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Thrust sprockets = garbage


serpentracer

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My AFAM doesn't look too bad after 10K.

I'm debating if I should have bought a steel rear sprocket and if I should have stayed with the stock 530.

:dunno:

Same boat. I didn't do the 520 conversion but it's there and I'm unsure whether I should keep it. I seem to be getting pretty good mileage out of my chain. It doesn't seem to need adjustment too much.

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Same boat. I didn't do the 520 conversion but it's there and I'm unsure whether I should keep it. I seem to be getting pretty good mileage out of my chain. It doesn't seem to need adjustment too much.

I did lose about 1.5 pounds when I switched, but I'm not sure it makes that much of a difference on the street.

When I did a thorough inspection of my chain I noticed I am loosing the x-rings.

This may be the last season for this chain.

Edited by RC51 John
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I did lose about 1.5 pounds when I switched, but I'm not sure it makes that much of a difference on the street.

When I did a thorough inspection of my chain I noticed I am loosing the x-rings.

This may be the last season for this chain.

everyone told me go 520. when i got mine and was comparing them i was expectin to feel this huge difference in weight and holding both in my hands same time i felt nothing. so i was like :wtf: then got to looking kawi already put a 520 on the 636 :lol:

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this is what their site says,

The rears are made of 7075 aerospace grade aluminum and is heat treated to a T6 hardness.

I think they need to keep heat treating them then LOL

Sounds like a track item, lighter than steel when it counts but not as durable. On a track bike you might change them every race depending on the course.

Perhaps this is a case where racing parts are not the thing to use on the street. :confused:

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Sounds like a track item, lighter than steel when it counts but not as durable. On a track bike you might change them every race depending on the course.

Perhaps this is a case where racing parts are not the thing to use on the street. :confused:

no. my driven sprocket is also a aluminum sprocket like 99% of aftermarket sprockets.

the difference is how they harden them and how long they last.

my friend had a afam sprocket last well beyond 12k miles.

mine has about 8k.

my brother had about 500. I don't think it was properly hardened.

I think driven (mine) final hardens theirs by anodizing it. and it seems to be working perfectly.

Edited by serpentracer
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no. my driven sprocket is also a aluminum sprocket like 99% of aftermarket sprockets.

the difference is how they harden them and how long they last.

my friend had a afam sprocket last well beyond 12k miles.

mine has about 8k.

my brother had about 500. I don't think it was properly hardened.

I think driven (mine) final hardens theirs by anodizing it. and it seems to be working perfectly.

Looks like poor alignment, or improper tension to me.

By the way, anodizing doesn't "harden" the aluminum - its more or less there to protect the surface. There is hard coat anodizing. Even with that the friction of the chain would wear through any surface coating rather quickly.

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Looks like poor alignment, or improper tension to me.

By the way, anodizing doesn't "harden" the aluminum - its more or less there to protect the surface. There is hard coat anodizing. Even with that the friction of the chain would wear through any surface coating rather quickly.

they said anodized hardening. I always thought anodizing was for color.

they say the front is also case hardend and hard anodized for strength.

trust me. I'm a pretty good mechanic and none of my bikes get put together half assed.

the wheel is perfectly aligned. notice there is no wear on the outside of the sprocket, but I know you can't see the inside, but it's the same way.

and the chain tension is perfect.

the sprocket just isn't worth a crap.

Edited by serpentracer
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