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heat shielding?


redkow97

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my headers are melting my coolant overflow reservoir.

it has a foil-like material on a portion of the container to prevent this, but it's melting next to it as well.

any suggestions? I'm tempted to just use dryer tape or something. There are commercial adhesive 'mats' for this (like you'd use on the bottom of a car hood), but it's expensive and way too thick.

I probably need less than 4 square inches...

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my headers are melting my coolant overflow reservoir.

it has a foil-like material on a portion of the container to prevent this, but it's melting next to it as well.

any suggestions? I'm tempted to just use dryer tape or something. There are commercial adhesive 'mats' for this (like you'd use on the bottom of a car hood), but it's expensive and way too thick.

I probably need less than 4 square inches...

best I can do is offer you a somewhat stained replacement coolant reservoir. I found algae in mine so I bought another one last year but haven't put it on yet.

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haha - already have one of those. Plus this one isn't melted through yet, so it's still fine; I just want to keep it from gtting any worse.

The last one had quarter-sized holes in it before I noticed. i was considering relocating the bottle someplace else with one of the aftermarket kits, but they're like $35, and I have no fucking clue where else I could fit it.

They say the AMA pros put them behind the fairing stay. Okay, I have wiring and gauges there...

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Is there room to wrap your headers?

You could wrap them in heat tape (fiberglass) if there is.

I think that's what he was talking about. From the header (I'm assuming he's running factory headers, as I have) there's not a lot of room for the heat tape between the reservoir and the metal.

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I was trying to avoid wrapping my headers, but if i'm going to do it, now is the time (forks are off the bike).

they're Arata Titanium headers, and they wrap tighter than stock - at least I think they do, because oil filters that people said would fit with stock headers do NOT fit with mine...

the tape from Jegs sounds like it would work.

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Ace hardwares have that "mach 2" stainless foil tape. (I think it's aluminum.) That might be enough to do the task.

(It's actually HVAC furnace duct metal tape.)

I think the package said something about handling elevated temperatures.

I'd guess it would be good up to 175F or higher. I've used it on engine parts. Cheap enough.

On the bottle, not the exhaust pipe. Oil and fuel will loosen up the glue backing over time.

Industrial grade metal tapes, like Scotch brand, appear to be good up to 300F.

Don't know the difference. They are both metal tape.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1272338&kw=metal+tape&origkw=metal+tape&searchId=55702021673

pACE2-962690reg.jpg

There is also materials for on soft and hard luggage, to go in between the exhaust and the bags. Some of those are expensive.

Edited by ReconRat
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or... exhaust system repair tape, for on the bottle. Those are good to between 1000F and 1900F.

I think those are held in place by wire. Like safety wire.

Edited by ReconRat
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what I ended up doing was a combination of 500 degree RVT to fill in the divot created by the melting plastic, and covering that 'repair' with JEGS heat-tape (also good well beyond 500 degrees)

*knock on wood* The tap is holding VERY well so far, but I will likely throw a loop of safety wire around the bottle in case the adhesive decides to give up.

I'm not quite done yet, but I am THOROUGHLY pleased with the way this is working out. $15 in adhesive insulation saved me from routinely replacing coolant bottles ($17 each, if i'm lucky) or buying the aftermarket kit for $35, and then having to deal with mounting, routing hoses, etc.

I'll post pics of how this ended up later on. May use the leftover tape to keep some heat off my lower fairing too :)

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I had my headers ceramic coated. They are quite a bit cooler to the touch, and it's a lot better looking on an exposed sportbike motor than the usual mucked up pipery.

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