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.308 rifle or 6.5grendal or 6.8SPC upper for AR?


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Buddy asked me this I have no idea really. Apparently 6.8 is good for 500 yards, 6.5 1000 yards, and .308 beyond that. 6.8 or 6.5 you can just buy an upper and use the existing AR lower. .308 would be a whole gun. .308 rounds are abundant but weighs a lot.

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The majority of rifles shot at long range matches like the ones you will find at thunder valley are .308. Keep in mind what a 1/4 moa is equivalent to at a thousand yards.

I have seen a .223 hit the 1000 yard targets consistently. It was the firt time I went to thunder valley and I was astounded.

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I'm still crossing my fingers on hitting the 1000 with my ar this summer. I wanted to last year but never got a good day to try it whenever I was up at the range. It see,s I bring a lot of wind when I show up. I think the First match I shot with walther last year it was a constant 25 mph and gusting up to about 40-45 lol.

We did manage to get on the 850 pretty consistently.

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I'm still crossing my fingers on hitting the 1000 with my ar this summer. I wanted to last year but never got a good day to try it whenever I was up at the range. It see,s I bring a lot of wind when I show up. I think the First match I shot with walther last year it was a constant 25 mph and gusting up to about 40-45 lol.

We did manage to get on the 850 pretty consistently.

Buy some mk262 black hills. Should give you the little extra to make 1000 a bit easier. I'm thinking I'm roughly 12 mils to 1k with my AR, so an extra 100 FPS would help that out a bit, since I only have about 9 mils of adjustment.

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I have seen a .223 hit the 1000 yard targets consistently. It was the firt time I went to thunder valley and I was astounded.

I spotted for Karl and watched him hit 1200yards consistently with a 223 (ok, 223 AI) running an 80gr VLD.

Also, 6.5 can be pushed past 1k. I've watched my friend Mark from SAC hit 1165 with his .264LBC running 123gr scenars.

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I am looking to do a slow long range build one piece at a time.

Good luck with that and if you plan to stick to that strategy, don't ever, ever, ever text kawi...he will make you spend money like you wouldn't believe.

I bought a stripped lower from PSA on black friday, an upper a month later, and everything else about 2 weeks ago, all at one time because kawi kept sending me links to parts.

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I spotted for Karl and watched him hit 1200yards consistently with a 223 (ok, 223 AI) running an 80gr VLD.

Also, 6.5 can be pushed past 1k. I've watched my friend Mark from SAC hit 1165 with his .264LBC running 123gr scenars.

It was his daughters gun remember? :lol:

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I shoot my 308 out to 1200 yards on a regular basis. It's a 1/4 minute gun at 100, I'm guessing closing to .6-.7 MOA at a grand.

:confused: Isn't a 1/4 MOA gun a 1/4 MOA gun at any distance?

1 MOA = 1.04 in at 100 yds, at 1000 yrds = 10.4 in.

MOA isn't a measure of the size of your groups. The size of the groups is variable depending on distance. MOA is the measure of the arc space.

Edited by kiggy74
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Good luck with that and if you plan to stick to that strategy, don't ever, ever, ever text kawi...he will make you spend money like you wouldn't believe.

I bought a stripped lower from PSA on black friday, an upper a month later, and everything else about 2 weeks ago, all at one time because kawi kept sending me links to parts.

You gotta have willpower my friend. :) I find it super easy to tell him no.

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:confused: Isn't a 1/4 MOA gun a 1/4 MOA gun at any distance?

1 MOA = 1.04 in at 100 yds, at 1000 yrds = 10.4 in.

MOA isn't a measure of the size of your groups. The size of the groups is variable depending on distance. MOA is the measure of the arc space.

Not necessarily. Practically speaking, there are so many factors that come into play, especially at distance, that you shouldn't take the 100y groups at face value and assume its going to hold true at all distances. You could have a rifle that, mechanically speaking, its capable of shooting 1/4moa at 1k, but the combination of rifle, ammo, environmentals (aka WIND), and shooter make it a realistic 1/2 moa. Also, some loads in rifles need to "settle" and you may see an instance where a certain load/rifle combo prints a 1 inch group at 100 yards, 1 inch at 200, and 1.5 inch at 300, 2ich at 400, etc... So at 100 yards, you are able to hold roughly a 1MOA circle, but as the round stabilizes you end up with being able to hold 1/2 MOA circles at further distances.

Also, I'm well aware of MOA and MIL being an angular measurement. That said, its common to measure targets and group sizes based upon said angular measure as it shows precision or size relative to distance.

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Not necessarily. Practically speaking, there are so many factors that come into play, especially at distance, that you shouldn't take the 100y groups at face value and assume its going to hold true at all distances. You could have a rifle that, mechanically speaking, its capable of shooting 1/4moa at 1k, but the combination of rifle, ammo, environmentals (aka WIND), and shooter make it a realistic 1/2 moa. Also, some loads in rifles need to "settle" and you may see an instance where a certain load/rifle combo prints a 1 inch group at 100 yards, 1 inch at 200, and 1.5 inch at 300, 2ich at 400, etc... So at 100 yards, you are able to hold roughly a 1MOA circle, but as the round stabilizes you end up with being able to hold 1/2 MOA circles at further distances.

Also, I'm well aware of MOA and MIL being an angular measurement. That said, its common to measure targets and group sizes based upon said angular measure as it shows precision or size relative to distance.

Gotcha, Thanks! :cheers:

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Back to the 6.5 vs 6.8 bit, I'd go 6.5 for target/varmint or longer range shooting due to better bullet selection (higher BC). However, if you are looking for something to pack more punch than .223 or to be used for game other than varmint, 6.8 SPCII (make sure you get the spcII chamber and I think 1/10 twist) is a better way to go.

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