WTB: Ninja 250 Carb parts

[Aerik]

Ok, so I acquired Kermit (a 2001 Ninja 250) from Raincheck, and I'm trying to get this thing fixed. I'm not trying to get unrealistic performance out of it, just to get it back to stock/functioning.

It's had an ongoing issue where it refuses to idle well, generally idles waaaay up or dies completely (especially when you give it gas). Pre-pre-previous owner was a backyard tuner of the most unskilled sort, and we've spent a fair bit of time finding all the wonderful presents he left in it. Mismatched parts abound.

Where we are right now:

I've cleaned, re-cleaned, and re-re-cleaned these carbs. I've replaced the float needles, vacuum lines, fuel line, and pilot screws/springs/washers/o-rings. Also rebuilt the petcock, because I have no life. The pilot screws are set around 2 1/2 turns out, and the idle screw is just past barely on. Adjustments to either of these have little to no effect.

The airbox has been replaced with pods. Taping/ covering these has produced little to no effect, and I still have the stock airbox as well. The jets are not stock (we have acquired a vast collection in many different sizes and styles). The needles also appear to be of the non-stock variety, and look to be too short for this application.

Basically, I'd like to buy someone's old stock needles and jets, if anyone has upgraded and doesn't need them anymore. Failing that, if one of our more experienced mechanical people could tell me whether a Stage 1/2 Dynojet kit might be a worthwhile next move, I'd be appreciative. It seems like the bike would be great if I could just get the parts to more or less match each other. Right now, it's not really rideable.

So, lemme know whatcha got, or if you got nothing, lemme know whatcha think. I'm pretty well open to any and all suggestions at this point-- trying to find a matched set of jets and needles is just my logical next step.

Thanks all

[Benyen Soljax]

I would recommend putting the stock airbox back on. As for the parts, I would contact Cycle Search and see if they can hook you up. Its really just not worth spending extra money on upgrades for a 250.

IMO, if I was looking to buy a 250, I would want something I can just hop on and ride, not something that I have to worry about the A/F ratio all the time.

[jporter12]

I WAS going to say pick up a set of used carbs from ebay, but they are wanting STUPID amounts for them!

As Ben said, check with Cycle Search, and maybe the ninja250.org classifieds.

[Aerik]

I would recommend putting the stock airbox back on. As for the parts, I would contact Cycle Search and see if they can hook you up. Its really just not worth spending extra money on upgrades for a 250.

IMO, if I was looking to buy a 250, I would want something I can just hop on and ride, not something that I have to worry about the A/F ratio all the time.

I agree. I'm not trying to tune this little thing, just to get it running. The jet kit was suggested because it contains matching needles and jets, and it looks like the aforementioned amateur tuner moron may have replaced the stock needles with some short ones for some reason.

The pods were put on just to see if the airbox was the problem, so if I can get a functioning set of stock needles/jets I'll probably put the stock box back in.

[John]

ronayers.com you can order stock jets from there. they are pretty cheap, like 3 or 4 bucks a piece.

and def. put the airbox back on too. CV carbs do not work too well with pod filters. you CAN get it to run, but its gonna be down on power.

[J_Copeland]

I had a 250 I just sold and found out that the carb boots on some will be cracked and suck air,causing bad or no idle.

[John]

an old trick to check for cracked boots is to spray a little carb cleaner or starting fluid on the boots while the bike is running. if engine RPM increases, boots are cracked.

or, you can wrap saran wrap around the boots which will seal them up and see if it runs better.

[jporter12]

an old trick to check for cracked boots is to spray a little carb cleaner or starting fluid on the boots while the bike is running. if engine RPM increases, boots are cracked.

We do this on cars to find vacuum leaks, as well.