LS ideas

[EssFo]

Number one- Make up ya' damn mind sir.

 

 

 

 

 

 

You either commit to the budget- or go full retard. There is no middle ground here.

 

Your biggest issue to make this budget-by far- is going o be transmission selection. Everyone wants to pretend LS's are super cheap-but the only thing cheap is the initial log block purchase-and then your like everyone else on sloppy mechanics with a 15k build sheet- but all you want to talk about is your $200 motor. :dumb:

 

That being said- you can do it. Need a T5 or Nv Truck 5 speed or a Muncie 4 speed- T56 ain't cone happen in this market. bobo' Motor of your choice- random Sn95 chassis (because Fox bodies are so fuckign played out) whatever $100 Cam and used springs you find, used HP tuners, and you will be tickling 400whp in your budget constraints. This is the only way its goign to happen, and yes, I am an expert.

 

Those people are running 4L60's in their junkyard 5.3 swapped Colorado :gabe:

[2 Sweet]

Part out your Supra, keep the roller and put an LS in it?

[Geeto67]

Let's talk chassis for a second, What kind of work do you want the car to do?

 

Drag car? handling car? just all around street car?

 

For a streetable drag car I would look at either a 70's-80's G-body or a X-body 1974-1979 nova. Huge aftermarket for both and if you can't find a useable body for $2K or less then you aren't trying. Most will have v-8s and the mounts will be available to make the LS a bolt in. Look at pontiac Grand Prix's esp since they don't have the following of the monte or cutlass and they fit bigger guys (esp when you ditch the bench for race buckets).

 

I am one of the manual trans faithful, but to be honest, you are better served with an automatic for this.

 

For an auto-x car I would look at either an e30 bmw or an e36 318ti. Both can be had under $2K for a useable body, there are swap parts available and many v8 swaps done, and lots of aftermarket suspension upgrade parts available.

 

For just an all around "street" car or GT car? Jaguar XJ from 1970 to 1987. V8 swap kit is cheap and available and many are already swapped. Independent front and rear suspension, handles great, plush ride, fits bigger guys, disc brakes at all 4 corners...you can find them for $1000 in raggedy but used condition but really nice ones are like $5K tops: https://muncie.craigslist.org/cto/d/1974-jaguar-xj6-with-chevy/6587860180.html

https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/d/1987-jaguar-xj6/6588305732.html

 

downside is that manual swaps will be a little hard since they only sold stick versions of these cars in england/europe so you'll need to import the pedal box. Upside is most of them used chevy TH400 transmissions so the muncie trans to t56 conversion mounts for old musclecars makes it a bolt in deal.

[coltboostin]

Those people are running 4L60's in their junkyard 5.3 swapped Colorado that blow up in half a pass under any real power :gabe:

 

Fixed

 

My $2500 budget is literally JUST FOR AN ENGINE .

 

Thanks for the clarification, but a budget "just for an engine" makes no sense to me unless you had every other associated part for the build already. You have to consider the cost for everything in any real budget for, well anything in life. I mean, when you budget for your family expenses for the month, do you just look at the cost of Milk and Cheerios and call the budget done?!

 

Im lost here, so I'll just walk out of this one. GLWbuild!

[zeitgeist57]

Are you selling the Supra?

[Robochan]

You could lease a challeneger for a good while with that budget and it would probably win against a LS swap MK3.

[Lauren]

What's the cheapest LS engine to buy. I fully plan on lsx swap in my range rover. Already sourced the adapter plate and mounts.

[Geeesammy]

Fixed

 

 

 

Thanks for the clarification, but a budget "just for an engine" makes no sense to me unless you had every other associated part for the build already. You have to consider the cost for everything in any real budget for, well anything in life. I mean, when you budget for your family expenses for the month, do you just look at the cost of Milk and Cheerios and call the budget done?!

 

Im lost here, so I'll just walk out of this one. GLWbuild!

 

Literally just the longblock. You are reading way too far into this.

 

I have $2500 and I'm wanting to put together an ls engine. I'm not sure how else I can put this dude.

 

This is like saying "I have $5 for oreos and $7 for milk, what's the best I can get" if you want to go the condescending prick route.

[coltboostin]

 

I have $2500 and I'm wanting to put together an ls engine. I'm not sure how else I can put this dude.

.

 

 

So after you put it together, are you just going to roll it into your living room and look at it? Is the other 85% of the build going to magically fall from the sky?

 

And listen, its the internet. I get it. It may not seem like I am trying to help, but I am. I am just saying its impossible to give accurate advice here without knowing 1) Your actual goals (not your hopes and dreams) 2) Your TOTAL budget. Again unless you had a car/trans/chassis in hand (as Lauren below) just giving a price/opinion on an engine, for me, is about impossible. But if you have $2500 to spend on only an engine, and thats all your buying- Aluminium Escalade 6.2L should be the only thing on your radar.

