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1999.5 Ford F350 Powerstroke Dually... FEELER...


Moto-Brian

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Alright... Thinking of selling my beloved F350. Hate to even consider it, but honestly, I am thinking of getting something new after having this guy for so long.

It's been a GREAT truck and the only real reason I have kept it was because it has been so dependable and quite frankly, Ford and the newer diesels have been scary...

Specs:

-1999.5 - Yes, the 99.5s were completely different than the 99s. Rotors, airbox, etc. When you go to buy parts, you have to tell them MY 2000 vs 1999...

-@170k

-Powerstroke 7.3 XLT

-Dually

-Tow Package

-Off Road PAckage

-4x4

-Long (8') bed

-4 door

-Cloth interior

-Automatic

EXTRAS:

-Updated headlights and mirrors (Telescopic)

-KMC Rockstar Matte Black wheels

-BF Goodrich A/T KOs

-Sunroof

-Full 5" exhaust (turbo back)

-Larger Turbo housing

-High Performance Turbo impeller

-Silicone hoses

-3 Stage Chip - 40hp/100hp/150hp

-Gauges

Tinted windows

CUSTOM PAINT JOB. NO DECALS!! This was painted by TAOD Design who paints for notable Power Boat companies like Cigarette, etc. This would cost you north of $10k to have done. Is all paint - not a single decal and cleared over. The white is not even OEM Ford - it is a Pearl White.

NEWER MAINTENANCE:

-New rear rotors and brake pads (2010)

-New Carrier Bearing (2011)

-New Front hub bearings, brake pads and rotors (2010)

Overall, at 170k, this thing is running like a top. My last 7.3 got me just a click under 300k before I sold it to a buddy who has it still today and runs great. We take really good care of the trucks - change the oil (Rotella), fuel filter, oil filter, coolant additive, etc regularly.

It has some scratches, a little rust under the doors (typical Ford Powerstroke) and some rust at the bottom of the rear gate (Again, typical Ford PS). Under side is really good as it doesn't get driven in winter much if at all. Probably close to 1000 miles in 11 years... Oil pan has some rust and leaks slightly some oil, but all VERY common and VERY typical of these year 7.3 PS trucks. Anyone that has one that isn't, is steam cleaning or painting underneath to cover shit up. Haven't found one that doesn't have the exact same issues...

Thinking $14k OBO.

I will take some regular pics as soon as it gets nicer out. It is pretty filthy as I do not typically drive it in winter, but had the carrier bearing replaced this weekend and it got pretty slimy looking.

Here are some pics:

With the paint job just finished:

dually7.jpg

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dually8.jpg

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As it sits with the KMC wheels. The above pic wheels are long gone...

newtrailer1.jpg

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GLWS at that price. As for the oil pan it's $1k to get it fixed as you have to pull the engine. I just had it done to my 00 Excursion.

I think $12k is probably the lowest I would get out of it. Lower miles, is a 7.3 vs the shit pile 6.0 and 6.4s...

As for the pan, I know the cost as I had it done on the other one. This one is not bad at all. In fact, it is just surface at this stage...

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oil pan on mine is getting pretty thin in one spot...i think i could push my finger into it, but im just not touching it...come spring time, gonna clean the salt off, sand it, and put a heavy coat of POR15 on it

glws, the price isnt horribly bad, and its a nice truck...i think 12k is more reasonable considering the pan is leaking

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Sharp looking truck! GLWS.

I've been pulling the trans and jacking the engine up to do the oil pan. Pull the turbo, and you have to remove the bell housing blots either way. Ane big plus is less of a mess, not having to open the cooling system. I've pulled enough transmissions in these things that it goes super quick, so that works out better for me. If it was my own, I would probably pull it and clean the engine, and engine bay at same time, but the customers don't want to pay the extra to do all that, most of the time.

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oil pan on mine is getting pretty thin in one spot...i think i could push my finger into it, but im just not touching it...come spring time, gonna clean the salt off, sand it, and put a heavy coat of POR15 on it

glws, the price isnt horribly bad, and its a nice truck...i think 12k is more reasonable considering the pan is leaking

Again... THE PAN IS NOT LEAKING! It is coming from typical oil seepage from these trucks. mostly out the breather... Down from the rear main seal... It isn't losing oil, it isn't burning oil, etc...

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Sharp looking truck! GLWS.

I've been pulling the trans and jacking the engine up to do the oil pan. Pull the turbo, and you have to remove the bell housing blots either way. Ane big plus is less of a mess, not having to open the cooling system. I've pulled enough transmissions in these things that it goes super quick, so that works out better for me. If it was my own, I would probably pull it and clean the engine, and engine bay at same time, but the customers don't want to pay the extra to do all that, most of the time.

It is 4x4 and was told it isn't that easy. Are they BSing me?

It's just surface rust as of now and certainly not at a point where you can poke a hole in it with a finger... Just is bubbled slightly...

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Again... THE PAN IS NOT LEAKING! It is coming from typical oil seepage from these trucks. mostly out the breather... Down from the rear main seal... It isn't losing oil, it isn't burning oil, etc...

gotcha...your post is very misleading, you made it sound as if the pan was leaking

Oil pan has some rust and leaks slightly some oil

my mistake i suppose

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It is 4x4 and was told it isn't that easy. Are they BSing me?

It's just surface rust as of now and certainly not at a point where you can poke a hole in it with a finger... Just is bubbled slightly...

That is the way Ford tell you how to do the oil pan, by pulling the engine.

Oil Pan Gasket>See engine removal

So no they weren't BS'ing you. The transmission is just easier to remove and then jack up the engine off the motor mounts.

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and for anyone that does look at this truck 99% of 7.3L's have a wet spot at the rear main. shits normal.

glws. 7.3L's are getting hard to find and bringing a lot of money

yep...mine leaks out about 1 quart of oil every 2500 miles..not too bad

but this would be a great truck for someone.... when i went shopping i refused to look at 6.0s and 6.4s, 7.3 is the only way to go....and 170k is nothing for this truck, ide love to pick it up myself

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Again... THE PAN IS NOT LEAKING! It is coming from typical oil seepage from these trucks. mostly out the breather... Down from the rear main seal... It isn't losing oil, it isn't burning oil, etc...

I guess I was just jumping on the "talk about leaking oil pan" band wagon! For anyone that's interested in buying the truck, it is something that may need addressed in the future. The small amount down from the main seal area is normal, since most oil leaks that can occur end up back there.

It is 4x4 and was told it isn't that easy. Are they BSing me?

It's just surface rust as of now and certainly not at a point where you can poke a hole in it with a finger... Just is bubbled slightly...

As I said, I've had enough transmissions out that it's easier for me to go that route. Pulling the engine just seems like so much more work! I set the mounts down on a couple 2x4's, pull the flexplate, drop the oil pickup tube, then the pan will come right out.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Bump for a sexy truck...just saw it at ktm in reynoldsburg....looks even better in person!

Even though it looked like a salt block? Thanks, man!

I was really bummed to have to drive it to Indy for the show... I knew it would get filthy.

On top of that, the Flyin' J just west of Richmond had water in the fuel. I had to pull over a few times, drain it and run again. Got some 911 stuff in it and some additive I use and it was running great by the time I got home. I WAS PISSED!!

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even covered in salt it looked fantastic!

and thats some BS...did you call the station and demand your money back?

Nah. What would they actually do anyways? I mean, they could easily blame it on something else and unless they tested the fuel, it would be tough to point the finger specifically at that location.

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