interior perimeter drains

[Gixxus Christ!]

My basement leaks from all 4 walls and I'm sick of the water. I'm looking into an interior perimeter drain and sump pump and have zero experience in this area. Anyone ever done one? Can recommend a contractor in the akron/canton area? Once I get it to stay dry I will be finishing it and building a bar, so naturally anyone who can help me out is welcome to shots nd beers once the project is complete.

[justin0469]

EDIT: Damn it, I didn't see Akron/Canton area. These guys don't work up there I don't think. I'll leave it here in case anyone else comes across this

PM tbutera2112

and if they can't do it or you want another estimate, call Kyle at K&G contracting 614-260-2116. I used them for some basement and foundation work before and they know their shit and knock stuff out quick.

[MidgetTodd]

The more effective way is to stop the water from getting in instead of dealing with it on the inside. Excavate the exterior walls and recover them with the sealant then a rubber membrane and then lay drain tile and back fill with gravel instead of dirt.

[snot]

Everdry is going to fix ours in june.

1000rrrider is correct but while your at it put in a drain system around the outside. Then re-grade around the house.

All interior systems fail due to the water is still getting in.

[MidgetTodd]

1000rrrider is correct but while your at it put in a drain system around the outside.

Thats what I said vvvv

then lay drain tile and back fill with gravel instead of dirt.

[snot]

Thats what I said vvvv

Sorry...I was reading while riding in the car and missed that part (dumb girl moment).

Everdry runs around 15,000. But its done in 3 days and they do put the drainage system in the basement too. We tried a lot of other crap that didn't work.

[Gixxus Christ!]

Hmm. No way I can come up with $15,000. I'm hesitant to tear out our landscaping, wood deck and concrete patio to waterproof the outside. I've read that the interior drain that flows into a sump pump and then gets pumped out to the street or into the sewer works just as good as an exterior one.

[cbrbrent]

You will have more moisture than you want with the inside drain

[Helmutt]

With water still penetrating the basement, you'll have mold/moisture issues sooner than you think. Snot and I learned this the hard way after buying our place with a finished basement - Everdry really does have the method for ELIMINATING water problems in basements - any interior systems will still allow hydrostatic pressures to take their toll on the walls/footer - personally, I'd rather have a pro company do the work correctly and quickly, with everything warranted -- We have a big deck, stone walkway, and flowerbeds that they guarantee will be as they were.....but its up to you and your wallet - may be some DIY scenarios that would still allow you to seal it up on the outside?

[snot]

We wasted a lot of money on ours. We tried a drain inside but it didn't work. The reason is water will come through the wall instead of draining straight down. It has to be done from outside. Your landscaping is worthless if your basement is wet and the house is full of mold. Check out the home shows this winter. You can diy it just takes time and a strong back.

[Bubba]

Interior perimeter drains will generally keep water from flowing across your basement slab, but won't help with water entry thru cracks and defects in your foundation walls or with humidity and the related mold issues. And if you've got a block foundation, fugget about it! Only permanent fix is to seal from the outside and regrade your yard to keep the water away from the foundation.

Had the same issues at an old house. Even had the exterior deck, same as you. I undid the deck joists from the band board, dragged it away from the house with my 4x4 in one piece. Paid an excavator the $65/hr for him to dig the foundation to the footer, then I sealed the cracks with hydraulic cement, coated the foundation with waterproofer, installed wicking board, installed new footer drains and pea gravel, then had him come in and backfill and slide the deck back into place. Cost was under $2000 for the whole thing...plus a crappy week of being horribly muddy and tired. If you pay a company to do the labor, you'll get a huge bill...but it ain't rocket science. It makes a gawdawful mess of your yard for a few weeks (months at this time of year?) but it'll look fine come spring.

Problem with wet basements is that they cost you a lot of money (or pain) to fix, but the money you spend doesn't add a red cent to the resale value of your house. The value is strictly to you in the "liveability" of yer hacienda.

[Gump]

What Bubba said... Careful with the excavator if you do it yourself. You could rent a trencher and trench a void away from the house (french drain) and lay gravel add mesh so it drains away from the wall. Your creating an underground path instead of a wall to hit then drain away. Easier/cheaper but not the best way.

http://www.easydigging.com/Drainage/installation_french_drain.html

[MidgetTodd]

I've read that the interior drain that flows into a sump pump and then gets pumped out to the street or into the sewer works just as good as an exterior one.

Wrong

You will have more moisture than you want with the inside drain

Correct

[MidgetTodd]

Do it right the first time.... or pay again to have it done right the second time

[snot]

And remember to "call before you dig" or you could have a huge mess.

Also if the system drains to the sewer you may need a permit. Check before you start.

Edited December 29, 2011 by snot

[Steve Butters]

And remember to "call before you dig" or you could have a huge mess.

