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GT3 - winter refresh project


AudiOn19s

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As many of you know, I do a fair bit of track days instructing and driving the GT3. I over-maintain as much as possible but after 4 track seasons with the old girl, and probably 6000 track miles it was time to pull her apart this winter and freshen up some of the components.

 

Put it up on stands in December and have been slowly making progress as time and interest allows. Now that my first track day is just weeks away it's time to put this project into high gear and get it finished:

 

First step was tear it apart and determine a full list which is as follows:

- Replace all 4 wheel bearings **completed**

- Inspect and replace any worn monoballs (no rubber in the suspension) **completed**

- Rebuild / oil change for JRZ 3 way shocks **completed**

- New springs / spring rate change **completed**

- rebuild calipers and install speed bleeders **completed**

- Shim front control arms for more negative camber **completed**

- Fresh brake fluid - gets this all the time but still on the list

- Fresh transmission fluid - same as above

- New Plugs

- New air filter

- Pull exhaust for small revisions **completed - awaiting re-install**

- Figure out why my lithium battery isn't charging!!! (think it's the charger / maintainer not battery) **completed - bad charger has been replaced**

- Corner Balance

- Align

- Paint / Install new wing and dive planes :D

 

Most of the pictures to date are pretty boring, but will be better as the car starts to come back together.

 

Rear hub / control arm coming off:

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/C6616CE0-E107-4E4A-B08C-60B487062BCB_zpszhk95hif.jpg

 

Same for the front coming apart:

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/D684BF57-C40B-4E0B-AD04-797DEE29DFC3_zpsesbyxqb1.jpg

 

Heating the Garage :D

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/01450395-F4B2-4230-8D4C-0131CC38A8BF_zpshzzkpcux.jpg

 

As with any good project, smashed the heck out of my hand. Looks minor but I smashed it really good and was in pain for over 3 weeks. Hand swolen up soo much I couldn't get my wedding ring off for a few days.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/D93B2EAE-20C1-49A4-818E-72274FF97503_zpsnxtb2mrv.jpg

 

JRZ's out, disassembled, labled and ready to go off to the shock guy

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/26B59779-699A-41BB-A909-B567F4E72941_zpsw9v3rcy6.jpg

 

Parts showing up ready to be put to good use:

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/C296EA3E-F53D-49C4-84BD-3607FEF9D715_zpsnun60rov.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/224BB285-2886-45C5-91C2-8B967AFEC76C_zpsrtjfejpf.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/26138D3B-2A75-400A-88A3-DF1630200722_zpsw5fleatw.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/D9D7B641-AE69-49D8-AC7E-B8F0986FF5A0_zpsbfaagrsi.jpg

 

Fast Forward - Things are starting to go back together this week. Rebuilt JRZ with new springs, hubs with new bearings installed. Might as well clean things up a little bit before they go back together as well. First corner bolted up and torqued last night:

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/E7F2D5CD-286E-4625-B3D0-ADF47DD54EDF_zpsl0nlef9p.jpg

 

more to come...

Edited by AudiOn19s
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X2

 

This makes me think twice about getting rid of the frc. Seems a perfect car to build into my poverty racecar.

 

When's the completion deadline?

 

Didn't you just get it? what's next?

 

I hope to have it driving down the road no later than 4/4 giving me time to put a few miles on it, re-torque everything and then do the final corner balance and alignment shortly after that.

 

First track weekend is 4/24-26

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Didn't you just get it? what's next?

 

I hope to have it driving down the road no later than 4/4 giving me time to put a few miles on it, re-torque everything and then do the final corner balance and alignment shortly after that.

 

First track weekend is 4/24-26

 

Nice! Get to work!

 

Yes, just got it. 15 mustang is top of list. Then 15 sti, the. 15 r.

 

Car p0rn, this thread is...

 

Aaron, tweak the 'Vette...it's a great platform. DO EEET....

 

I want to, actually.

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Aaron, consider...

+ Cost of the platform, and what you get for the price

+ Availability of quality aftermarket parts

+ Relative simplicity of maintenance items

+ Performance capabilities on the autoX/track

 

I think your FRC, while it needs a few things since it's a not-often driven 1999, is a heck of a chassis to go chasing after GT3s :)

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I agree clay.

 

What pads do you run andy?

 

I forgot to post a picture. I've run hawk DT -60's the last couple years but my wife recently bought me PFC 08's that will be going on as it goes back together! She's the best!!!

 

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/5FDA80F7-64F9-4E55-B90A-8A80876BCE71_zpsmt3jmtc1.jpg

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Andy,how do your brakes hold up lets say at Mid Ohio? can't see if your running any brake ducts or not.

 

I,m asking because I,m taking the 7 to MH and PFC 08 were recommended and Hawk blues were suggested too.

 

Though not pictured, I run all the ducting from the factory cup cars both front and rear. If you look close you can see them hanging under the car on my sig pic. I've never personally had an issue over heating brakes even with the hawks which have HUGE bite and run hot. The PFC's are actually going to run cooler, be easier on rotors but will give up a little in brake torque.

 

My brother, on the other hand. Has had issues with brake heat on his FD running the hawks. Some of that may be the system, some of that may be pads...he has some decent cooling on his FD. Blue's are old school technology and work well but track pads have come along way. If you get brake dust on your wheels with blue's and it gets wet it won't come off unless you fully wash the wheels immediately.

 

Chris is swapping out the AP kit on his FD. He couldn't get PFC's but I think switched to carbotech's instead.

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Been busy but got a free 45 min or so last night so forged on.

 

Additional shims for the lower control arms to add more negative camber....yes they are small but based on probe pyrometer readings of the tires the car just needed an minor tweak.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/80DDFA81-7F22-468C-AE50-E9B5DAB8CC1D_zpsgpprab2b.jpg

 

installed next to the already rather large spacer

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/6EE8265A-8D89-457B-A191-A0A9B34F3852_zpsrfxnukt3.jpg

 

New wheel bearings

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/264A790C-B24F-4415-A8FB-A984C5455ADD_zpscgmlxmue.jpg

 

Front suspension mocked up ready for install

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/A58F25ED-1AE4-4C42-B6CB-27A3E508E9E0_zpsbdkki6oq.jpg

 

And in the car, bolted in place but not torqued yet

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/47A6CC13-E415-4DEF-A66D-621A34C8E4BF_zpsuujvztgt.jpg

 

I noticed something I didn't previously notice and that I don't like. I think at full lock I'm getting a little bit of binding between the hose for the remote reservoir on the shocks and the sway bar drop links. I'm going to change the orientation of the shocks some and route the hoses differently in order to eliminate that potential bind. Then still need to clean up everything and torque.

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Andy, could the binding be because the suspension is at full droop when it's jacked up? I'd venture that at ride height the line probably isn't engineered to be that tight...

 

No I used the floor jack to run the suspension through it's range of motion. See the picture of the suspension all assembled and ready to go back on the car. The hose that leads from the shock to the remote reservoir for the shock is attached at the bottom via a banjo fitting. That fitting, obviously has to leave the shock at a right angle but depending on how the shock is situated in the upright can change the angle at which the hose protrudes. Right now it goes directly towards the drop link, where the other side is angled towards the front allowing it more room and a better angle. I just need to situate the hose as such on this side (by turning the damper) in order to eliminate that interference. Once I hooked up the steering rack I realized the interaction was minimal but enough to warrant a bit of a change.

 

Because the remote reservoir shocks aren't OEM equipment I had to engineer the routing of that line myself. Just an oversight when I did it the first time that i'm going to correct while I've got it all apart again.

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