Trouble Maker Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 Do you mean sticking with a factory brake setup? No, I meant getting OEM rotors for the setup you are getting.... but thinking about that a bit more I don't know if that will work with your bolt pattern, bolt size, rotor hat depth requirements. If you can use 'stock' rotors for those cars, this should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rally Pat Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 I am always on the side that says "Whatever cheap garbage rotors you can find, and spend your money on quality pads". I like Porterfield's and EBC's myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokey Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 Andy's advice I'm this thread has been spot on. Brembo blanks if available, or stoptech slotted (no drilled). Carbotech xp10 to start, xp12 when you need more heat capacity. Buy good fluid and keep it fresh. As for the ABS, even a 90s ABS system is better than nothing, but I'm also not sure how it'll like having different components on it that it wasn't designed for. You'll have to test that one out, but try to keep it before ditching it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flybye Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Brembo blanks and akebono pads. Perfect all around setup imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robochan Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Brakes just slow you down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted December 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 So I am seeing some cryo treated options. Is he extra $30 or so per rotor worth it? Does it do anything for the rotor at all in situations like this? I know I can google this shit, I'd rather just ask here since I know a few people here have been HPDE'ing and autox'ing for years. Who knows what internet trolls opinion I'll read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 You got mental problems, man... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AudiOn19s Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 So I am seeing some cryo treated options. Is he extra $30 or so per rotor worth it? Does it do anything for the rotor at all in situations like this? I know I can google this shit, I'd rather just ask here since I know a few people here have been HPDE'ing and autox'ing for years. Who knows what internet trolls opinion I'll read. Never tried Cryo. Given that none of the serious racing companies use this technology on race applications I can't help but think it's just a waste of money. I looked into this once and on other metals cryo treatment is more effective, but on Iron it hardly changes anything at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1647545492 Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 I can vouch for XP10 and Xp12,s they do not screech too much on the street so you cab drive to the track with them,so one less thing to worry about. As far as rotors go there seems to be 2 schools of thought get the Gucci brand and look cool or buy cheap blanks,either way your replacing them pretty often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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