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1988 M3 LS1 Swap


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So I figured I would start some documentation on this since I finished my M62 318is.

 

This is half my wanting to keep track of the project and half asking for assistance since there are a lot of LS people on this forum.

 

Here is the car as it sits now:

 

25948064794_3caf3fb1d4_z.jpg

 

25950127043_2c48bc0a9d_z.jpg

 

I can already tell I will need some help figuring out the fuel routing and alternator/starting wiring.

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When I purchased this car the guy basically said I want XXX and here are a list of parts you could buy up to include. There were easy choices like $500 for the carbon fiber wing, but he wanted $2500 for the BBK. Wilwood 6 piston front/4 piston rear kit that looked fucking sex. I looked it up and could buy one new for around that amount so it was the only 'extra' I did not. I was trolling craigslist and some kid had the exact same kit brand new with extra rotors for $600 - stupid good deal and made me feel really good about my decision.

 

The kid before me dumped a bunch of money in this thing. I have to get pictures of the exhaust, but I'd bet he spent $5000+ on the manifolds and exhaust alone.

 

The BP Automotive kit will make wiring much easier, the hardest part is figure out the wiring in the 88 M3 chassis right now and the inputs/outputs I need to interact with the wiring kit.

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First question for the LS1 gurus.

 

The wiring harness did not come with the battery, starter, alternator wiring.

 

I did find this in the OEM wiring, but confused as to what the black wire is for. I assume the red goes terminal - starter - alternator, but can I eliminate the black (ground?) wire?

 

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/dQUAAOSwPc9WyQvI/s-l1600.jpg

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I've never seen it tied into the power harness. Typically the chassis is ground and there are 1-2 wires the go from motor to chassis.

 

But yeah, I am sure I'll have no problem using it and grounding the motor.

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By exhaust I mean manifolds back. Custom made manifolds made to fit the chassis and beautiful full exhaust.

 

Motor mounts, trans mounts, headers, and exhaust were all done by a guy in Green Bay. His company is Arc Asylum. I'll snap some pictures.

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Lies - You won't approve until I put a big single in there.

 

I'm likely going to drive it for a year then start marketing the exhaust system. See if I can get someone to fork over $3000ish and use that to fund the single.

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Piecing together a proper cluster for this car. Redline closely matches LS1 capabilities, 4 cyl coding plug will feed the tach properly, and the odometer is 'rolled back' so I can keep track of how many miles I personally put on it.

 

26514320071_3a99ffcf04_z.jpg

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You may want to get in touch with Kevin Byrd. He's local up here in Detroit and he's friends with a former co-worker. I was following along with his build until I left that job, then saw the articles after the SEMA reveal. It's a very clean car.

 

Good luck!

 

http://www.hotrod.com/cars/featured/1407-1990-bmw-3-series-start-to-finish/

 

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

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That is a very clean car, much cleaner than mine will be. I want to put 5 digit miles on this thing yearly.

 

Here is question for the group. The motor has been sitting for a few years (2-3). What is the procedure to lubricate the motor before the first fire?

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You can get or make a oil pressure pot and put 2 or 3 quarts through the rear oil sending unit, or the auxiliarry port by the oil filter, if you have that one. Most used engines I have just turned over without fuel or spark. This is if they have been pulled in running condition.
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Most used engines I have just turned over without fuel or spark. This is if they have been pulled in running condition.

 

The motor was in running condition with low miles, but has been sitting for as long as three years. Is turning it by hand still safe?

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Probably need at least 20 psi, which I doubt that will do. You can certainly try it, but I would suspect that it will do close to nothing. You would be better off spending the money on a pump sprayer and hooking that up to the port. Those will produce well over 60 psi, and while not rated for oil it would do the job. All you probably need is a quart or so to prime. The rest could be dumped in the valve cover. After you are done you could invert the sprayer, and let drain, then flush with dawn and water.
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Probably need at least 20 psi, which I doubt that will do. You can certainly try it, but I would suspect that it will do close to nothing. You would be better off spending the money on a pump sprayer and hooking that up to the port. Those will produce well over 60 psi, and while not rated for oil it would do the job. All you probably need is a quart or so to prime. The rest could be dumped in the valve cover. After you are done you could invert the sprayer, and let drain, then flush with dawn and water.

This, i purchased one of the pump type pesticide sprayers from lowes then bought some pipe fittings to screw into the oil pressure sensor on my ford modular.

 

Put a quart or two in the sprayer pump the hell out of it till it almost won't pump anymore and pull the trigger on the sprayer.

 

It primed my motor perfectly pumped oil all the way up the heads to the cams and everywhere give it a couple minutes to make it everywhere it may seem like its not working but just keep pumping and spraying it will make it where it needs to.

 

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

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  • 1 year later...

I bought this car in 2015 and work/travel/moving has not allowed me to do much.

 

Shipped it back to Denver when I moved here a few months back and recently bought a house so it will be back home on Saturday.

 

Two quick pictures of some quick prep I did in preparation for the trailer (bigger tires and raising the coilovers).

 

It should be running by the end of summer. I'll keep this thread updated.

 

Before

35586772832_e3ab0e24dd_z.jpg

 

After

35756230165_ffdc52f566_z.jpg

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