jarvismb Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Ever since I built the AR, I have been really interested in the basic building blocks of shooting in general, and I've decided to try some reloading. The science of it fascinates me, so I'm looking forward to trying it.I have my press and dies and other assorted tools coming in, and if I've learned anything since I've gotten into shooting it's the more I learn, the less I realize I know. That being said, I was curious if the more educated amongst you hill-jack, gun-hoarding, redneck, meat-eating hippie-haters could drop some knowledge on a Jew and give me a few pointers.I know I have a lot to learn and to take it slow, so I'm all ears if you have some tips or look-outs for me before I try to kill myself with consumer-grade explosives.(and if it helps, assume I want to hoard ammo for the Rapture or something, just so I fit in) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidgetTodd Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 First you pack as much powder in the shell as you can then add just a touch more. Then you shove the heaviest bullet you can find in the shell. Then you dip the bullet in Magnesium. Then you give it to a buddy to test fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 First you pack as much powder in the shell as you can then add just a touch more. Then you shove the heaviest bullet you can find in the shell. Then you dip the bullet in Magnesium. Then you give it to a buddy to test fire.Don't forget to hammer the bullet into the shell if it won't go all the way in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarvismb Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 First you pack as much powder in the shell as you can then add just a touch more. Then you shove the heaviest bullet you can find in the shell. Then you dip the bullet in Magnesium. Then you give it to a buddy to test fire.Don't forget to hammer the bullet into the shell if it won't go all the way in.Dear ORdN,You have not let me down.Love, - Jew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawi kid Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Buy a few reloading manuals and read them. Sounds boring but the little things covered in them is valuable. Secondly find a mentor. Sit down and have someone show you the process. Third never load when you are tired drunk or thinking about something else. That is the way people get hurt and guns get destroyed.Reloading is funfor me. Its relaxing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beegreenstrings Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Reloading manuals are far more effiecent and far more reliable than labels on bottles of powder. Dont make that mistake. Dont trust that a little extra is OK. If you dont know dont try it at all. If you still dont know ask. Doesn't matter who, just ask. If you cant find a true realiable answer then dont do it!Just because a 223 and a 222 (for reference is only one number off) never assume they are close enough, never assume I (as in you) am skilled enough to make it work. You will waste more eyes than you have trying to figure that one out. Powder might be the same. Bullets are close. Primes are the same. Cases are a tad bit different in the fact that the manufacture of the die sets makes a seperate die for it. Then be sure to get the die for what you are reloading. (is that last statement confuses you just ask).Powder is not powder. One burns hotter one burns cleaner. One burns faster. and so on and so on. These things can be found in the reloading bibles and books. Produced by Hornady and Nosler and about 30 other different manufactures all already trying to look out for your saftey.and never skimp... Buy what you need and if you cant, wait till you can. Hate to see a new member leave the site so soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarvismb Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 This is good stuff guys. I realize this must be taken slowly and carefully, and I'll be getting a manual of my own this weekend. I've been reading one of my tech's books, but I think it's best to just get my own and put in some time before I start.I'm going to start with only one type of load (223) and learn all I can about the process before even consider my other types. I think this will be a fun learning experience to keep the cabin fever at bay this winter, and since I'm not in this to arm a Waco compound, I won't be disappointed if I don't amass some crazy stockpile in a month's time.Thanks again guys, this is all helpful to read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crb Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 No talking about guns, ammo, reloading, shtf, and or zombies as it may offend some members. This is a MOTORCYCLE forum damn it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 No talking about guns, ammo, reloading, shtf, and or zombies as it may offend some members. This is a MOTORCYCLE forum damn it! Dang it. And I was just going to tell him that if the bullet won't fit inthe shell because there's too much powder that he should heat up the shell with an oxy torch to make the power settle down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawi kid Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 My bullets compress the powder on my match loads.... but I'm a trained professional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beegreenstrings Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 My opinion...Start on pistola rounds. So much easier. Rifle rounds, your getting into case trimming and a little more precise bullet seeding/setting crimping detail. MOST pistol rounds do not get into such detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarvismb Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 I already ordered the case trimmer and depth gauge. I've read that some people don't always trim, but I want to follow all the steps and measure between each stage.Masturbating after losing a thumb doesn't seem worth the shortcut. Like giving yourself the world's worst western-grip style handjob ever... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flounder Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Since your loading for .223/5.56. (Bolt Gun or AR?)Youll get into the habit of picking up spent brass at the range that you can use yourself so....MAKE SURE YOU INSPECT THE HELL OUT OF THE BRASS FOR CRACKS, SPLITS, CASE HEAD SEPARATION, ETC.Anything Berdan primed can break the pin on your decapper fairly easily since the primers are crimped in place. Ive broken a few. (Guessing you have a Lee setup).If its reloadable, make sure you full length resize any piece of brass that you pick up that wasnt fired from your rifle or else at some point you will end up with a round jammed in the chamber of which you will have a fun time trying to remove.What Trimmer and Depth guage did you get. And what are you calling a depth gauge?Go slow, pay attention, write things down so you remember for next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawi kid Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Yeah I forgot note taking. That's a big part too. Yo should see some ofmy note pads Lol maybe ill post a few up later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarvismb Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Since your loading for .223/5.56. (Bolt Gun or AR?)Youll get into the habit of picking up spent brass at the range that you can use yourself so....MAKE SURE YOU INSPECT THE HELL OUT OF THE BRASS FOR CRACKS, SPLITS, CASE HEAD SEPARATION, ETC.Anything Berdan primed can break the pin on your decapper fairly easily since the primers are crimped in place. Ive broken a few. (Guessing you have a Lee setup).If its reloadable, make sure you full length resize any piece of brass that you pick up that wasnt fired from your rifle or else at some point you will end up with a round jammed in the chamber of which you will have a fun time trying to remove.What Trimmer and Depth guage did you get. And what are you calling a depth gauge?Go slow, pay attention, write things down so you remember for next time.AR for now, so i assume (and clearly correct me if I'm wrong) I'll need to pay attention to both the case length before charging and the C.O.L. after bullet seating to be sure it all cycles properly. Since I won't be doing this to amass a doomsday stockpile, I'll only be reloading brass that I control the history of. Only firing brass that I've shot from my own loads or new mfg'd rounds.I only plan on using boxer primed 223 brass since I won't be messing with Berdan shit or NATO primer pockets. Maybe someday when I'm better, but for now, I'm starting with straightforward stuff so I keep my variable count as under control as possible.I'm using a LEE turret press, and the depth gauge (perhaps I called it by the wrong term, so again, please correct my blunders) is a part of the case trimmer that trims the case by using overall internal depth when the round is spun on a drill chock or a zip spinner thing. At least that's how it was described to me, and how it appears on the LEE site.Yeah I forgot note taking. That's a big part too. Yo should see some ofmy note pads Lol maybe ill post a few up later.Both make good points on note taking, and I plan to follow the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarvismb Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Where do you guys buy your consumables (powder/primers/bullets)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flounder Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 (edited) Where do you guys buy your consumables (powder/primers/bullets)?Anywhere that has a good deal. Just remember when buying powder/primers online you will have to pay an additional $20 Hazmat charge for shipping. For local places, Fin,Feather,Fur has the best supply of reloading supplies I have found in the entire state and the prices are not that bad.I tend to order stuff when one of my friends puts together a group buy or dealer buy. Bulk .223 bullets are cheap. I paid $77.77 for 1K of 55gr FMJ the last order I was apart of. Basically breaks down to $7.77 per/100Im guessing this is what you meant by the case depth gauge/trimmer (i.e. the longer silver rod looking thing) FYI. Make sure you get a camfer tool and primer pocket cleaner. Edited January 12, 2012 by flounder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarvismb Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Anywhere that has a good deal. Just remember when buying powder/primers online you will have to pay an additional $20 Hazmat charge for shipping. For local places, Fin,Feather,Fur has the best supply of reloading supplies I have found in the entire state and the prices are not that bad.I tend to order stuff when one of my friends puts together a group buy or dealer buy. Bulk .223 bullets are cheap. I paid $77.77 for 1K of 55gr FMJ the last order I was apart of. Basically breaks down to $7.77 per/100Im guessing this is what you meant by the case depth gauge/trimmer (i.e. the longer silver rod looking thing) FYI. Make sure you get a camfer tool and primer pocket cleaner. I was hoping someone would mention a local place, so I'll check out how accessible FFnF is, and maybe set up a trip. Thanks for the tip.As for the picture, yes, that's exactly the set of tools I got. I read somewhere that I would need the chamfer tool and the pocket cleaner, but I wasn't sure. They weren't expensive, so I just went ahead and got it to be safe, and since you also back that statement, I'm glad I did. Thanks for the replies, I appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flounder Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 You need the camfer tool for after you trim the brass to remove the nasty edges trimming creates. Camfering the outside of the necks is so you dont scratch the chamber, cut yourself, smooth extraction, etc. , Camfering the inside of of the necks is so you dont scratch up the jacket of the bullet as well as to provide easier seating when seating the bullet. You need to do both after you trim.Youre going to learn really quick how brass prep sucks.... get ready for some sore fingers.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawi kid Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Or just make sure you have man hands and not girly keyboard hands like Flounder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flounder Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Or just make sure you have man hands and not girly keyboard hands like Flounder.Enjoy your powder dispenser. Would you like me to send you a pic of mine again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawi kid Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 I'm working on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarvismb Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 You need the camfer tool for after you trim the brass to remove the nasty edges trimming creates. Camfering the outside of the necks is so you dont scratch the chamber, cut yourself, smooth extraction, etc. , Camfering the inside of of the necks is so you dont scratch up the jacket of the bullet as well as to provide easier seating when seating the bullet. You need to do both after you trim.Youre going to learn really quick how brass prep sucks.... get ready for some sore fingers..I assumed something like this from reading about the steps, but it's nice to have it all spelled out. Thanks again.I imagine this will be tedious, but if my hands get sore, I'll just have jbot do it, since he's got popeye arms for obvious reasons... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bandit12 Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 If you're not doing a whole bucket of brass, I use this setup to keep from getting cramps in my fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarvismb Posted January 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Well, round one is over, and I've learned a lot.Most importantly, I've learned that 99% of the time, reloading works every time.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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