natedogg624 Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 need some help with finding a good trustworthy shop around campus/cbus to A) run my engine service light and B) either install or help me install new plugs/wires (i think) for an easy on the college student budget price (maybe even an OR discount )basically I made a run to harbor freight to get some stuff, ran fine on the way there. on the way home from harbor freight, truck accelerates poorly, jerky constant throttle, i barely could get it over 60 on the highway. i think its the plugs and/or wires, or worse it could be injectors however i think this would be more gradual and not as sudden. service engine light is on but its pretty much always on. 98 Chevy s10 2.2L 5spd - 113k miles on the truck. has had a head gasket replacement around 105k, i'll have to check and see what they did to see if they changed plugs and wires or not (i would hope so...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Sounds like a blown head gasket/cracked head. Check your oil. If it's milky, you know the answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 temp isn't rising at all, its staying steady no matter how long i run it. plus if its a head gasket i might as well trash the truck since it was just changed last summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Butters Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 doesnt sound like a head gasket to me...ill PM you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 i just checked the dipstick, no signs of milky residue and still looked fresh. and like i said, the temp stayed under the normal for the entire time on the freeway and stop and go city roads.update: plugs and wires have not been changed at least since i've gotten the vehicle (@90k), could be original wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97af Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Take it to Autozone and have them plug their handheld in to get the codes..You could "its this" "no,it got to be that" it all day. Untill you get the codes out, you'r wizzin' in the wind... They wont charge you a nickel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ducati guy Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Yes go to autozone and have them check it for free then go from there.If we r taking guesses, it could be a bad injector. Bad crank sensor, bad cam sensor. Unmetered air leak..a bunch of stuffCasper..really bad headgasket??? Are you even trying to help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubguy85 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Casper..really bad headgasket??? Are you even trying to help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 i thought ben was a little off... ok guys i'll get to autozone hopefully tonight if they aren't closed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 got 6 codes out of the reader, 2 were repeats:P0404 - exhaust gas recirculation control circuit P0341 - camshaft pos sensor A circuit (bank 1 or single circuit)P0420 - catalyst system efficiency below threshold (x2)P1404 - EGR valve stuck open (x2)the one that would cause the poor running would be the camshaft sensor, now does anybody know how easy/hard it would be to fix the camshaft sensor on these 2.2 chevy engines?also i'm polluting the world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conn-e-rot Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 It's on the passenger side of the block go at it through the wheel well and be careful it doesn't split and lose half inside block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 easy to do, or would i be better off saving the hassle and getting a shop to do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conn-e-rot Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 &prodImageURL=http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/SU1069/image/"]http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/common/enlargedImageOverlay.jsp?prodDescription=Duralast/Camshaft+Interrupter-Magnet&imageURLList=[http%3A//contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/SU1069/image/]&prodImageURL=http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/SU1069/image/there is what your after no way I'd pay a shop to do it the main thing is just watch when u pull it out if its split in two pieces when you remove it then take your time and get it out but DO NOT push it in the block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 i'll take a look tomorrow to see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevysoldier Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 pry and twist, pry and twist. go slow. Clean the hole out and lube the new sensor before you put it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conn-e-rot Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I don't know how common it is for them to split but it happened on my father in laws it just took some patience and time to get it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conn-e-rot Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I would pry it out a little spray the hell out of it with blaster push it back in pull it out spray push back in keep repeating and take your time it will come out... and like chevy said clean the hole and put some grease on the new one before install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 pry and twist, pry and twist. go slow. Clean the hole out and lube the new sensor before you put it in.lube with what, oil? brake cleaner to clean it out i'm guessing?also what are the chances its bad wiring and not a bad plug? how would i find out if its one or the other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevysoldier Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Lube it with grease. Clean it with a brillo pad or sand paper. Rust tends to build up and will make it hard to get the old out and could rip the o-ring on the new one. You want to try to avoid letting the crap fall inside the motor so don't shoot brake cleaner into it. You could use a rag with brake cleaner to wipe it out though.It could be wiring and that would take schematics and a troubleshooting guide. Could be a bad connector or corrosion in it. I don't know what the failure rate it on those. Most of the ones I've changed are on Chryslers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 DO NOT MESS WITH THAT CAM SENSOR! The EGR stuck open is the first thing that needs addressed! The Cam sensor will almost NEVER make it missfire, or even run bad on that thing. The cam sensor is there just so that the engine will know what cylinder is which for misfire detection, and sequential fuel injection. The ignition is all run off the crank sensor, ONLY. I think it does have 2 crank sensors though, one that goes to the ignition control module (does all the firing of the plugs, provides the rough crank location to the computer. Then it probably has a higher resolution crank sensor, usually a 24x signal that's used for misfire detection, that runs straight to the computer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ducati guy Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Bam! Who called it?? That's right, this guy did:D:bow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevysoldier Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 DO NOT MESS WITH THAT CAM SENSOR! The EGR stuck open is the first thing that needs addressed! The Cam sensor will almost NEVER make it missfire, or even run bad on that thing. The cam sensor is there just so that the engine will know what cylinder is which for misfire detection, and sequential fuel injection. The ignition is all run off the crank sensor, ONLY. I think it does have 2 crank sensors though, one that goes to the ignition control module (does all the firing of the plugs, provides the rough crank location to the computer. Then it probably has a higher resolution crank sensor, usually a 24x signal that's used for misfire detection, that runs straight to the computer.Wondered when you'd chime in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Actually, there is only one crank sensor, and it's a "7x" signal. From our repair info, which gets their info straight from the manufacturer, without reformatting it, here's what they say about the cam sensor:The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) is used in order to correlate the crankshaft to the camshaft position so that the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) can determine which cylinder is ready to be fueled by the injector. The CMP sensor is also used in order to determine which cylinder is misfiring when misfire is present. If the PCM receives an intermittent signal from the CMP, then the CMP Resync Counter will increment. When the PCM cannot use the information from the CMP sensor, a DTC is set and the PCM will fuel the engine using the Alternating Synchronous Double Fire (ASDF) method. This sensor has no effect on the Electronic Ignition (EI) system.Basically, without the cam sensor, misfire detection may not be able to determine which cylinder is misfiring, and it won't know which injector to fire out of each cylinder pair (1-4, and 2-3) so it will fire each for that cyl pair at the same time, which COULD decrease fuel mileage, and increase emissions, but most likely not enough that you'd notice much other than the light being on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Wondered when you'd chime in!I was busy playing COD Black Ops, and beating some kids for waking up their little brother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Yes go to autozone and have them check it for free then go from there.If we r taking guesses, it could be a bad injector. Bad crank sensor, bad cam sensor. Unmetered air leak..a bunch of stuffCasper..really bad headgasket??? Are you even trying to helpYeah, these things are notorious for head gasket failures. I'd say about 80% of the time, the head is cracked. GM never should have put the 2.2 in the S-10. Bam! Who called it?? That's right, this guy did:D:bow:Before you break your arm trying to pat yourself on the back, what did you call right? Unmetered air? Sort of, but not so much, because it's a speed density system, and it doesn't actually meter the air coming into the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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