 

 

What's the cheapest LS engine to buy. I fully plan on lsx swap in my range rover. Already sourced the adapter plate and mounts.

 

Any $200 4.8/5.3 or 6.0 (if you get lucky) you find.

[JoeNova]

400 flywheel HP 5.3/60e swap I did in a 69 Chevelle on a $2500 TOTAL budget:

 

The 5.3:

-F-body pan and pickup tube. Modified the stock truck windage tray.

-Achor Mounts part #2142. $3/each from Summit, $6/each at local parts store.

-ICT Billet Mounts part #551628. $35/pair from Summit.

-LS1 MLS head gaskets, part #12498544. $38/pair at Summit.

-Stock LS7 lifters, less than $100 on ebay.

-Howards single beehive springs part #98113, $120/set from Summit.

-Howards 222/225 112 LSA Cam. My GO-TO for mild 5.3. Part #190245-12, $360 from Summit.

-Speed Engineering 1 3/4" A-body headers part #25-1025-1, $250.

-Dorman Power steering Pulley, part # 300-201, $19.

-91" 6-rib belt, works great with the small case alternator and Dorman PS pulley.

 

For Trans:

-$400 rebuilt 4L60e

-TCI Fastgate shifter

-Stock Driveshaft shortened 5"

-2200 stall converter

-Stock trans crossmember, moved back a couple of inches. Drilled 1 hole for Mount.

 

Fuel:

-Inline Walbro 255

-Vette filter and regulator

-20' of Summit Twist-tite -6 AN Pushlok hose.

-ICT billet pushlok fittings.

-Unmodified stock tank, stock pickup goes to fuel pump, return goes into a vent.

-Returnless truck rails.

 

Cooling:

-Stock 2000 truck upper radiator hose.

-F-body fans (they fit these radiators perfect).

-40-amp self-resetting breaker runs both fans at the same time.

 

Everything else stock.

The exhaust on the car was 2" crimp-bend exhaust, 1 5/8" at the bends.

It has a 2.56 rear gear ratio. First gear tops out at 70, 3rd at 130 lol!

 

The results?

312whp, 320 ft-lbs at the wheels on the heartbreaker dyno through a 2" crimp bent exhaust thats 1 5/8" at the bends, and an unlocked auto trans. It drives like a STOCK 5.3.

 

______________________________________________________

 

Want a manual trans? Tons of options.

-NV3500

-LT1 T56 +$500 to convert to LS1 T56.

-LT1 T56 and something to cut the bellhousing to bypass the LS1 conversion.

-LS1 T56

-CD009 with adapter plate

-Any old GM 4-speed, just put on a big block bellhousing.

 

Want a T56 magnum? Get a TR6060 from a Camaro for about the same price as a T56. Its the GM production version of the T56 Magnum. They can be used with a few parts.

 

 

There's two considerations when it comes to 4.8/5.3/6.0.

Power and Cost.

 

The larger engines will make more power.

EVERY part you have to buy for a swap, and every aftermarket part you buy aside from rotating assembly will likely be 100% interchangeable between all 3 engines, so there will be no added cost for a 6.0 compared to a 4.8. The only added cost will be the initial purchase.

 

So for the $2500 5.3/60e swap that makes 400 HP, I could have spent another $600 and picked up a 6.0 and made 450 HP on the same setup. $3100 for a 450 HP 6.0/60e swap.

[Geeesammy]

I've got a car to do it in, a kit I'm going to use to drop it in and a trans already picked out. I'm literally just needing the basics on cam selection and ecu selection.

 

My actual goals are to have something that makes great power throughout the powerband that I can beat the shit out of. If it makes 400ish wheel that's fine.

 

The trans isn't in hand but im going to use a t56 magnum as I've stated earlier in this thread. I'm not gonna buy a beat t56 out of an fbody for 2200 when I could just get a magnum for a little more and have no worries

[Cordell]

You may want to research shifter placement, there are a ton of options. However short of a remote mount shifter like the newer TR6060, the f-body/GTO T56 has the shift box much further back then your typical Magnum trans.

 

So let's make it simple, buy LQ9, install damn near any camshaft, and you'll make 400ish wheel. Or buy an LQ4, buy some used 799 heads to bump compression, install same what the fuck ever camshaft, and make over 400 wheel. Spend a little more on some head porting or an intake and make a little more.

 

Picking out a camshaft is where you'll get a different opinion from everyone. Spend some time reading camshaft stuff on Brian Tooley's or Texas Speed's or Cammotion's websites. Person nally for a weekend toy, as opposed to a drag car, I'd want something in the 23x duration, .550-.625 lift cams. Would be a decent option in a 6.0l.

[Geeesammy]

You may want to research shifter placement, there are a ton of options. However short of a remote mount shifter like the newer TR6060, the f-body/GTO T56 has the shift box much further back then your typical Magnum trans.

