F***! Help!

[Restlesswildman]

Yes the starter switch is a source of issue on the 1st gen's. I left that out just because it is one of the last things to goof up. Plus its a biotch to take apart. The pivot point is usually broke on one side, the littl fing SPRINGS shoot out............and your dog eats them!

But if he checks everything else 1st and it is the starter switch a can of electrical cleaner will work on it too!

[Likwid]

If the killswitch was the issue he wouldn't be able to bump start it....

[jporter12]

Battery could be perfect but if the starter switch is bad, then of course it will push start and won't make any noise while trying to start.

He DID say that there was voltage at the starter when the button was pressed, so I'm thinking it is the starter. Check for volts at the starter with the button pushed first. If that fails, then start checking the other stuff. Pretty simple stuff, really.

[ReconRat]

Starters are expensive. I generally keep the starter, clean and condition the commutator, install new brushes purchased separately, and use it again. Carefully... Where possible...

Parts stores would rather have you buy a starter, so finding starter brushes can be difficult at times.

[Aerik]

We have two working Denso starters pulled out of early-80's Yamaha Secas. Probably the wrong size stuff, but if you could get useable parts out of them we'd probably sell you one really cheap. If I remember later, I'll go get the part number and try to figure out if any of the internals might be compatible.

[chevysoldier]

He DID say that there was voltage at the starter when the button was pressed, so I'm thinking it is the starter. Check for volts at the starter with the button pushed first. If that fails, then start checking the other stuff. Pretty simple stuff, really.

I miss read that in the OP. Ill stfu now.

[Ryan_c_F]

Ok... after a bit more exploration...

When I press the starter button, there is a Sharp click that comes from the fuse box on the left side of the bike. There is a frayed wire there too. I think this is my problem.

[Aerik]

If I'm reading the diagram right, your starter solenoid is right there on the left too (assembly 11 in this diagram, note the 30A fuse at 36 also). Sometimes they make a noise even when they're working ok. You might be able to check by looking for voltage at the terminal on the solenoid which is leading toward the starter. If there is voltage there, the problem may still be in your starter.

Also, noticed that diagram's kinda hard to read on here, so here's the link: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1985-honda-motorcycle-vf1100s-v65-sabre/o/m2748?q=30510-MB0-703

[BMMW]

p.s. 12 volts at your battery does not mean you have a good battery.

[v65rider]

I would be willing to bet it is the battery. It should be sitting there with at least 12 volts. then turn the key on and test again. If it drops then you have a bad cell.

It if isn't the battery check the main fuse on the right side of the bike.

This it a metal fuse that is held in by 2 screws. Allot of times it will look ok but when you pull it out you will find it is broken. A permenant fix for that is to go to Walmart or any autozone type of store and get a 30amp fuse holder and wire it in place and bypass that old ass fuse.

Also check the R/R you should see 3 yellow wires check the connections. I would be willing to bet they are burnt. Cut out the connections and hard wire those wires. It wouldn't hurt to add in a little longer wires so that you can open your battery compartment with out any problems.

Finally check the green ground wire that should be connected to the frame right above the R/R.

[Ryan_c_F]

OK, so here's what I found last night.

The click is coming from a box, about 2" by 2.5", hanging right above the battery on the left side of the bike. Four wires lead into the top with a thick plastic clip around them. You have to pry up one of those recalcitrant plastic latches to detach it.

The inside is burnt to shit and there is corrosion everywhere (fault of the side cover missing). Me smell homebrew electrical repair from the previous owner.

Fortunately, I have a soldering iron and nothing looks too complicated. I can update with pics when I get home.

[Cheech]

burning + wiring == not good. Need pics.

[v65rider]

That sounds like where the main fuse is supposed to be, and yes you can bypass that by wiring an in a inline 30 amp fuse. Better take care of those 3 yellow wire while you are in there.

Check this link http://wiki.sabmagfaq.org/MainFuseMod

Edited July 1, 2010 by v65rider
to add link

[Ryan_c_F]

Looks perfect rider thanks a million.

Cheech- the plastic.clip is scorched and melted. the wires are in good shape save.for some wrapping stripped off one wire. However the stripped wire is not near the scorched area.

[v65rider]

Check out the rest of that site for allot of good info on these old bikes.

[Cheech]

That sounds like where the main fuse is supposed to be, and yes you can bypass that by wiring an in a inline 30 amp fuse. Better take care of those 3 yellow wire while you are in there.

Check this link http://wiki.sabmagfaq.org/MainFuseMod

I was thinking the same thing, that sounds eerily like where the main bus fuse should be. Sounds to me like that link will do it, but instead of liquid electrical tape I'd get some waterproof butt-splice connectors at Autozone. They have the adhesive inside so when you apply heat to the heatshrink, the adhesive melts and seals the ends. They're a little more expensive, but totally worth it.

[v65rider]

I personally soldered in a little extra wire so that a connector wasn't needed and then heat shrinked the connections.

[jporter12]

I was thinking the same thing, that sounds eerily like where the main bus fuse should be. Sounds to me like that link will do it, but instead of liquid electrical tape I'd get some waterproof butt-splice connectors at Autozone. They have the adhesive inside so when you apply heat to the heatshrink, the adhesive melts and seals the ends. They're a little more expensive, but totally worth it.

Those things are cool! We some some connectors at the shop that top those. They're pretty much the same, other than instead of crimping, you insert the wires and heat it, letting a ring of solder melt into the wires. They're similar (same?) heat-shrink material on the outside as the crimp type. The spray-on electrical tape is surprisingly good. I usually stay away from stuff like that, but we tried some out and it really works well. Maybe better than electrical tape!

There are a few resources out there for the Hon-duh V-4 bikes. I check out vfrworld.com quite often (interceptor specific) and there's vfrdiscussion that might have some info that would be beneficial as well.