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I'm running into some problems with handlebar change


redrocket04

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So, I got the apehangers sold. Today is a happy day. I'm now trying to remove them from the bike, as well as the cables. So far, i've managed to get the grips off, unbolt the controls, and now I'm stuck. www.e-how.com has failed me.

Any advice for how to proceed? I've already got in the back of my mind that removing the brake line is going to be a hassle, as well as a mess.

It's one of those things where I'm doubting my mechanical aptitude, but I want to do it myself, and save the $117 IP would charge me to do it.

Anybody near Dublin that's free right now that would want to come teach me how to do this for $50 or just out of the kindness of your heart? Not sure where else to go from here. I ordered a manual thing, but it's not here yet, and this guy is picking up these beautiful apes today at 4:00.

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Yeah, he's getting the extended lines, too.

Unbolt the lines from the calipers and leave them attached to the handlebars. More mess on the ground, less mess on the bike. Remember, DOT 4 brake fluid eats just about anything so be careful.

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Unbolt the lines from the calipers and leave them attached to the handlebars. More mess on the ground, less mess on the bike. Remember, DOT 4 brake fluid eats just about anything so be careful.

ESPECIALLY paint.

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Unbolt the lines from the calipers and leave them attached to the handlebars. More mess on the ground, less mess on the bike. Remember, DOT 4 brake fluid eats just about anything so be careful.

Do this, but drain them into a coffee can or something similar. Brake fluid is an excellent paint remover.

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don't end up selling the apes and the new bars getting sold out from under you...might want to already have the new bars before selling the old :rolleyes:

OFF TOPIC

you and ben need to get here and take care of your craigslist weirdo before he shoots up the place

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assuming he is wanting all the extended cables, clutch, brake, throttle

unbolt banjo from caliper/calipers from the brake line

drain in to coffee can

unbolt throttle cables from carb

unbolt clutch cable from side of motor

unbolt controls from bars

loosen nuts on the throttle to loosen the cable up, take apart throttle housing

pull cables from throttle housing

unbolt banjo bolt from your mastercylinder (brake resevoir)

if i had the time id come help ya out, but i have to head to work in a few

loosen clutch cable at lever, remove clutch cable from lever

keep your banjo bolts and washers

pull controls from bars completely

keep your controls/throttle tube, levers

prepare to buy new brake lines, clutch cable, throttle cables

install everything back to bike with new bars

enjoy bleeding brakes and coming back on here asking for someone to help lol

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assuming he is wanting all the extended cables, clutch, brake, throttle

unbolt banjo from caliper/calipers from the brake line

drain in to coffee can

unbolt throttle cables from carb

unbolt clutch cable from side of motor

unbolt controls from bars

loosen nuts on the throttle to loosen the cable up, take apart throttle housing

pull cables from throttle housing

unbolt banjo bolt from your mastercylinder (brake resevoir)

if i had the time id come help ya out, but i have to head to work in a few

loosen clutch cable at lever, remove clutch cable from lever

keep your banjo bolts and washers

pull controls from bars completely

keep your controls/throttle tube, levers

prepare to buy new brake lines, clutch cable, throttle cables

install everything back to bike with new bars

enjoy bleeding brakes and coming back on here asking for someone to help lol

Well, at least you'll be prepared if I need to ask for help with the brake bleeding. I'm getting there, slowly but surely. To be honest, when I started this job, I didn't expect I'd be sitting here looking at my bike all in pieces. It's good learnin, though.

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I'm originally from Michigan, so I feel your pain.

I couldn't use the bars I got from you because the apes were different sized risers. I ended up getting another set, though. With changing all the cables, it meant a lot more intensive than I expected, and, well, it's almost back together, but I'm have some sort of issue with the throttle. It doesn't snap back. It will GO back, but it's just lazy about returning. Not sure where the hang up is. It's not the spring on the carb, it's nice and snappy. Bike looks much better in my opinion, now. Just gotta plug in a couple of harnesses, and put the gas tank back on, then read up on bleeding the brakes, and refilling with fluid. I'm still gonna say it'll be ready by tomorrow night at QSL.

IP would have charged me $117 to switch bars. I spent almost that much on tools today. I need to go buy a new brake line and a clutch cable tomorrow, too.

At least I enjoyed it. Haven't done much to get dirty in a while.

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Throttle cables are like that. The routing and position must be very free to actually allow the throttle to snap back on it's own. Minimum radius bends in the cable should be avoided. The throttle cable has to have a smooth run from the handlebar to the carb. It's not unusual to have to fiddle with one to get it right. I'm assuming it was lubed up ok, but if it wasn't, maybe do that too. One of the best sources of how to route the throttle cable will be in the service manual. Personal opinion, the most likely place to bind up is down at the carb throttle, where movement changes how freely the cable moves.

Also, when done, make sure the engine doesn't rev up when the front forks are turned all the way to both the left and the right. That's bad, and quite common after fiddling with the throttle cable.

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I

IP would have charged me $117 to switch bars. I spent almost that much on tools today.

its ok, those will pay for themselves in no time.

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