Zx2guy19 Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 Hey folks...my 2007 335i has developed a pretty gnarly steering wheel sound when turning the wheel either way. It started shortly after the turbos and get's worse (or so it appears) as the car warms up, which is totally random to me. It is specific to turning the wheel, so it's 100% suspension related- possibly axles or ball joints. Any ideas? I don't mind bringing it somewhere, but initial inspections everything looks good. So, recommendations for somewhere to bring it? I don't think Dozer even has a shop anymore, does he? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyM3rC Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 if it's a clunk coming from the steering rack area, it's normal for fast BMWs. Just means it's working. Unless it's a loose or broken steering rack bolt. Or a worn component. Just interior-steering noises, no idea unless it's a normal cold-weather high-pitched squeak I've heard good things about Tom Hatem? but never used him personally https://www.hatemautomotive.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyM3rC Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 Also, a 335i doesn't have axles in the front. unless it's actually an XXXi model Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1647545492 Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 Have you ever replaced the lower control arms since you owned the car ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeto67 Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 the control arms also have a fluid filled bushing that tends to burst between 80 and 100K miles and can affect the steering. When one went in my car it also pulled the car that direction under braking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted January 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 if it's a clunk coming from the steering rack area, it's normal for fast BMWs. Just means it's working. Unless it's a loose or broken steering rack bolt. Or a worn component. Just interior-steering noises, no idea unless it's a normal cold-weather high-pitched squeak I've heard good things about Tom Hatem? but never used him personally https://www.hatemautomotive.com/ This definite doesn't sound right. It's multiple pops when I turn the wheel. Thanks for the recommendation! Have you ever replaced the lower control arms since you owned the car ? Nope, I don't believe they've ever been done. How can I verify it's them? The last thing I want to do is start slinging parts at this monster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted January 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 the control arms also have a fluid filled bushing that tends to burst between 80 and 100K miles and can affect the steering. When one went in my car it also pulled the car that direction under braking. The car has 97k miles...is it weird that it's happening when I turn the wheel either way? It does pull when braking but just to one side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeto67 Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 The car has 97k miles...is it weird that it's happening when I turn the wheel either way? It does pull when braking but just to one side. Not weird. The fluid filled control arm bushing is the rear one, so as you move the wheel through it's cycle the arm is moving front to back. Under braking the car will pull to the side with the busted bushing because the wheel is physically moving back in the wheel well. The way I found out my car had a busted one is I decided to jack the car up and remove the tire to take a look. I put the lug wrench on the nut and began to push down and the whole wheel moved back and forth in the wheel well. also there was fluid around the bushing that had sprayed on the wheel (I originally thought the fluid on the wheel was because I had driven through something). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdk 4219 Posted January 27, 2018 Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 This definite doesn't sound right. It's multiple pops when I turn the wheel. Thanks for the recommendation! Nope, I don't believe they've ever been done. How can I verify it's them? The last thing I want to do is start slinging parts at this monster. Not slinging parts at an 11 year old 100 thousand mile BMW? Most of the suspension parts in a BMW have engineered in shock counters that disable the component shortly after 80 thousand miles. I would prepare yourself for clunks, noises, increased tire wear, and more trips to the repair shop. I strange suspension noises are sometimes hard to detect, that’s where the slinging comes in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Posted January 27, 2018 Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 Popcorn machine LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1647545492 Posted January 27, 2018 Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 FWIW on mine just after 100k it was open season for maintenance suspension being up there as it was easy to tell when something was off,by the time your hearing stuff its getting pretty bad. I started to diy myself bc shops were getting silly. I remember doing the cooling system overhaul at 125k,window motors a time or two, the Vanos,blower motor in the middle of a heat wave that was fun....and a myriad of intake/gasket leaks,finally the tranny let go at 224k and I procured a used one and sold it soon after. My advice to you is to save 3 to 4k a year from now on to pay a shop or D/L a shop manual and fix yourself it isn't so difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 FWIW on mine just after 100k it was open season for maintenance suspension being up there as it was easy to tell when something was off,by the time your hearing stuff its getting pretty bad. I started to diy myself bc shops were getting silly. I remember doing the cooling system overhaul at 125k,window motors a time or two, the Vanos,blower motor in the middle of a heat wave that was fun....and a myriad of intake/gasket leaks,finally the tranny let go at 224k and I procured a used one and sold it soon after. My advice to you is to save 3 to 4k a year from now on to pay a shop or D/L a shop manual and fix yourself it isn't so difficult. Thanks for the advice. I've had the car around 4-5 months and have had the turbos done (I got a good deal on the car because they were bad) and just had the clutch/flywheel replaced because the power level is beyond what stock can hold (also planned). The car will only be driven 2-3k miles a year, so I'm not overly concerned about making repairs. Derek (turborust) is going to take care of this suspension issue for me. Not having a garage anymore sucks balls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruizin01 Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Intermediate steering shafts are prone to fail on E90's. They typically get stiff before anything else though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted April 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 Since you were all at the edge of your seat waiting for what it is, Cruizin was the winner. Intermediate steering shaft. $125 for a used one online (low miles, don't want to spend $325 on a new one) and Derek is putting it in in a few weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwashmycar Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 Now I can sleep! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruizin01 Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 If that was fails at some point I can do a new one for $275 for ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted April 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 If that was fails at some point I can do a new one for $275 for ya. Good to know, thanks man. ECS was the cheapest I found at factory price of $316 (everywhere was the same). So I figured $135 w/ shipping for one with almost half the miles was fine. Chances are I'm not keeping this car another 40k miles, so it was worth it to get used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeto67 Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 What is the thing that goes bad on them? the U-joints? Can the U-joints just be replaced or is it the whole shaft that needs to go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruizin01 Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 The joint gets tight. I don't believe its a serviceable item. At least not from BMW. There ujoints are never replaceable.. driveshafts, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted April 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 The joint gets tight. I don't believe its a serviceable item. At least not from BMW. There ujoints are never replaceable.. driveshafts, etc. Right- it's a non-serviceable part. Has just to just be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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