89 Jeep Wrangler?

[Richard Cranium]

I hate this. My wife has been hot on buying a jeep for a couple years now. A friend of a friend of hers is selling an 89 Wranger. Claims nothing is wrong with it and he daily drives it. Apparently it's black underneath a puke green plastidip job. 5 speed manual, 4 cylinder, 120k miles. What do I need to watch out for?

[Mitch]

the 4 cyl is what you have to watch out for. Slowest thing on the road. Mail trucks are faster.

Then rust. everywhere.

frame floorboards fenders windshield frame.

Kerry will pipe up here, I'm not sure if those had the renault trans or not

[zeitgeist57]

Rick, you and I go way back. You know how I operate.

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Unless it’s $2k or less, do NOT get a 4-cyl Wrangler.

 

All the common YJ issues (keep in mind they are now 30+ years old!!!) plus they are utterly hazardous to drive on the highway. And I just drove a 1975 Dodge RV 1,200 miles with my family in back. I almost bought one a few years back but knowing it would hardly ever see a highway.

 

4-cyl Jeeps should be classified as low-speed neighborhood vehicles.

[Geeto67]

Since you live close by, I'm happy to look at any Jeep YJ with you. I've been a jeep guy all my life and a YJ owner for 25 years.

 

As Mitch pointed out the I4 is just about the worst thing about any old jeep. factory rated at 117/135 hp/tq if you saw 80 hp to the wheels consider yourself lucky. the I4 drivetrain is usually OBDI FI, ax5 trans, Dana 30 front and Dana 35 rear axles with 4.11 gears in open diffs. Think about that for a second - jeep had to put 4.11 gears in a jeep with 26" tall stock tires to get it to move at a safe pace in traffic. If you were looking for a jeep to v8/tranny swap into and then lift 3 inches and put on 33s I'd say you found your candidate - but driving a stock I4 anywhere that requires you to get on a highway or go over 50mph is miserable. The engine is un-killable though, easy to service, and bone stock can climb up a wall in low gear, making it a good farm jeep.

 

1989 is before they started galvanizing so rust will be...well..everywhere. Check both frame ends by the spring shackles and by the trans crossmember/skid plate (esp where it bolts to the body). Body rust will be floors, right side above the jeep emblem where there is a metal structural member, rockers, cowl, windshield, pretty much everywhere there is metal in an '89 jeep body it will rust there.

 

check the body mounts. They are a pain to do if rusted, and even if not rusted. you want to see that they have been done by someone else.

 

Do you expect more than 2 people in this wrangler? 1989 has the straight rear bar like the old aftermarket CJ roll bars. Personally, as someone who rolled a cj7 in soft beach sand and lived, I can tell you I wouldn't put anybody in the back seat of a wrangler with the straight bars. 1992-1995 have the "family style" roll bar which are much safer.

 

Jeep computers are old enough now that most are starting to need a rebuild. There are lots of services that do this, so it's not hard to get one rebuilt, but the capacitors in them go bad and you get no spark.

 

ax5 5 speeds are pretty weak. any powershifting usually wipes out the syncros. If you get on it full throttle and then get right off of it and it jumps out of gear, hard pass as that tranny is on borrowed time.

 

check that the 4wd actually works. The 4wd on these are vacuum actuated axle disconnect and they fail over time. most people put in a manual disconnect, or permanently engage the front axle - it's still an open diff - jeep made the front axle disconnect to save stress on the front axle steering u joints - they got rid of it for the TJs.

 

If you are looking for a YJ, the best one to get is a 1993-1995 4.0L 5speed manual that hasn't been lifted or messed with. Bodies are galvanized so there will be less rust (not no rust, but less), and the 4.0L HO with the ax15 is a solid drivetrain choice making 198hp and somewhere around 250 ft/lbs. They have hydraulic clutch actuation what is external to the bellhousing (unlike earlier models).

 

honestly, if it is a clean body and frame it might still be a good deal for a swap candidate later. lots of people swap chevy v8's into them and the 4cyls are preferred because they don't have the big bulky 6cyl engine mount bosses that need to be cut off. Advance adapters has all you need to do a swap, and even a 200hp mild chevy small block v8 in a stock chassis will make the thing lively. 5.2L magnums with nv3500 5 speeds out of dodge dakotas are also an interesting swap that is getting popular.

 

Let me know if you have any questions. you can also stop by the house and I can show you all the places my yj is rusting so you know where to look, lol.

