TwiztedRabbit Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 whats the shops name ? any idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Wait, you mean like the whole SUV is shaking, Im sorry I missed that. When you mean shaking you mean like sway side to side or up and down. I ask because when I lifted my truck the new shocks are much stiffer and bigger blocks make it even stiffer yet. Thus it shakes up and down more on like the concrete section right on 270 by easton. Im sure you know what I mean. BUT it doesn't shake side to side at all.The steering dampner is more to take the vibrations out of the front 2 tires from side to side movement. http://roughcountry.com/shocks-stabilizers.htm I have the dual and love it.Ive never heard of balancing a tire on a car because that won't make a difference. A tire/wheel should be round, with it being round, it makes more sense to have it on the balancer itself. I've used them and know how they work, the axle/drive shaft will move, balancers dont.Jason, also, my Cougar had Hub Centric rings, with them installed on the aftermarket wheels no issues BUT without them wobble and shaking/shuttering. You may want to call XD and ask if your fitment needed them. If you bought them locally theres a good chance the 18yr old tech didn't put them on. Last thing I can think of is the actual mounting point or hub mount on one is NOT flat. This would cause the shaking/vibrating as well.Let me know what you notice etc and I will try to keep helping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwiztedRabbit Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 ok...yeah the entire truck is shaking.. feels like up and down.. i am not sure as ive never felt it before.. yes it does have centric rings.. and yes they were installed.. question tho everytime they balanced them they took them off... then reinstalled on the truck with them.. would that change anything?last i watched them clean the mounting points on the hub against the rotor.. so im pretty much at my only ideas to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Wow, okay I'm running out of ideas here. My last thought is simply that the sidewalls are overly soft vs the previous tires. BUT I just saw they were the Rugged Terrains, which are generally soft altho possibly stiffer than the Coopers.It might just be what it is and just going to be doing this. The hud rings not installed shouldnt matter for balancing.Also don't get fender flares unless you have a negative offset, trust me, makes the ride look more goofy unless they are the cut and permanet mount ones that actually become part of the body and fenderwell.The bolt ons are only good if you run negative offset wheels. My 951 MM's have - like 16, and they would look sick, but my oem is not so I don't install them becuase I swap for winters etc. Just saw an F150 today looking like this, ghey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblosser Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 ...meaning theresa can feel it in the passenger seat...easier than foreplay... Sorry. Maybe try those little bead things, "Dynabeads" I think? Allegedly the 4x4 guys with bigger tires swear by 'em, and it seems like some folks on here liked them in their bike tires.Never had an issue with 33's on the 3/4 ton... just had them balanced at the tire shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwiztedRabbit Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 yeah im out of ideas.. and i agree with john i didnt think about it.. there is a slight offset that you can see in the pics but it is maybe an inch looks good as it is...i did just say fuck it and ordered the rough country steering Damper.. hope for the best, i will still try a diff tire if needed so we will see.. i just dont get it.. ive never had this happen before and i've ran 33's on my jeep so its yeah whatever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Youll probably have that before Jennings fyi. so easy to do, love mine. Im guessing just the tires. Ill go for a ride with you in FL and check. actually after I look at the sidewalls Im sure Ill know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwiztedRabbit Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 actually john i was hoping you might have a minute before we go to help me throw it on really quick, i went ahead and sprung for 2 day shipping.. so no later than thursday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bacchus Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Sorry, I don't remember the name of the place. Had a buddy who was sinking entirely too much money into an F150 and that was only way he was able to get it to roll smoothly.I'm sure a shop, if they take the time, should be able to get them balanced. Here's a neato little write up:TIRE MATCH MOUNTING & CUSTOM WHEEL HANDLINGMotor, Apr 2008 by Mavrigian, Mike»findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_q···25419956quote:What Is Match Mounting?Match mounting involves positioning the tire onto the wheel to minimize or eliminate thefinal combination of radial force variation and/or imbalance (radial force variation is explained later in this article). One match mounting approach involves aligning the tire's point of maximum radial force variation (its high spot) to the wheel's radial low spot (where the wheel's radial runout is the lowest). This is called the Uniformity Method. The other approach involves simply aligning the tire's lightest balance point to the wheel's heaviest balance point, called the Weight Method.OE tire suppliers are required to mark a tire's radial runout high point, and OE wheel makers are required to mark a wheel's radial runout low point. This makes it easy for the OEMs to match-mount tires to wheels from a radial force variation standpoint during production. In some cases, these marks are made with paint dots that help service technicians remount tires down the road. However, sometimes these marks are made using temporary stickers, which either fall off or are removed after mounting. This leaves no readily visible reference marks for the tire technician for future service.If a tire does feature color dots on the sidewall, one or two dots may be used. A red dot indicates the tire's radial runout high point. A yellow dot indicates the tire's point of least weight, from a balance standpoint.For decades, it was common practice in the aftermarket to mount a tire so its red dot aligned with the wheel's valve stem, since the valve stem area was normally assumed to be the wheel's lowest point of radial runout. Aligning the tires high point to the wheel's low point (theoretically) reduces or eliminates the chance of developing a radial force variation (RFV) in the tire/wheel assembly.' RFV (again, an issue of runout, not imbalance) can cause a vibration that might be mistakenly diagnosed as an imbalance problem.Times change. With the advent of styled custom wheels, the valve stem location may no longer indicate the wheel's low radial runout spot. In other words, it may no longer be viable to assume that aligning a tire's.red dot to the wheel's valve stem will address any potential RFV issues.Consequently, a procedure that was once easy has now become complicated. The only way to accurately matchmount a tire to a wheel is to actually measure tire and wheel runout. The end goal remains the same: to align the tire's high point to the wheel's low point. The wheel itself can be easily checked for radial runout by mounting it to a hub and slowly rotating it while monitoring the rim edge with a rigidly mounted dial gauge. However, the only acceptable method to check the assembled tire/wheel package for radial uniformity under load is to use a state-of-the-art wheel balancing machine that features a load-roller that applies road-simulated load to the inflated tire. Such a machine will not only check for dynamic balance but will also locate the tire's high spot. If this high spot doesn't correlate to the wheel's low spot, the machine will let you know where to relocate the tire on the wheel to minirnize RFVIf you don't have access to a roadwheel type of balancing machine, and you don't know where a wheel's lowest radial runout spot is located, you can default to using the Weight Method, which involves aligning the tire's yellow dot to the wheel's valve stem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwiztedRabbit Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 ^ they actually did this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
216cityboy Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 ^^^Road force balancing & force matching. We do it all the time. Makes a difference depending on tire brand. Michelins have the least issue with balancing but some other brands require a little help for fine tuning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carwhore Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 time to trade it in son. I know a dealer that accepts trade ins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwiztedRabbit Posted March 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 lol.... how much for a new chevy 6.0 or a tundra sr5? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.