Sully Posted August 23, 2019 Report Share Posted August 23, 2019 I'm ready to pull the trigger on a detached garage. Due to the area and space available, I can do a 24x30. I've been reading about metal vs wood. I don't know which route to go. I like the durability and easy installation of metal, but I also want to be able to work in the building in the winter time, which is where I think being able to insulate a wood building would be more beneficial. I'm not sure if a metal building can be insulated? And then what about hanging items on the wall, like a peg board, tools, etc. With a metal building there's nothing on the inside of the wall to hang stuff from, except steel posts. A wood building would be easy to insulate and hang drywall. Those of you that have detached garages/workshops, what kind do you have, and what do you like/dislike about it? What would you do differently if you could build a new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buck531 Posted August 23, 2019 Report Share Posted August 23, 2019 I have a detatched 24x24 block garage. Hanging things suck as I have to get a concrete bit for my drill and then concrete screws and such. The garage is a pile of shit and most likely I'm going to have it torn down and build a larger garage further back on the property in a few years. I'll most likely end up doing a wood framed garage then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg1647545532 Posted August 23, 2019 Report Share Posted August 23, 2019 What's the price difference? I'm having a new garage built right now, wood construction, it never occurred to me to go with metal (not sure I could where I live) but I feel like what I'm getting is fairly affordable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmrmnhrm Posted August 23, 2019 Report Share Posted August 23, 2019 Why not have a metal skin outside on steel studs, have foam insulation sprayed, then hang peg board on the inside of the studs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwashmycar Posted August 23, 2019 Report Share Posted August 23, 2019 Why not have a metal skin outside on steel studs, have foam insulation sprayed, then hang peg board on the inside of the studs? Steel studs are $$$$ Could always go metal siding on the wood frame, but at that point you would just be spending extra for the metal. Only cost effectiveness of a metal building is its 'post and beam' sort of assembly....and you can get higher ceilings typically....bigger you go the most cost-effective metal is... for 24x30, its likely wood is the answer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin5s Posted August 23, 2019 Report Share Posted August 23, 2019 pole barn foam board insulation... that's what I have out back... works great, I'm out in a t-shirt in the middle of winter working on vehicles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky31186 Posted August 23, 2019 Report Share Posted August 23, 2019 I have a pole barn with metal siding. I studded and insulated the walls. Perfectly fine in the winter. Why not go that route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmrmnhrm Posted August 23, 2019 Report Share Posted August 23, 2019 Steel studs are $$$$ Could always go metal siding on the wood frame, but at that point you would just be spending extra for the metal. Only cost effectiveness of a metal building is its 'post and beam' sort of assembly....and you can get higher ceilings typically....bigger you go the most cost-effective metal is... for 24x30, its likely wood is the answer Well, given that it's a out/detached garage, which (for us) probably means lifts, wouldn't it be nice having 10ft walls instead of 8ft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractor Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 I'm planning to start my detached garage soon as well and have been seriously considering these guys https://www.stroudsbuildingsupply.com/pole-barn-kits I really like the steel trusses for added ceiling height and the ease of me building most of it myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cstmg8 Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 Well, given that it's a out/detached garage, which (for us) probably means lifts, wouldn't it be nice having 10ft walls instead of 8ft?Mines being built next month with 12' lol. You'll want more than 10'. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cstmg8 Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 Metal is cheaper to get size for an outbuilding. If you're going to "finish/insulate" the inside, you'll likely frame it out in wood anyway. Only other option would be to have the inside spray foamed. Like Adam said, 24x30 would make sense in wood. Amish are building me a 28x30 for $16k, everything but the siding (I'm doing concrete siding), and the concrete floor. They'll have it done in 2 days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin5s Posted August 26, 2019 Report Share Posted August 26, 2019 I have a pole barn with metal siding. I studded and insulated the walls. Perfectly fine in the winter. Why not go that route That's what I'm saying... my pole barn garage is completely comfortable in the winter time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LJ Posted August 27, 2019 Report Share Posted August 27, 2019 Watch some of RR Buildings videos on YouTube. He