[Otis Nice]

I'll mimic what's been said. Buddy had a 4 cyl years ago. I didn't even want to ride it in. Terribly under powered. If it's just a toy to be cruised in time to time whatever but I wouldn't buy one as a DD. Also, the rust thing as Mitch mentioned.

[Richard Cranium]

Since you live close by, I'm happy to look at any Jeep YJ with you. I've been a jeep guy all my life and a YJ owner for 25 years.

 

As Mitch pointed out the I4 is just about the worst thing about any old jeep. factory rated at 117/135 hp/tq if you saw 80 hp to the wheels consider yourself lucky. the I4 drivetrain is usually OBDI FI, ax5 trans, Dana 30 front and Dana 35 rear axles with 4.11 gears in open diffs. Think about that for a second - jeep had to put 4.11 gears in a jeep with 26" tall stock tires to get it to move at a safe pace in traffic. If you were looking for a jeep to v8/tranny swap into and then lift 3 inches and put on 33s I'd say you found your candidate - but driving a stock I4 anywhere that requires you to get on a highway or go over 50mph is miserable. The engine is un-killable though, easy to service, and bone stock can climb up a wall in low gear, making it a good farm jeep.

 

1989 is before they started galvanizing so rust will be...well..everywhere. Check both frame ends by the spring shackles and by the trans crossmember/skid plate (esp where it bolts to the body). Body rust will be floors, right side above the jeep emblem where there is a metal structural member, rockers, cowl, windshield, pretty much everywhere there is metal in an '89 jeep body it will rust there.

 

check the body mounts. They are a pain to do if rusted, and even if not rusted. you want to see that they have been done by someone else.

 

Do you expect more than 2 people in this wrangler? 1989 has the straight rear bar like the old aftermarket CJ roll bars. Personally, as someone who rolled a cj7 in soft beach sand and lived, I can tell you I wouldn't put anybody in the back seat of a wrangler with the straight bars. 1992-1995 have the "family style" roll bar which are much safer.

 

Jeep computers are old enough now that most are starting to need a rebuild. There are lots of services that do this, so it's not hard to get one rebuilt, but the capacitors in them go bad and you get no spark.

 

ax5 5 speeds are pretty weak. any powershifting usually wipes out the syncros. If you get on it full throttle and then get right off of it and it jumps out of gear, hard pass as that tranny is on borrowed time.

 

check that the 4wd actually works. The 4wd on these are vacuum actuated axle disconnect and they fail over time. most people put in a manual disconnect, or permanently engage the front axle - it's still an open diff - jeep made the front axle disconnect to save stress on the front axle steering u joints - they got rid of it for the TJs.

 

If you are looking for a YJ, the best one to get is a 1993-1995 4.0L 5speed manual that hasn't been lifted or messed with. Bodies are galvanized so there will be less rust (not no rust, but less), and the 4.0L HO with the ax15 is a solid drivetrain choice making 198hp and somewhere around 250 ft/lbs. They have hydraulic clutch actuation what is external to the bellhousing (unlike earlier models).

 

honestly, if it is a clean body and frame it might still be a good deal for a swap candidate later. lots of people swap chevy v8's into them and the 4cyls are preferred because they don't have the big bulky 6cyl engine mount bosses that need to be cut off. Advance adapters has all you need to do a swap, and even a 200hp mild chevy small block v8 in a stock chassis will make the thing lively. 5.2L magnums with nv3500 5 speeds out of dodge dakotas are also an interesting swap that is getting popular.

 

Let me know if you have any questions. you can also stop by the house and I can show you all the places my yj is rusting so you know where to look, lol.

 

This is exactly what I was looking for. I think it would be fun to have a jeep, but the wife is crazy about the idea and would most likely jump on any deal she can find. Pulling her back from a bad deal is my biggest concern. There will be NO mods, motor swaps, etc for this because she doesn't have the money for the jeep itself, much less a lot of upgrades. Unfortunately this one is in Logan, so doubt I could get it up here for an inspection. All the talk of rust makes me VERY leary of what the plastidip job is covering up. Dude want's $4500 for it which I think is crackhead high, unless it genuinely is perfect and all the above issues with trans, ecu, etc... have been handled.

[Richard Cranium]

Thanks guys. Think I dodged a bullet on this one. Based on his price and I mentioned the rust and transmission to her she decided to back peddle on this deal. Kerry, I owe you a beer. Otis, Mitch, and Clay you're welcome to join us.

[Geeto67]

$4500 for a 4cyl would have to be showroom perfect.