Also if the system drains to the sewer you may need a permit. Check before you start.

this is a big no no...you dont run that into a sewer...you either run it out into the yard or pump it into the street where it runs into a storm drain

not to mention theres no way to run an outside drain into the sewer without some redneck rigged up setup running pipes into a sewer cleanout or something since sewers are generally 6-10 ft underground ....but i have come across a job where these people made a room addition with a sump pump in it and run it directly into their sewer pipes inside of their house...what a mess...the city called us out to un-fuck it, we had to cap off the sewer and run the sump pump out to the road

their hose bib cracked in the winter and caused a ton of water to spill around the foundation....they didnt cap the sump pit and dryer lint got into it and plugged up the sump pump....once the sump pump stopped working the water built up and flooded the basement....showed up to drain basement and install new pump only to realize their whole system had to be re-run

Edited December 29, 2011 by Steve Butters

[Steve Butters]

one other thing about calling before you dig - when you call make sure to ask what all theyre marking...not sure how it is up there but in franklin county OUPS doesnt mark water, just gas....make sure theres markings for water, gas, and electric if its not overhead...theres keys out there to tell you which color paint means what

we almost smashed a 8" main water line awhile back because we thought it ran behind the house since we didnt see any markings for it....then we found it while digging after we gave it a love tap with the trackho teeth....called OUPS and they said they dont mark water in franklin county

(the city of columbus does however, so like i said, it depends where youre at...so ask when you call)

[Steve Butters]

also - depending how old your house is, if you dig all the way down to the bottom of the foundation, i highly recommend replacing some of your sewer pipe where the 4" metal comes out of the house into the 6" clay tile.... cut it off at the 4" and add a 6" cleanout...this will allow you to get fullsize cutters in it in the future if you ever run into a problem...without a cleanout, or with a 4" like new homes have, you cannot run a 6" cutter (your sewer pipes are 6" on the outside of the house)....makes it hard to snake a 6" line with a 4" cutter and expect results

[Steve Butters]

and for the foundation....dig it down, tar it, add visqueen, put in drain tiles, back fill the bottom 2-3 ft with gravel and then dirt over it

no need for rubber or anything like that.... go to lowes and buy black roofing tar...get a bucket with fiber, and a bucket of non fiber...mix them 50/50, you will get a great consistency for sealing up block...lay the tar thick and even and then put the visqueen over it for extra protection

it is a fairly big job...be careful running the excavator, its not exactly "hard" but its a lot of work ....theres a reason everdry charges so much lol

i do believe everdry digs down to the foundation, tars and seals it, and then an interior drain.....do they run exterior drain also? i work with a guy who used to waterproof for them and he was always bitching about hauling gravel out of the basement where they busted up the floors to run the interior drains

Edited December 29, 2011 by Steve Butters

[Gixxus Christ!]

Well shit. As far as the sewer thing goes, there's a floor drain right in the basement, was just gonna run the sump into it. I simply can't afford to pay a company to come dig out all around the house. As far as the interior drains not solving the problem, the internet and my mom must have lied to me. She had b-dry come put interior drains in her basement and it completely solved her problem, and her basement.t would FLOOD before she had it done. I remember being a kid and sploshing around in ankle deep water down there. She payer $5500 to get it done about 6 yrs ago and hasnt had any moisture or mold problems at all after having finished the room with carpet and panelling.

[Steve Butters]

Well shit. As far as the sewer thing goes, there's a floor drain right in the basement, was just gonna run the sump into it. I simply can't afford to pay a company to come dig out all around the house. As far as the interior drains not solving the problem, the internet and my mom must have lied to me. She had b-dry come put interior drains in her basement and it completely solved her problem, and her basement.t would FLOOD before she had it done. I remember being a kid and sploshing around in ankle deep water down there. She payer $5500 to get it done about 6 yrs ago and hasnt had any moisture or mold problems at all after having finished the room with carpet and panelling.

your floor drain should run to your sump pump - not your sewer

we have seen great results with basement waterproofing with only using interior floor drains.

i would go out on a limb and say its the most common job done to repair water in basements - because of the price difference.

if its all you can afford to get done, go for it. it will be better than not having them.

call a place and get an estimate for interior waterproofing....they will run interior drains for you. then just pick up a dehumidifier and attach a hose to it and run it into your sump pit or drain. thats how i would do it on a budget if it was my house and digging out and re-tarring wasnt an option

[Gixxus Christ!]

Well there is no sump pump in my basement now and the floor drain is tied in with the toilet, shower and sink, which I hope run into the sewer.

[MidgetTodd]

Floor drain is not tied in to the sewer. That is a major code violation. And your basement would smell like a sewer. It drains to the gravel around the foundation.

[Steve Butters]

Floor drain is not tied in to the sewer. That is a major code violation. And your basement would smell like a sewer. It drains to the gravel around the foundation.

this ^

install interior drains and a sump pump and pump it out to the yard or the road....thats the cheapest way to do it

cut a hole in the concrete, dig hole, drop sump pit into it

cut floor out around perimeter of basement, install interior drains and run to sump pit, back fill and repair floor

then when water comes up from under the foundation it will go into the pipes and run into the sump pit to be pumped out

just run pvc out of the sump pump and up to ground level, punch hole in block and run it outside, bury it and run it out to a yard drain or run it to the curb and through the curb (check for permits needed if you drill into the curb) to pump into the road...repair block with mortar

interior drains will solve your problems of water on the floor, and a dehumidifier will help with the moisture

all you will need is a concrete saw, small jack hammer, and a hammer drill....and of course, a shovel or tiny excavator for running the yard drain.....and rent a small concrete mixer for repairing the floor....in fact, i think you could probably rent all of those tools

Edited December 29, 2011 by Steve Butters