Jump to content

Good oil...


Exit Wounds
 Share

Recommended Posts

Its not the "CAR" oils that cause the Issue.

Its that the Sythetic Oils do not like Wet CLutches.

I have not seen one Manufacturer say that its OK to run Synthetic in a bike with a wet Clutch.

I have alwyas been told and READ in the manuals , specifically NOT to use synthetic oil in a bike with a wet cluthch...so I dont....and I have no issues.

I Use Mobil Clean 5000 in most of my bikes with good success over the years.

Wow. Tell that to every racer in the pits across the country and who do standing starts on multiple occasions...

What manual states DO NOT USE synthetics??

Saying shit like that makes people freak out for no reason. Syn. oils are fine. Just use quality motorcycle oils in your bike. If you are an avid manual follower, you should note that the codes are listed as to what oils you SHOULD be using and car oil lacks the ingredients so, you are going against what you are preaching.

Final note as these arguments are stupid - use what works for you. Who gives a shit? You can find people that have had success running Coca Cola in the transmissions of their cars. Actually have seen this happen at an IMSA event YEARS ago... So, does it mean Coca Cola is the best choice for tranny oil in a car?

You get the idea. Everyone has two things - an asshole and an opinion...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

nope just regular old 10w 40. did you put an oem clutch back in it?

Yea, always use OEM.. I'm betting on Mobil 1 changing their formula is the culprit in my case. Just trying to get a feel for what folks have had success with drag racing. My motor is stock so a thinner oil should be ok. Reading through Brock Davidson's fourm the recommendation is Alysin 0W for stock motors maybe 20W. Problem for me is it's just easy to get my hands on when I want it and the whole 10 bucks a quart thing. As much as I flush oil that's gonna be a difficult pill to swallow.

Thanks for all the input... :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you're gonna treat your bike like a high performance machine, you should at the very least use a motorcycle oil, not a frick'n car oil!!

I personally stick with Amsoil, but Mobil 1 mortorcycle/vtwin oil is a good oil as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

made me think....

1. I wouldn't suspect oil, when looking at engine parts that tried to launch sideways.

I would however, suspect general problems with oil, if I saw evidence of problems with the oil itself.

2. The two numbers in oil weights... i.e. 15W-50 etc. The first number is the approximate weight of the multi-blend oil when it's cold at a standard temperature. That's good for one or two minutes after you start the bike. It really doesn't mean much unless you live in extreme Arctic or tropic climates. The second number however, is the weight of the oil at operating temperatures. That one should be as recommended for your engine unless there is a really good reason to be doing something else. I could get into flow rates, pressures and dynamics of oil behavior, but I would probably fall asleep. Basically these change if you do your own thing.

3. Synthetic oil is.... oil. There are exceptions about type or class of oil, but all the stuff on the shelf is fully compatible with each other, with very few exceptions. All synthetic oils are actually blends of synthetic and "regular" oil to one degree or another. We can't afford pure synthetic oil. It pretty much only exists in research labs.

4. If the JASO standards were created just for us sprocket heads, I'm happy to follow along and go with that.

5. From experience, I know that high RPM motors where the transmission gears are using the same oil, will destroy oil extremely fast. That's where you want to use a high quality synthetic oil. A high quality regular oil is fine, you just have to change it more often, when the oil breaks down quicker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

So as a side question. The manual for mine recommends 10w-40, but I have been using 10w-50. Any issues with this that I should be concerned with or change for the future? I wasn't sure on changing the weight vs viscosity number. Normal street riding with 5 or more track days a year.

(Side note) its Repsol 4T Racing 10W-50 and I am changing every 3k miles.

Edited by SJC1000rr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So as a side question. The manual for mine recommends 10w-40, but I have been using 10w-50. Any issues with this that I should be concerned with or change for the future? I wasn't sure on changing the weight vs viscosity number. Normal street riding with 5 or more track days a year.

(Side note) its Repsol 4T Racing 10W-50 and I am changing every 3k miles.

the manual for your 071000rr requires 1030.......i run 1040 u run 1050......u could run 2050 with no worries......ure good man

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remebered about this site. Thought some people might be interested in it. He used amsoil in the engine and transmission. "Million Mile Chevy

I've Driven My 1999 Chevy Van...Over 1,106,000 Miles...Made In The USA

May 18, 2008...At 2 AM CST...I-94 / Exit 10... In Roberts, WI...Odometer Turned 999,999 Miles!

The Original 350 Gasoline Engine Was Replaced October 4, 2007…At 930,599 Miles.

Still has the original transmission at 1,106,000 miles...never been overhauled."

http://900000milechevy.com/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rotella t syn 5w 40 has never failed us in the 3hr endurance bikes.

Plus I work an average of 28 track days a year and change the oil 3 times a season in the track whore with no problems or signs of significant oil breakdown.

Most instructors won't go more than 6 track days without changing the oil,hell I know a guy who won't go more than 2 track days without changing lube.

If your looking for cost effective and longevity Rotella is my fave.

You wanna spend some cash for blingtastic lube go get 50 bux worth of motul or repsol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

who paid for the testing? amsoil? if amsoil paid for the testing im sure the results wouldnt end up with amsoil being the best. yea ok...amsoil= overpriced and hype

i will stick with my 17 a gallon shell rotel t syn

not buying the test since amsoil had it funded and done

What about rotella's test?Who paid for them? Do you have a link to an idependant study?

I change the oil in my truck once a year/25,000 miles. Have never had problems with it. I know people that have used Amsoil for years (before the 25,000mi oil) and changed it past the "normal" 3,000mi interval. No problems, ever.

Did you check out http://900000milechevy.com/ ?

BUT Rotella is a very good oil too. Thats what I'd use if I didn't use Amsoil.

Just saying is all. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

who paid for the testing? amsoil? if amsoil paid for the testing im sure the results wouldnt end up with amsoil being the best. yea ok...amsoil= overpriced and hype

i will stick with my 17 a gallon shell rotel t syn

not buying the test since amsoil had it funded and done

Obviously you are happy with the oil you are using. That's great, stick with it.

I am putting this information out there for those people that would like to make an informed decision based on scientific testing. Yes, Amsoil paid for the study but don't you think they would have eliminated those categories where they did not finish first if they just wanted to hype their own oil? They did not finish first in every category. If you know of any studies conducted by other oil companies that show different findings please share them with us. I have not seen any studies by the other oil companies challenging these results. Sure some advertising like the TV commercials for Castrol Syntech, in which they claim "8x better wear protection than Mobil 1," is based on only one characteristic of an oil. This study is a compreshensive test that reviews many aspects of an oils performance.

Sure there are other oils out there that will do the job of lubricating moving parts at a much lower price. It just depends what you want out of an oil and whether you are willing to spend a bit more for a premium product. The 1972 Chevrolet Impala I owned when I was 16 years old did the job of transporting me from one place to another but I sure would not want to use it as my primary transportation today. Some people do not see the benefit of using a premium product and they will not purchase Amsoil. I understand that but I also want to put the information out there so they can review it and decide for themselves.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not directed at you Dude, but you got me looking around.

Independant motor oil comparisions seem to be few and far between. I did find this:

http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml

And here is a link explaining motor oil.

http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motor-oil-bible.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share


×
×
  • Create New...