rare wheels, and I don't think I've ever come across another set. Typically "JDM" wheels like SSR, Work, etc. are all welded 2 or 3-piece, but these were un-welded, and I can't be happier about that. It looks like someone gave the wheels a quick buff, but I'll be going over them and making them look near new again.

 

15771410513_ec2b0ac2d9_b.jpgIMG_1384 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

 

16365446326_6b3b72f04c_b.jpgIMG_1387 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

 

16390499632_8ccd95f098_b.jpgIMG_1392 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

 

16205523047_95bdc1ce28_b.jpgIMG_1391 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

 

16390498122_a1bf6d8408_b.jpgIMG_1395 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

 

16157788339_151003ec15_b.jpgIMG_1153 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cool build, i always say this in build threads... i wish i could do this stuff

 

anyone want a stolen GTI?

 

http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/4860707708.html

 

moldy interior FTW!!!!

 

Texas is one of those states where if you lose the title it's pretty easy to get a replacement, so most people don't covet them like ohioans.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Basically stock engine, etc? Any ideas around what power/tq do you think it will put down and how? I assume custom intake & exhaust? Stock ECU w/tuning or just stock?

 

Could definitely be a fun little car with that weight! Can't wait to see it out running around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to ask, what's the balance going to be like in the car? a US MK 1 Rabbit is between 1,795 and 2,145 (which I am assuming is the convertible automatic diesel cus that car's a brick). and you expect this car to be about 2000lbs. But from what small sources I can find weight distribution of the rabbit is somewhere in the neighborhood of 60/40 front/rear. so I guess my question is: are you taking a 1795 lb car and beefing it up to 2000 lbs and if so is all that extra 200 lbs going to be in the front making the weight distribution 70/30 or are you taking a 2150lbs car and making is 2000 lbs and pushing it closer to 50/50?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Basically stock engine, etc? Any ideas around what power/tq do you think it will put down and how? I assume custom intake & exhaust? Stock ECU w/tuning or just stock?

 

Could definitely be a fun little car with that weight! Can't wait to see it out running around.

 

More-or-less stock engine. Exhaust will have to be modified to fit, but otherwise, no other bolt-ons for the car, yet. They usually put down right around 165-170hp to the wheels and just as much torque for a healthy example. Once I get it running and work out any bugs I'll probably get a chip to liven it up a little bit, but I doubt I'll really want much more from a lump like this in such a small car. Maybe if I come across a stellar deal for some 268 cams, valve springs, lifters, and a matching chip, I'll consider it.

 

 

I have to ask, what's the balance going to be like in the car? a US MK 1 Rabbit is between 1,795 and 2,145 (which I am assuming is the convertible automatic diesel cus that car's a brick). and you expect this car to be about 2000lbs. But from what small sources I can find weight distribution of the rabbit is somewhere in the neighborhood of 60/40 front/rear. so I guess my question is: are you taking a 1795 lb car and beefing it up to 2000 lbs and if so is all that extra 200 lbs going to be in the front making the weight distribution 70/30 or are you taking a 2150lbs car and making is 2000 lbs and pushing it closer to 50/50?

 

Balance should be pretty poor, and I wouldn't be surprised if the car actually DOES flip parked in my driveway. But you guys know me- A car like this, it's the least of my concern. I'm more interested in seeing what it does in the 1320 than carving curves with it.

 

The reading that I've done regarding the weight difference between the 1.5l IDI diesel and the VR6 is actually pretty surprising to me. I expected the difference to be significant, however, multiple people have taken weights of motors, and while the VR weighs in roughly 200lbs heavier than the 1.5L, once you delete unnecessary accessories off the VR like AC/PS, the spread is only 80lbs.

 

Now, the real killer- both engines hang over the front axles differently.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5092/5451726403_efc1b09ca5.jpg

 

This photo shows a good demonstration of the difference, although a bit dramatic, but it helps you get the idea. This is what ultimately makes the VR swap less desirable for people who want to keep the mk1 driving like a go-cart.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

UPDATE:

 

She's in.

 

I recently went on night shift at work, so getting the time to work on the car has been a bit of a challenge recently. After working my shift for the week I was able to spend some more time in the garage doing more cleaning and painting more parts. Got the trans painted and most of the accessories cleaned, painted, and back on the motor. All new coolant goodies were installed, new clutch, as well as a shortened oil pan and R32 pump for a little extra room underneath. Started putting the Eurowise mounts on and decided the only thing left to do was to make room in the engine bay and consider giving it a shot.

 

Before I knew it, AC stuff was removed from the bay, shift linkages were removed, and the old exhaust manifold and down pipe were removed. I decided with the size of this motor, it was probably best I drop the engine in first, put the bolt into the mount, and use it like a hinge to swing the trans side down and slide the trans on from underneath the car, that way I don't destroy my brake master in the process of dropping the motor in. Wasn't too bad, and got the trans mated to the block pretty easy. Getting the trans mount bolt through is another story. Because it's so late in the night and my roommate is sleeping, I decided I'd just get it half way in and call it a night- pretty much exhausted as it is. I'll figure out the front mount, starter and rear mount soon, but I was eyeing the two side mounts and decided I want to raise the engine even further. There's plenty of room between the crank and the frame rail to make it happen, just a matter of figuring out how I can do it. I'll be satisfied when the oil pan is even or above the control arms. It looks like I should be able to drill a hole in the motor mount ears just above the slotted original holes, and raise the motor an additional 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. Guess we'll see what happens!

 

OH, and I'm sure a few of you are looking at the engine bay thinking, "jesus, that's filthy and he's putting the motor in?" Yeah. I've been contemplating the best way to go about that and decided I'll probably have the best luck just waiting until the car is moveable so that I can take it to the car wash and simply pressure wash the firewall, frame horns and all that good stuff to get the 30 year old grease and grime out.

 

It's pretty hilarious to see how far forward the VR sits in front of the strut towers, and the massive amount of room behind the motor. Guess that means a turbo is needed to fill that empty space :).

 

15813737993_4a97c22869_b.jpgIMG_1409 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

 

15811285574_a2f2066ce4_b.jpgIMG_1410 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

 

16432041491_3e3d3b2e54_b.jpgIMG_1414 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

 

16433800065_a48096ca2d_b.jpgIMG_1418 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

 

16246130378_739ef20dab_b.jpgIMG_1421 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

 

16246390240_863c7ec966_b.jpgIMG_1422 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

 

16247542609_0180f657b6_b.jpgIMG_1425 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

 

16247892957_d14cb2e29a_b.jpgIMG_1426 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

 

16432860682_b09470fb70_b.jpgIMG_1428 by Andrew M. Farkas, on Flickr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Impressive how compact the VR6 engine is, especially when it's sitting in a space meant for a 1.5L 4...

 

Very cool swap. Great to see you making progress so quickly. It definitely seems like the Eurowise kit - while not cheap - saves you at least a month or so by taking the guesswork out of seating the engine properly and connecting the powertrain. That's time value of money for your life far beyond the cost of the kit! :thumbup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...