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AWD or 4WD?


BBQdDude

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Buy a Silverado or suburban with auto 4wd. It kicks in so fast you can't tell it's not in 4wd and my truck seems to do pretty well with non winter tires. If it gets too bad I push the 4wd button and go. A lot of people run 4wd all the way down the track in 10 second trucks so I don't know why you can't drive at highway speed. I trapped 116 in 4wd and I will be running way faster this summer with no worries.
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Buy a Silverado or suburban with auto 4wd. It kicks in so fast you can't tell it's not in 4wd and my truck seems to do pretty well with non winter tires. If it gets too bad I push the 4wd button and go. A lot of people run 4wd all the way down the track in 10 second trucks so I don't know why you can't drive at highway speed. I trapped 116 in 4wd and I will be running way faster this summer with no worries.

 

Technically your chevy is an AWD and a 4WD. In the auto setting it is like an AWD complete with some sort of various coupling to engage all four wheels, but in 4wd (Low) it can be locked into full time power to all 4 wheels. That's what's neat about modern cars and trucks is you can have both with a computer regulating everything.

 

The reason why they used to say you can't go highway speeds in the old 4wds is because the old mechanical systems turned all 4 wheels at the same speed. Which means if you are on dry pavement trying to make a turn you are beating up the components and tires because all four wheels are trying to turn different speeds and being forced to all turn the same speed. It makes handling spooky and the faster you goo the spookeir it gets. In jeeps if you do this it usually blows the center Trak-Lok and the front u-joints at the steering knuckle. In a straight line? I don't see the harm but there is the old wives tale that the old mechanical 50/50 transfer cases are chain drive and you don't really want them spinning 100+mph for an extended period of time. honestly all transfer cases are chain drive and some are even working full time while the truck is in 2wd so it is meant to spin at 100mph if you can get there.

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Wow, most awesome responses; thank you :)

 

UOTE=evan9381;1872557]Pissed me off when I hit something and trashed a tire about 20k old in my Subaru. Tire shop called Subaru and it was like 1/32 past what they would say was ok to just put a new tire on (IIRC, new was 10/32, old were @ 7/32).

 

Been there and done that. I ended up getting a new tire shaved.

 

There are AWD options out there with the ability to be 2 wheel drive. Older subaru's had it as simple as adding a fuse to a port labeled FWD.

 

On my 07 STI they ahd a dial to throw more at front or back axels.

 

With so many options out there, what vehicles are you considering, or are you looking for recommendations?

 

Off hand not yet but i am open to hearing them. I am thinking a 10k-15k daily. I am thinking a Jeep wrangler unlimited.

 

I don't know anything about colorado other than my friend fixes porsche 356's in Denver, but if you think you will be dealing with multi foot snow drifts on unplowed roads or have decided to partake in the many off road and camping trails - 4wd.

 

Otherwise....don't they issue you a subaru forrester when you move to colorado as some assimilation program?

 

I am thinking two months a year I might be facing this.

Damn, give me a forrester :).

 

AWD. Also buy it before you move out there. I know Subaru's bring a premium a week before race wars. Err, before winter.

 

That and I am told by a friend out there buying a car comes with a hefty fee so he advised me to buy prior to moving.

 

LOL, all this talk about whats better when in honestly comes down to tires. Getting a proper set of tires will honestly be the deciding factor.

 

Learned that with my first car that had summer tires on it. Went for a spin on 161....round and round lol. Love Blizzaks!!!

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Off hand not yet but i am open to hearing them. I am thinking a 10k-15k daily. I am thinking a Jeep wrangler unlimited.

 

 

For $10-15K for an Unlimited you are either looking at an LJ two door (2004-2006) or a 2007-2011 Pre Pentastar JK. Jeeps hold their value insanely well.

 

If you don't need a 4 door, I would go with the LJ from 2004-2005 (2006 has the 6 speed which is not popular right now). this is really the last of the inline 6 powered old school jeeps that can trace their heritage back to the original 40's CJs. Because of the long wheel base they ride like a cherokee, but it still has the option of removing the doors and top. the LJs are supposed to be the new collectable and I don't see them getting under $10K without an insane amount of miles and body damage. Rubicons are still close to $20K.

