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I am a power commander retard


redkow97

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My bike came with a power commander, and I haven't touched it.

I have no clue what map is currently set, or if it "acknowledges" my exhaust system (which also came on the bike).

the previous owner told me that the bike was mapped for 87 octane. Spending $800 on a full exhaust, and another $200+ just to run regular instead of premium sounds like a giant waste to me.

So how hard is it to mess with my power commander? I went to the website and found where I can download the different maps. What's next?

There are like 5 different download sections, and my bike/exhaust is listed more than once. I know I don't want the European maps, but what the hell do I do with the map once I download it, and why can't I download individual maps?

anyone in the Cleveland area want to help me mess with this? free beer.

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The power commander is very simple to use and user friendly. If you have usb adapter, just turn the bike on (doesn't need to be running) and plug the usb into a computer. You will need dynojets software installed to access it. From there, its a matter of selecting and loading/saving maps.

However, I have yet to see any premade map that was worth a crap. The best thing is a custom tune for your bike, as what was supposedly done. The only way to check it, is a few dyno pulls. (Contact DTM Brian for this) As far as your bike being tuned for 87 octane, that simply means when the previous guy had it tuned...thats what was in the tank/engine. From my experiance, a non-built CBR engine doesn't have the compression to make use of a higher octane. My 07 was tuned on Bp 93 and made less power then very similar bikes on 87. The only way to truely test that..would be to test pull with 87, then empty and repeat with 93.

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The power commander is very simple to use and user friendly. If you have usb adapter, just turn the bike on (doesn't need to be running) and plug the usb into a computer. You will need dynojets software installed to access it. From there, its a matter of selecting and loading/saving maps.

However, I have yet to see any premade map that was worth a crap. The best thing is a custom tune for your bike, as what was supposedly done. The only way to check it, is a few dyno pulls. (Contact DTM Brian for this) As far as your bike being tuned for 87 octane, that simply means when the previous guy had it tuned...thats what was in the tank/engine. From my experiance, a non-built CBR engine doesn't have the compression to make use of a higher octane. My 07 was tuned on Bp 93 and made less power then very similar bikes on 87. The only way to truely test that..would be to test pull with 87, then empty and repeat with 93.

03/04 600RR's have 12.0:1 compression. I'd definitely only run premium in it.

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03/04 600RR's have 12.0:1 compression. I'd definitely only run premium in it.

And the 07+ have 12.2:1 and yet consistantly made more power on 87 then mine on 93. (108hp vs 110-112) Mind you it was on different dynos and such. But the bikes were almost identically built other then which fuel made more power. (Jake Holden's last years CBR race bikes vs mine)

Again, this is my experiances and information gained with a 600rr from the past two years of testing & tuning and talking with other credible guys that use them. Its also pretty easy to find other people having the same experiances from a small google search. My suggestion was still to get it properly tested at a good dyno tuner for optimal results and comparison. And that the premade maps are complete crap for performance other then making the map functional without risk of damaging the bike from being too lean.

Edited by SJC1000rr
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how much horsepower is a $200 dyno tune going to buy me?

For that price, I probably need the seat time more than the additional power.

As noted, the PO claimed 104 at the wheel. Whether or not he actually ran 87 is anyone's guess, but I have been running 87, and not noticed any rough running or knocking at all.

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how much horsepower is a $200 dyno tune going to buy me?

For that price, I probably need the seat time more than the additional power.

As noted, the PO claimed 104 at the wheel. Whether or not he actually ran 87 is anyone's guess, but I have been running 87, and not noticed any rough running or knocking at all.

You are putting too much focus on max power gains. What is more important is the power gains through the entire rpm range and throttle positions. Places that charge $100.00 for a map are only doing wide open throttle and a lot of times it is a half ass attempt in gettting the air/fuel correctly.

The only way to see the true gains of a tune is to do a baseline run to see what the A/F is like. From there I can tell you what there is for you to benefit from a tune.

HP numbers are not everything. Unless you drive a supra. :D

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Probably not enough to justify spending $200, I would have guessed the 03 with FS/p3 would be around 105ish. The cheap way would still be to just get a few dyno pulls done at a place to see your air/fuel ratios and what the hp/tq are currently.

Seattime is much more valuable then a few more hp when your just learning. My bike only did 108.4 last year and I had a blast just taking it all it and still got what I consider good finishes for my first year.

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Talking about 'Mapping'...

OK, I want to ask a question somewhat related to the OP's topic without hijacking the thread...

I traded up from my '95 carbed GPZ1100 to an '08 CBR (obviously FI), have never owned or even ridden a fuelie prior to this and am having a bit of trouble getting used to the feel/response of the throttle. I do most of my street riding with the tach in the 3K-7K range, since only a deranged fool or Miguel Duhamel could use all the HP of this thing on the street. (FYI--I'm not a newb; been riding more than 4 decades, just mostly older sh-t.)

So, what I notice is that the fueling is pretty 'digital', i.e., either 'On' or 'Off' in the lower RPM ranges, making it difficult to ride a smooth line in slower corners and in 35-45 MPH traffic. I also have ridden an FJR lately and while not as noticeable as on the CBR, it still has the low RPM on-off feel to it. Is this a typical characteristic of a FI bike? Is this something that an aftermarket map could be tuned to eliminate? Not looking for max HP or even a fatter torque curve here--just the exact opposite, call it better 'rideability' for real-world situations.

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Talking about 'Mapping'...

OK, I want to ask a question somewhat related to the OP's topic without hijacking the thread...

I traded up from my '95 carbed GPZ1100 to an '08 CBR (obviously FI), have never owned or even ridden a fuelie prior to this and am having a bit of trouble getting used to the feel/response of the throttle. I do most of my street riding with the tach in the 3K-7K range, since only a deranged fool or Miguel Duhamel could use all the HP of this thing on the street. (FYI--I'm not a newb; been riding more than 4 decades, just mostly older sh-t.)

So, what I notice is that the fueling is pretty 'digital', i.e., either 'On' or 'Off' in the lower RPM ranges, making it difficult to ride a smooth line in slower corners and in 35-45 MPH traffic. I also have ridden an FJR lately and while not as noticeable as on the CBR, it still has the low RPM on-off feel to it. Is this a typical characteristic of a FI bike? Is this something that an aftermarket map could be tuned to eliminate? Not looking for max HP or even a fatter torque curve here--just the exact opposite, call it better 'rideability' for real-world situations.

Extreme lean or rich conditions can cause this sudden off/on power you are talking about. A quick cruise on the dyno with the wideband will let us know if the A/F is causing any issues.

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DTM Brian, can you clue some of us PC newbs in.... is there a place to get "similar" setup maps other than individual forums and tuners?

I found someone on 1130cc that had a nearly identical setup to me but I don't want to run it too long before I can get a custom tune

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