 

So let's make it simple, buy LQ9, install damn near any camshaft, and you'll make 400ish wheel. Or buy an LQ4, buy some used 799 heads to bump compression, install same what the fuck ever camshaft, and make over 400 wheel. Spend a little more on some head porting or an intake and make a little more.

 

Picking out a camshaft is where you'll get a different opinion from everyone. Spend some time reading camshaft stuff on Brian Tooley's or Texas Speed's or Cammotion's websites. Person nally for a weekend toy, as opposed to a drag car, I'd want something in the 23x duration, .550-.625 lift cams. Would be a decent option in a 6.0l.

 

Shifter placement is a big question mark right now. I'm going to look into that tonight and see what's what. The magnum has 2 shifter options, as long as one is close then so be it

[Cordell]

Shifter placement is a big question mark right now. I'm going to look into that tonight and see what's what. The magnum has 2 shifter options, as long as one is close then so be it

 

The whole reason I didn't just buy a Magnum when I swapped my car is because it doesn't put the shifter even close. The are some companies who modify the Magnum to use the f-body tailhousing but it adds alot to the price. Honestly I wish I had just coughed up the money for it.

[EssFo]

900 HP stock T56 crew checking in.

[Geeesammy]

900 HP stock T56 crew checking in.

 

That doesn't negate the fact an fbody t56 goes for $2k+ and a magnum is $3k.....

[JoeNova]

That doesn't negate the fact an fbody t56 goes for $2k+ and a magnum is $3k.....

 

When you find an F-body T56 for that price, it usually includes everything. Bell housing, clutch, shifter, mount, slave cylinder, etc. Otherwise they're closer to $1500.

 

For $3200 for a T56 magnum, you still have to buy clutch/flywheel, shifter, bellhousing, slave cylinder, mount, speed sensor, etc. $3k? You'll be in it $4500+ all said and done, making an F-body T56 less than half the cost.

[Zx2guy19]

Hey, just curious, what's your total motor budget? It'll be tough to build the whole car for $2500.

 

 

 

 

:gabe:

[zeitgeist57]

Was looking at AFR heads after JoeNova's build breakdown yesterday....

$2500.

Just for the heads.

 

Yeah, Grant's gonna want to get a pullout 4.8 motor/ECU and stab it in with a bolt-on used T56 to stay around $2500. Add bolt-on mods as the budget allows down the road, but just get the car running/driving for now.

[Geeto67]

so...what's the chassis grant? or is that a secret?

[Red Beard]

Kerry and JP are making a great point too, you need to decide your end goal with the car first. Both in power and function.

 

But why bother with an ls swap in a hooptie, when the supra with the 1jz-gte is proven capable with the same kind of money you are willing to put into the whole ls swap? Upgrade to a big single, stud the head, bigger fuel pump/injectors, ecu/tune and you're done. The 154r is good for around 500hp reliably stock, and 900+ with a mild rebuild kit. Hell you could have all the parts shipped and installed in a weekend.

[Geeesammy]

Kerry and JP are making a great point too, you need to decide your end goal with the car first. Both in power and function.

 

But why bother with an ls swap in a hooptie, when the supra with the 1jz-gte is proven capable with the same kind of money you are willing to put into the whole ls swap? Upgrade to a big single, stud the head, bigger fuel pump/injectors, ecu/tune and you're done. The 154r is good for around 500hp reliably stock, and 900+ with a mild rebuild kit. Hell you could have all the parts shipped and installed in a weekend.

 

They might be good for that, but they shift like trash, they shred third gear and the countergear, those aren't sold anymore so you have to buy a whole.new r154 and then rebuild that.

 

 

Literally 4 posts up

 

"

My actual goals are to have something that makes great power throughout the powerband that I can beat the shit out of. If it makes 400ish wheel that's fine. "

[Red Beard]

They might be good for that, but they shift like trash, they shred third gear and the countergear, those aren't sold anymore so you have to buy a whole.new r154 and then rebuild that.

 

 

Literally 4 posts up

 

"

My actual goals are to have something that makes great power throughout the powerband that I can beat the shit out of. If it makes 400ish wheel that's fine. "

 

I didn't see that. But I understand just the same. So that's where the decision to upgrade the trans comes in first, that or shoehorn a 160 into it lol. Either way, working with the platform you already have would be a cheap and quick upgrade for the same if not better result than starting from scratch. That was my only point to consider.

[Geeesammy]

I didn't see that. But I understand just the same. So that's where the decision to upgrade the trans comes in first, that or shoehorn a 160 into it lol. Either way, working with the platform you already have would be a cheap and quick upgrade for the same if not better result than starting from scratch. That was my only point to consider.

 

A v160 costs over double what a t56 magnum setup does these days, plus nearly all of the internal parts are discontinued. Not to mention the shifter location is 6" further back than the factory location

[STEVE-O]

There is a guy in Pickerington selling a 200k mike fbody that runs and move bit is not street able and missing a few body piece, sadly has a auto trans with it hit only wants $2500 for it all