 

I am not a fan of the 3.8L non-pentastar engines in the early JKs. It is a car and mini-van engine (New Yorker and Pacifica being primary uses) that got pressed into service in the wrangler. In the non-unlimiteds its ok making at most 215hp and 245 ft/lbs, but in the unlimiteds this is underpowered. For comparison my old 4.0L inline powered YJ makes 190 hp and 250 ft/lbs in a 3000lb vehicle, the unlimited is 4,300 lbs and was hauled around by 215 hp - weak. The LJ is only about 600lbs heavier fully setup.

 

the jeep purists are going to roast me for this but if you aren't picky about having a convertible, I would look at a second generation nissan Xterra (2005-20015). 265 hp, stick, and about as close as you can get to a modern XJ cherokee. $15K should put you in a 5 year old model as long as you aren't looking for all the bells and whistles.

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On my 07 STI they ahd a dial to throw more at front or back axels.

 

That is the center locking Diff which allows adjustable percentage of power, front to rear, or to LOCK the diff. It will not allow the car the be front or rear wheel drive.

 

It may be worth while to look at an older Outback in that price range. I'm having a hard time justifying the STi every time I drive my wife's Outback. For me, it is a very functional vehicle. The STi is great fun, but I have a fun car already, and I feel a little spoiled with a fun daily.

 

You have to go with what works for you. If you are off roading , get the jeep and all the after market that is out there for it. If you are just needing some thing with room and is very able in bad weather, look at AWD SUV's. The Forester is very limited in room, IMO.

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Jones and Aaron converted me. :p

 

http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah133/PDQS4/quattro%20season_zpsizmkb1jw.jpg

 

 

Depends on your needs really. Hauling, towing, etc. and the underpinnings of a truck, then perhaps a 4x4. Even a Ridge line would work. My neighbor loves his and uses it for light towing of a trailer and all his toys. Rides like a car/SUV and has AWD for year round use.

 

If you're for a small SUV or Car AWD is a good choice. I love mine so far. 60/40 split normally but will do the Quattro thing when needed.

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Other than DDing what are you expecting to be a facing? Old school 4Runners you will see EVERYWHERE out there, they are great from parking lots to trail riding and everything in between. My 97 SR5 was purchased as a beater truck 5 years ago and with very little wrenching time has been an outstanding machine, only thing you really need to look at with them is the notorious frame rot.

 

Another suggestion if you enjoy the features and fun of an STi is the Forester XTs, most of the fun with far more ground clearance, the turbo 2.5 EJs can be plenty for not a ton of money, and I'm not at all biased because I drive both of these suggestions ;)

 

P.S. Winter tires DO make a ton of difference, you also have a completely different degree of road maintenance out there. Not like OHio where with a half inch of slow half the city shuts down and people are screaming about plows and salt.

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Technically your chevy is an AWD and a 4WD. In the auto setting it is like an AWD complete with some sort of various coupling to engage all four wheels, but in 4wd (Low) it can be locked into full time power to all 4 wheels. That's what's neat about modern cars and trucks is you can have both with a computer regulating everything.

 

The reason why they used to say you can't go highway speeds in the old 4wds is because the old mechanical systems turned all 4 wheels at the same speed. Which means if you are on dry pavement trying to make a turn you are beating up the components and tires because all four wheels are trying to turn different speeds and being forced to all turn the same speed. It makes handling spooky and the faster you goo the spookeir it gets. In jeeps if you do this it usually blows the center Trak-Lok and the front u-joints at the steering knuckle. In a straight line? I don't see the harm but there is the old wives tale that the old mechanical 50/50 transfer cases are chain drive and you don't really want them spinning 100+mph for an extended period of time. honestly all transfer cases are chain drive and some are even working full time while the truck is in 2wd so it is meant to spin at 100mph if you can get there.

 

Technically, it's got a chain in it, and there is no viscous coupler like an awd. I replaced the chain when I took it apart to put in the input for an 80e and replace the pump wear clip with a plate. I think it engages the front diff, and engages the transfer case when the wheels speed sensors detect slip. It has 4wd auto, 2wd, 4wd high, and 4wd low. It makes a bang in 4wd auto when you nail it hard because it's trying to engage the transfer case under a hard load.

