Gixxus Christ! Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 (edited) Some of you asked me to start a build thread with pics for my Honda motor.First the guts:I went with a cycle-x 850 cc 10.5:1 compression piston kit. They cast, machine and coat them in house and they are of the highest quality.After knocking the motor apart I saw that my cam chain tensioner guts were shot, so ordered new ones. The cam I'm going with is a .370 lift, 290 duration cycle-x cam.Of course all new gaskets and seals, oil cooler and dyna-s ignition. Hi-temp powder coated 4-1 header with a gutted megaphone to piss off the cops.More pics to followAll clean and sandblasted.Prepped for paintIn the booth, frat brack! More pics as it comes along. Edited June 18, 2014 by CrazySkullCrusher 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted December 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Bottom end with ringed pistons installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirPsycho Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 I have a 76 cb 750 i just started. working the tank right know. i have the bike almost stripped down. How hard is it to get that motor out. Is it a two man job or can one guy pull it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bacchus Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 I have a 76 cb 750 i just started. working the tank right know. i have the bike almost stripped down. How hard is it to get that motor out. Is it a two man job or can one guy pull it?You're a pretty strong guy, Nick, but the SOHC is a bit over 175lbs from what I remember... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted December 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Takes at least 2, there is a lot of adjusting here and there to get it to clear the frame. I'm gonna try laying the frame down and dropping the motor in on its side when I put her back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Takes at least 2, there is a lot of adjusting here and there to get it to clear the frame. I'm gonna try laying the frame down and dropping the motor in on its side when I put her back together.I've done a few like that. Laid engine on side and removed or installed frame. Works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted December 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Seems like there would be less risk of damaging my awesome paint job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jester3681 Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 I'm lucky with the Virago - the engine is a stressed member so the whole frame bolts to it. I just unbolt everything and I'm left with the motor on he jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted December 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Yeah, but you're also left with a virago, lol. Sorry, I like my inline fours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jester3681 Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Sometimes the bike we own is the one we got a really good deal on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted December 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Ah. I got my 750 on a trade, by the time I'm done with it I'll have twice what its worth put into it. Looks.like I better keep it for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 Good too see you got a build thread started! Subscribed.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted December 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 May have run into a snag. The only flat black I could find was vht flameproof header ceramic coating. We shot 2 coats, let it cure overnight. At this point you can scratch it off with your fingernail. The can says to bake at 250, let cool then 400 then cool.then.600. We cooked one of the valve inspection caps at 250 and after it.cooled it was still not adhering very good. I left work at midnight but the painter said he would. Bake it at 400 and put it in his locker. Will find out tomorrow if I will end up having to sandblaat the whole fucking project, re mask and start from scratch. Anyway this is the valve cover after I scotch brighted the paint off of the ribs and Sohc 750. I love that this stuff is blacker than black and flatter than a bitch on a big wheel. I really hope it sticks after being baked according to the directions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgbgt89 Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 That looks so fucking awesome. Hope it sticks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 flatter than a bitch on a big wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted December 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2011 Didn't stick. Finally scored some military flat black poly, gonna shoot it right over this stuff and see if she works....would be a bitch to have to sandblast all that paint off, re-mask and all that. Hoping to get it all shot this week. Then I have to order some minor bits and pieces and hopefully can get her back together and test fired before it gets too cold in the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Been a month - how about an update Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirPsycho Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 I still have my motor in frame. I have been working other parts, getting them ready for paint. I have my tank sand blasted and split in two to repair the corrosion. I am trying to keep the cost down so I will be doing the bike in phases so I can ride it between the phases. Are you using the stock airbox???? I want my bike ready before VMD. Thanks for the advise on engine removal. To protect the piont cover and engine build a box for the motor to rest on/in when putting it back into the frame.Nick I want to ride Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted April 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Ok. I know it's been a loooooonnnnng time but the build is moving forward. Had the cylinders, head and valve cover painted by robs recycle (great work, message for details). The vht flame proof shit I tried was a complete waste, it's designed for steel exhaust headers, not aluminum engines. Anyway, I got my parts back tonight and just got done ordering $220 worth of seals, gaskets and a race quality can chain roller and slide assembly from cycle x.. AS Soon as that order comes in I can start to put my mill back together. Pics of the paint job will follow soonish, the parts are in the trunk and I am going to bed. Thanks for being interested, I can't wait to get this build done and on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted August 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 Ok, been a long time and she still isn't back together....but I'm close. Need to make a set of ring compressors and I can get the jugs on. After that I need to order up some stiffer valve springs and the head can go on. Then a cam and she's done. I'm using a tool my dad made out of a vice grips like 25 yrs ago to do the springs, works like a charm. Should I lap the valves while I'm at it? Pulled one tonight and the seat is still smooth and shiny. Only issues I can find is on 3 of the valves there is wear from the tappet adjuster on the end of the stem...I'm gonna let this go to avoid shelling out the money to have the head ground and re-valved. I'll take pics during the assembly in case anyone is interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 Lapping the valves will let you know if you actually have a reasonable seat/seal going on.Might be worth the time spent.The valve stem end wear... is the length of the valve still within spec?(And valve not stretched, lol.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaDoc Posted August 16, 2012 Report Share Posted August 16, 2012 Need lot of pics, keep it posted. always interesting to see a build come along Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Ok, was hoping to just lap the valves, install the new springs and shims and be done with the head.Fuck no. Did one cyl. Intake seal and guide were in good shape, went to install spring and shim and either my home made spring compressor doesn't jive with the shim or it goes under the spring seat. Moved on to the exhaust side, pulled the valve and the seal disintegrated. Check stem play and the guide is shot. Had to resort to coarse lapping compound to get the pits out of the valve.This adds about $80 for guides and seals and some serious time media blasting all the carbon off the guides before pressing them out. The build drags on..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Valve cover after sanding down the highlights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Bottom end with pistons attatched. The priority envelope contains gaskets and seals yet to be fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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