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my 05 gsxr 1000 temp issue


614busa

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You do not want to run auto antifreeze their some thing in it that grind down the water pump fins If you do say good bye to the water pump check the water pump fins run water wetter or Ice

Try to burp the radiator make sure antifreeze is at a good level

Edited by wht_scorpion
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You do not want to run auto antifreeze their some thing in it that grind down the water pump fins If you do say good bye to the water pump check the water pump fins run water wetter or Ice

Try to burp the radiator make sure antifreeze is at a good level

car antifreeze is not different than the anti freeze the bike came with.

I don't get why bike guys think a motorcycle is so different than a car engine.

the only coolant you don't want to use is the DEXCOOL

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Just do a coolant flush to be sure everything's kosher there. If it's been more than a year, it can't hurt anyway.

I run distilled water and water wetter, and my bike only sees 220 after it's been on the track for 20 minutes, and I slow to pit speeds. Otherwise it stays around 200, even at 15,000 RPM.

Granted, I'm going a lot faster, so there's more air coming through the radiator, but I'm also probably at triple the RPM...

Water Wetter is NOT anti-freeze, so you'll need to flush the system again in November; but it's not like distilled water is expensive...

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Thermostat or ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor. Thermostat opens at 180F on that bike. The radiator cooling fan comes on at 220F, and shuts off at 212F. The ECT will read temperature based on resistance. Any additional resistance in the wiring between the ECT and the "computer" would read a higher temperature.

Easiest fast check is to put a good thermometer in the coolant fill port. Observe when the flow starts as the thermostat opens, observe the temperature of the coolant on the thermometer, and observe what the temperature at instrument cluster shows at that same time. Be prepared to put the coolant fill cap back on quickly and/or shut the engine off. Judge which is off, the thermostat or the ECT.

A thermostat that is wrong, will need replacing. An ECT that is wrong, needs to have the resistance checked right at the sensor. If the sensor is ok, check the wiring for resistance (bad/dirty connections).

This would also "burp" the system if necessary, by letting the system push any air out while you've got the fill port open. There will be some motion or expansion before the thermostat actually opens and coolant flow begins in the system. Keep the coolant off of painted parts if it overflows a little. Have a water hose or something ready to flush it off stuff.

But basically, in hot weather like we have now, your temps should stay between 180F and 220F, as displayed on your instruments. That would be normal. Actually, at all times, that is the operating range.

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