is a post frame builder. He goes through how he finishes put the interiors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sully Posted August 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2019 Ok, so I know I need to get a permit first, which I am working on. From there which would you typically do first, have the concrete poured, or build the building and then have the concrete poured afterwards? Does that depend on which type of building I go with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTaylor751647545500 Posted August 27, 2019 Report Share Posted August 27, 2019 From what I've seen (LOTS of builds on garage journal), the floors get poured after the building is constructed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwashmycar Posted August 27, 2019 Report Share Posted August 27, 2019 ^^^yep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted August 28, 2019 Report Share Posted August 28, 2019 To echo Buck, my garage is block as well. Fuck that. I can't wait to tear it down and put in something wood frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otis Nice Posted August 28, 2019 Report Share Posted August 28, 2019 Wood frame pole barn with metal sides/roof. Foam insulation. Concrete poured after. Maintains 70 easy in the dead of winter and that's out in a field with no wind break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harmonda Posted September 5, 2019 Report Share Posted September 5, 2019 I had an amish pole barn built at my last place...the two things you can't fix easily after the fact are ground floor ceiling height and the quality of the slab. I got the ceiling height right...not the slab. The company I hired subbed out the concrete work. Jokers came in from out of town site unseen...ordered concrete to be delivered late in the day...and asked me if I knew where they could rent equipment. It was 4 guys in a car with no tools whatsoever. Needless to say...my builder refunded 100% of the floor cost but I had a shitty slab the whole time I lived there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sully Posted September 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2019 I can't go too crazy with ceiling height due to zoning restrictions, but what would be a good ceiling height for a garage that will have a lift in it? Is 10 feet enough? I don't need to be able to stand under a vehicle, just enough height that I can work under it, even if that means sitting on a rolling shop stool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwashmycar Posted September 5, 2019 Report Share Posted September 5, 2019 Even if you are in a zoning district that maxes out at 15' as many do, you can probably put in an 11' wall with a low roof pitch. If it is a metal building, roof pitches can even be lower. If you are wood framing, just vault it...with scissor trusses or is stick framing, instead of ceiling joists just use the collar ties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin5s Posted September 6, 2019 Report Share Posted September 6, 2019 I can't go too crazy with ceiling height due to zoning restrictions, but what would be a good ceiling height for a garage that will have a lift in it? Is 10 feet enough? I don't need to be able to stand under a vehicle, just enough height that I can work under it, even if that means sitting on a rolling shop stool. 10 is too short man... with a lift, you'll want 13-15 just think if you're truck is 6.5 foot tall by the time you deal with suspension travel and lift, you are only putting that thing 3 feet off the ground with a lift and that's not including if you have lights.... you're still laying on the ground so then what's the point of having a lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harmonda Posted September 6, 2019 Report Share Posted September 6, 2019 I went 12. Although it was a two story with a half-loft. So half the structure had 24' ceilings. I have an extra tall/long/wide 4-post lift. So I was able to put a crew cab 4x4 up all the way and couldn't even reach the undercarriage without lowering it some. Lots of room to spare. With that zoning restriction I would consider a shed roof. (like a flat roof but slightly sloped...1:12) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBAUCLAPlaya Posted September 10, 2019 Report Share Posted September 10, 2019 Sorry if hijacking, but looking for similar feedback... I'm looking to build a roughly 30x26 garage front-load garage in Hilliard (HOA community) but needs to attach to my existing side-load garage and be "harmonious in design" with rest of house including hardie-board siding, brick, windows. I've been in contact with Garage Guru's, Grand garages and pole-barns, and Franklin garage builders. Does anyone else have recommendations of someone I can contact to bid? Looking for someone who can handle everything - drawings, electric, concrete (both pad & driveway modification), paint, underground drains, etc. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spankis Posted September 10, 2019 Report Share Posted September 10, 2019 Don't know if he goes that far, but Steve Eversole with Eversole Builders did great work for my dad. He is primarily post frame but does conventional construction also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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