 

If you can weld, you can fix any rust problem on a YJ body - they sell all the factory spec metal panels and the whole body is spot welded together. the nice thing about wranglers is they have no real sound deadening and the carpet just lays in there so you can look behind any panel and see if it's hiding something. you can even buy a brand new fiberglass tub for like $2K if you find a solid chassis/drivetrain with a rough body.

 

I personally don't like them so I am going to hate myself for suggesting this but....automatic 6cyl 4.0L wranglers are way cheaper than manual ones. I would rather have a 6cyl auto than a 4 cyl manual wrangler, and not as many auto ones end up lifted.

 

Edit:

Thanks guys. Think I dodged a bullet on this one. Based on his price and I mentioned the rust and transmission to her she decided to back peddle on this deal. Kerry, I owe you a beer. Otis, Mitch, and Clay you're welcome to join us.

 

no worries. If she gets a wild hair for one again, lmk and I'll help you out. There is a lot to like about a YJ, but it isn't for everyone, and I find that most people who say they want a YJ to just cruise around in really want a stock TJ with a soft top and no doors.

[Mitch]

To dogpile on, the YJs have front leaf springs, the TJ ditched those. Discussing ride quality in any short wheel base jeep is laughable though.

[Skinner]

not sure what the budget is but if you can find one thats stock and clean look for a LJ. they are longer then TJs but tend to pull a premium.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/resources/lj-wrangler-specs

[gillbot]

Just get a JL and be done.

[Geeto67]

Rick, is she looking for a DD jeep or a fun summer toy jeep?

 

For a DD - I would echo above and look for an LJ and a low interest credit union loan to finance it. Or buy a JK.

 

If it is a fun summer toy, YJ is fine, so is an early high mile TJ. Remember a lot of Jeeps pre 2000 TJ come without A/C. In fact you can still buy a new jeep without a/c although dealers don't stock them as much as they used to. The majority of YJ's won't come with A/C and it's $950 to add it to one, jeep air still makes the kit Mopar used to add AC to the YJ's https://jeepair.com/collections/wrangler-ac-kits

[Richard Cranium]

She has a mint 2000 Toyota Tundra we found as a garage queen that was immaculate. That's her daily driver. She wants something fun for the summer since we sold her Harley Sportster. No off roading capability needed, which will discourage her from taking it off road and breaking things I have to fix. No A/C needed. I think the big thing is top off, no doors, cruising around in the summer.

 

I would guess her budget for a jeep is about $3000. Keeping her from buying a shit pile just because it's in her price range is my primary goal.

[Otis Nice]

I would guess her budget for a jeep is about $3000. Keeping her from buying a shit pile just because it's in her price range is my primary goal.

 

Good luck. I mean that with as little sarcasm as possible.

[Richard Cranium]

Good luck. I mean that with as little sarcasm as possible.

 

I completely understand.

[gillbot]

Jeep prices are crazy, and one thing I learned is there really isn’t an off time to buy. Summer, everyone wants the top off. Winter everyone wants the 4wd so they hold their value sometimes too well. I bought a JK a bit back and ended up trading it in. Ironically I got a great deal on it new that when I traded it in after a few years I got $500 less than what I paid. That’s why I typically buy new. When you get the incentives right and work pricing hits good, it’s almost a no brainer especially since they hold value so well.

[Robochan]

Just get anything besides a Chrysler product and be done.

 

I agree.

[Tractor]

I wouldn't bother with any wrangler older than the TJ's. The YJ is gonna suck unless your only goal is a total ground up build and you like to punish yourself turning it into a TJ. My Dads neighbor is one such individual, he builds some nice looking Jeeps in his garage, but they still aren't TJ's so you'd have to really like Jeeps to want to drive it.

[Richard Cranium]

I wouldn't bother with any wrangler older than the TJ's. The YJ is gonna suck unless your only goal is a total ground up build and you like to punish yourself turning it into a TJ. My Dads neighbor is one such individual, he builds some nice looking Jeeps in his garage, but they still aren't TJ's so you'd have to really like Jeeps to want to drive it.

 

Yeah, not looking for another project. If I'm going to throw cash at a money pit it will be my Camaro project.

 

Don't get me wrong. I do see the appeal of top off, no doors cruising around in the summer. But I have an Electraglide for that these days.

[2 Sweet]

Some good info in this thread.....

 

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129504

 

Unfortunately, the prices for these things aren't reasonable IMO. There's a lot more stuff I'd rather have for the money. The good news, if you really want one, is that their values will likely keep going up