TheManInDboX Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 So, I am looking into buying a used Ranger or Mazda 2300/2500 pickup.. 2wd extended cab.. I was curious if anyone on here has any good points to look for on these things for rust? I know the cab mounts, rear suspension shackles, and the cab corners are all things to look at for rust.. but is there any other locations like on the old Fox platform where the strut towers would rot at the sub frame? If anyone has any helpful details on this, that would be great.. Also i am 6'2".. does anyone know when the cab's changed size on those trucks? Plans: I need a truck for home improvement things.. getting lumber, tools, and other stuff for outside.. But i plan on building a 5.0 to swap into it.. So it must be a 2.3 or 2.5 ford/mazda 2wd ranger/B series.. The 2.3/5 uses the same motor mounts as the Fox convertible, as all fox convertibles start life as a 2.3 Notch.. So parts to do the swap will be much easier going this route.. Anyway.. i hopefully am posting this in the right location.. Lastly.. anyone know what i should pay for one of these in decent shape.. (presumably rust free) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 Dude, you need my truck...check out my album as I did the same thing: 1) Need "suburban hauler" 2) Find $900 '80s Ford F100/F150 3) Rebuild engine and fix things with hammers and glue (you'd be swapping in a 5.0L) 4) Rock it cheaply, and enjoy. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=5384 Next to my old 1982 Chevy C20 diesel. It was an automatic and needed a few things so I wanted a SIMPLE TEE-RUK with a stick shift. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=6070 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=5610 Yanking the old 300ci inline-6 for rebuild in 2011. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=6714 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=6768 $80 paint job in my driveway. I couldn't paint over the hood patina. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=6777 2012 picture. Front was dropped even more with FREE DJM "Dream Beams" lowered I-beams Regular cab-long bed Ford's are the shizz...they cost nothing to buy, cheap to maintain/customize and I will be going up to Mad River Mountain this weekend with my daughter in mine to go camping...with snow tires, I've NEVER had a traction problem even though it's 2WD. Plus, they haul a TON of stuff in the bed...and kids think it's super cool. The only reason I'm not driving it on the daily is the bench seat vinyl is finally giving up the ghost and it really needs to be recovered. If it had A/C, I'd drive it a lot more regularly. It's been a great truck and very reliable. Swaps - even on the cheap - will be $thousands. Why not just start off with a bigger, better, cooler platform that accepts the 5.0L (or 5.8L) easily? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spankis Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) If you stick with the ranger instead of a full-size, find yourself a longbed: http://www.fordrangerforum.com/members/the-browning-ranger/albums/some-pics-of-my-ranger/35450-dscf0391.jpg You will appreciate it if hauling 8 foot lumber and stuff occasionally. I had a 2011 Ranger with the 2.3 and a a 5 speed. I really liked the truck. The 2.3 in the later models shares displacement with the older 2.3s but is a completely different (still good) motor. If you plan to use for a while pre-swap, I'd avoid the 2.5. If your swapping it immediately, then you don't care. The shell / frame / interior / body has not changed since 98, so basically find one rust free and jump on it. If you have a preference for the several different taillight, headlight, grill, and fascia options between model years, that might impact your decision, but it's almost all interchangeable.... Edited January 27, 2017 by spankis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwashmycar Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 Just keep in mind its tax season....so it could be harder to find stuff cheap...unless people are unloading old junk after using said 'wealth' on newer stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheManInDboX Posted January 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 Dude, you need my truck...check out my album as I did the same thing: 1) Need "suburban hauler" 2) Find $900 '80s Ford F100/F150 3) Rebuild engine and fix things with hammers and glue (you'd be swapping in a 5.0L) 4) Rock it cheaply, and enjoy. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=5384 Next to my old 1982 Chevy C20 diesel. It was an automatic and needed a few things so I wanted a SIMPLE TEE-RUK with a stick shift. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=6070 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=5610 Yanking the old 300ci inline-6 for rebuild in 2011. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=6714 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=6768 $80 paint job in my driveway. I couldn't paint over the hood patina. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=6777 2012 picture. Front was dropped even more with FREE DJM "Dream Beams" lowered I-beams Regular cab-long bed Ford's are the shizz...they cost nothing to buy, cheap to maintain/customize and I will be going up to Mad River Mountain this weekend with my daughter in mine to go camping...with snow tires, I've NEVER had a traction problem even though it's 2WD. Plus, they haul a TON of stuff in the bed...and kids think it's super cool. The only reason I'm not driving it on the daily is the bench seat vinyl is finally giving up the ghost and it really needs to be recovered. If it had A/C, I'd drive it a lot more regularly. It's been a great truck and very reliable. Swaps - even on the cheap - will be $thousands. Why not just start off with a bigger, better, cooler platform that accepts the 5.0L (or 5.8L) easily? I know, it's not a quick project, but i have built a variety of 5.0 engines over the years for Fox body mustangs.. And while i would love another one, i can't get 2x4's or sheet rock into one.. and yes, an F150 with the 5.0 already in it, would be easier, but there is a weight difference, as well as a "sleeper" difference that i don't think i would get from an F150. Don't get me wrong the 4.9 300 inline 6 could be built to be as fast, and in some cases faster than a built 5.0.. But the sound.. that intoxicating sound especially with a nice cam.. It's just a project that i have always wanted to do.. Nice build BTW.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99StockGT Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 So, I am looking into buying a used Ranger or Mazda 2300/2500 pickup.. 2wd extended cab.. I was curious if anyone on here has any good points to look for on these things for rust? I know the cab mounts, rear suspension shackles, and the cab corners are all things to look at for rust.. but is there any other locations like on the old Fox platform where the strut towers would rot at the sub frame? If anyone has any helpful details on this, that would be great.. Also i am 6'2".. does anyone know when the cab's changed size on those trucks? Plans: I need a truck for home improvement things.. getting lumber, tools, and other stuff for outside.. But i plan on building a 5.0 to swap into it.. So it must be a 2.3 or 2.5 ford/mazda 2wd ranger/B series.. The 2.3/5 uses the same motor mounts as the Fox convertible, as all fox convertibles start life as a 2.3 Notch.. So parts to do the swap will be much easier going this route.. Anyway.. i hopefully am posting this in the right location.. Lastly.. anyone know what i should pay for one of these in decent shape.. (presumably rust free) Just curious why not a 2.3 turbo route? Much simpler swap, very similar power... or more.. than a normal 5.0 and far less work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 I've got a Comp Cams 252H "RV grind and a nearly straight-pipe exhaust using EFI headers (3-2 style, flows way better). Only restriction is the Carter 1bbl carb, but it definitely screams. Only weak point is the trans/u-joints are getting eaten up after dropping the rear without adjusting the pinion angle. Still, she's fast enough and torquey enough for hauling. Love this truck. Thanks for the compliment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Alex- Posted January 28, 2017 Report Share Posted January 28, 2017 Get a 1st gen Lightning and be done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DKilbourne Posted January 28, 2017 Report Share Posted January 28, 2017 He already said he wanted to do a long bed ranger, so how about we stop telling him what to do. All kidding aside, I think the 5.0 ranger is cool. Cammed 5.0s sound great too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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