 

It was my old truck that ran the 116 trap. It had a manual floor shift transfer case that is the same as some of the old transfer cases from the 80's. My new truck has a push button, which is the exact same transfer case as my old one, except it shifts with an actuator instead of the floor shift.

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Technically, it's got a chain in it, and there is no viscous coupler like an awd. I replaced the chain when I took it apart to put in the input for an 80e and replace the pump wear clip with a plate. I think it engages the front diff, and engages the transfer case when the wheels speed sensors detect slip. It has 4wd auto, 2wd, 4wd high, and 4wd low. It makes a bang in 4wd auto when you nail it hard because it's trying to engage the transfer case under a hard load.

 

It was my old truck that ran the 116 trap. It had a manual floor shift transfer case that is the same as some of the old transfer cases from the 80's. My new truck has a push button, which is the exact same transfer case as my old one, except it shifts with an actuator instead of the floor shift.

 

If I remember the old (pre 1999) trucks the actuator was actually in the front diff and the transfer case was spinning the front prop shaft even in 2WD, so 100+ mph wouldn't really hurt it in a straight line. I didn't realize the thing "banged" when it was shifting into 4WD in auto. I have to imagine it doesn't have lockers in the axle but some kind of torque compensator otherwise the handling would get all wonky shifting in and out of 2wd in the auto setting. Most LSD differentials allow for some slip in turns, otherwise we would all be driving spools, but my feeling is on a lot of these AWD/4WD setups they run a little looser than on a traditional 50/50 mechanical 4wd setup.

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I had a 2004 trailblazer that when in auto 4x4, would clunk when the rears slipped and the fronts engaged. Did that since it was new and was told that's normal. For that reason I always ran it in 4x4 Hi in the snow. My 15 Silverado in auto 4x4 is super smooth. No noise and can't really tell when it engages. It feels like an AWD vehicle. I have never put it in 4x4 Hi or Lo.
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If I remember the old (pre 1999) trucks the actuator was actually in the front diff and the transfer case was spinning the front prop shaft even in 2WD, so 100+ mph wouldn't really hurt it in a straight line. I didn't realize the thing "banged" when it was shifting into 4WD in auto. I have to imagine it doesn't have lockers in the axle but some kind of torque compensator otherwise the handling would get all wonky shifting in and out of 2wd in the auto setting. Most LSD differentials allow for some slip in turns, otherwise we would all be driving spools, but my feeling is on a lot of these AWD/4WD setups they run a little looser than on a traditional 50/50 mechanical 4wd setup.

Apparently you don't remember. The shift fork is on the input side of the transfer case.

 

You know that you don't win a debate by how much you type, right?

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I had a 2004 trailblazer that when in auto 4x4, would clunk when the rears slipped and the fronts engaged. Did that since it was new and was told that's normal. For that reason I always ran it in 4x4 Hi in the snow. My 15 Silverado in auto 4x4 is super smooth. No noise and can't really tell when it engages. It feels like an AWD vehicle. I have never put it in 4x4 Hi or Lo.

 

My truck is like your new truck, until you punch it. If you're on it hard it clunks.

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Apparently you don't remember. The shift fork is on the input side of the transfer case.

 

You know that you don't win a debate by how much you type, right?

 

it's been like 15 years since I looked at one. not everyone's memory is great. The 1999 Tahoe had a pushbutton engagement, it didn't clunk but you could feel when it transitioned. It didn't have an Auto 4wd engage though.

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AWD it doesn't just help in the snow but on wet roads too. 4wd is good too but you don't always remember to turn it on until your already in the ditch. Also if you leave a 4wd vehicle in "Auto" they have a tendency to eat up front differentials.
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I had a 2004 trailblazer that when in auto 4x4, would clunk when the rears slipped and the fronts engaged. Did that since it was new and was told that's normal. For that reason I always ran it in 4x4 Hi in the snow. My 15 Silverado in auto 4x4 is super smooth. No noise and can't really tell when it engages. It feels like an AWD vehicle. I have never put it in 4x4 Hi or Lo.

 

Make sure to turn off auto 4wd before you park.

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