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Rider Mistakes and Lessons Learned


abdecal

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Park it near the lane in a parking lot. I had a car almost run me and my bike over because they didn't see me and assumed the parking spot was empty. Park in first, and turn your bars left. It makes it a little more stable.

In the left lane of the highway, stay on the right track. It puts you in mirrors better as you pass people. Right lane, left track.

Stay out of semi wake. its a scary place.

Stay to the inside of circular ramps. Shit flies off trucks all the time.

As stated, wet leaves are like oil. Also tar strips can get you a little squirmy. I almost lost it making a left turn at an intersection, because I didn't expect the tar to give as much a it did. I also wave back and forth when nearing intersections. The left turners are blind sometimes. And downshift so people hear you better.

As a newb, it takes time to build core muscles. Do it though. It hurts much worse when you cant write because your wrists are so sore.

The best and probably too simple to appreciate is simply enjoy riding. Yes, always try to be safe, but if you aren't having fun, don't do it.

Which reminds me, check your emotions before you ride. Angry is exhilarating. Until you're coming up to a red light at 100, trying to honk and stop and not flip over the end or low side. Ride happy, not angry.

Damn, bringing up some good ones here too. The tar strips are also commonly referred to as "road snakes", and they will give a LOT more than they appear to. Be ready for some ass-pucker moments if you're trying to do any maneuvering on them.

Wet leaves are a no-no, I also try and stay away from manhole covers, ESPECIALLY when they are wet. Steel doesn't have nearly the same traction as asphalt. If you're in mid-turn, let off the gas and try to avoid if possible.

+1 on semi's. The two-fiddy doesn't have a ton of power, but it should have enough to punch it and pass the truck. If you've got the option, I normally put the hammer down to get around the semi and get out of the wake. If you're in a bad part of the air wake, it'll freak you out if you aren't prepared for it.

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I thought release agents aren't really anything anymore?

-VanDy

They're not. Almost no manufacturers still use them on motorcycle tires, especially performance tires.

The surface of a tire however is closed and can be a little slicker than one that is scuffed from asphalt.

If you're changing your tires, run over them with a little sandpaper first, 160 grit just a few swipes, and you're 100% good with no "break in" needed.

Edited by swingset
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It's simple physics, the bike (at speed) WANTS to stay upright. There's a variety of reason why tankslappers happen, but until that front wheel calms down and stops wobbling (the source of the slap), touching brakes (front or rear) is going to cause all kinds of fuckups. If you grab clutch (letting the bike move under it's own momentum) and relax your arms on the bars, the wheel will calm itself down in no time.

I get the part about how the bike wants to stay stable at speeds. I was just unaware of how to try and save a wobble.

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I get the part about how the bike wants to stay stable at speeds. I was just unaware of how to try and save a wobble.

You don't really try to save a wobble. The more you fight it the worse it gets. Best thing to do is relax and ride it out (hope it rights itself). Steerign damper is really the only thing that can help you at this point.

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You don't really try to save a wobble. The more you fight it the worse it gets. Best thing to do is relax and ride it out (hope it rights itself). Steerign damper is really the only thing that can help you at this point.

Well then I'm outta luck no damper on my bike, not too concerned with it right now.

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What usually causes the wobble? Brake locking up?

Could be a variety of factors. The true cause is the front wheel starts to wobble back and forth along the steering axis, causing the entire bike to start shaking as a result of the steering inputs. That can be caused by locking up the front brakes, hitting a large pothole the wrong way, stuff like that.

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Could be a variety of factors. The true cause is the front wheel starts to wobble back and forth along the steering axis, causing the entire bike to start shaking as a result of the steering inputs. That can be caused by locking up the front brakes, hitting a large pothole the wrong way, stuff like that.

Oscillation can do it too...speed, vibration, wind resistance. Some bikes have been notorious for it at certain speeds.

I've only experienced it once (in the desert on a dirt bike) and it went from mild oscillation of the bars to violent uncontrollable shake in about 1 second...very little time to even consciously react or relax...so I went asshole over elbows.

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SUV's can stop quicker than you can,

4 wheel disc brakes and a lot more rubber on the road.

SUV's can out accelerate you -450hp vs you.

Don't for a second think you can out maneuver a cage - it may prove you wrong.

And of course, people are idiots.

Watch for the oil strip in the center of the lane at stops.

Ridding in the rain?

*Use a cars tire print, less chance of hydroplaning.

* Avoid the center of the lane where the slippery oil is.

Gravel hates you.

So does grass, leaves, 2x4's and other road debris.

So do people on cell phones.

+1 to

* always have an escape planned.

* You go where you look.

* The tires have more grip than you think - if you think you need it you are going to fast.

Have fun!

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Yeah, tank slappers are a bitch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GvHtChodNk0

&

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZ1srcQMa_0&feature=results_main&playnext=1&list=PLDED5D84F6AE93CBB

People have some really good advice in this thread. I have heard that hitting the gas hard can bring you out of a slapper, making the front tire light or even off the ground and I can see how that would work but you have to be really experienced with wheelies in an "oh shit" moment, lucky, crazy, or all of the above. Clutch it up and don't try to force it correct.

The slapper gets set in motion from things people have already said, but mostly when you gas it hard and the front wheel comes up a bit, even 1/2 inch... In that time the front is off the ground, if the handle bars get cocked a bit, when the front wheel touches back down on the ground, centrifugal force will whip the wheel straight again, sometimes a few degrees more than it should. Depending on a lot of things, it starts a cycle of correcting the wheel straight but keeps "over-correcting". Scary as hell!!!

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SUV's can out accelerate you -450hp vs you.

HP to weight? That 450hp in a 6,500lb behemoth is nothing to 100ponies pushing 550lbs. I can destroy an SUV any which way you can measure, and I'm on a relatively tame Vstrom.

Some bikes aren't up to it, but most modern sport bikes are much faster than an SUV, and are far more agile - both of which are of great advantage.

That said, if you're in the place where you need speed to save your ass from an SUV, your situational awareness has failed you. Brakes will save you 100 times before your throttle will, even in motion.

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Ha! Steel manhole covers can be slippery when dry. Same for steel plates over road construction.

Wet leaves won't necessarily feel slippery, and might not be slippery. But will save slippery as ice for that special occasion when you didn't want it.

Gravel will stop your front wheel from turning, if too much brake is used (the back wheel also). Worse than ice sometimes. Look through the gravel to where you will be on pavement again. That's where you want to be and upright when you get there.

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Riding in the wind today felt like it was trying to push the bike out from under me. Sucked so I'll wait till tomorrow to ride

Wind is disconcerting, but you're not going to crash. Loosen up on the grip, let the bike sway, it's 95% the top of the bike moving while the wheels stay in one place tracking as they should.

I've ridden in very strong crosswinds, and it feels like you're going to go into the next lane but if you don't fight the bike you can still ride along without being blown off your course. It's even worse on a big tall bike like mine, too.

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HP to weight? That 450hp in a 6,500lb behemoth is nothing to 100ponies pushing 550lbs. I can destroy an SUV any which way you can measure, and I'm on a relatively tame Vstrom.

Some bikes aren't up to it, but most modern sport bikes are much faster than an SUV, and are far more agile - both of which are of great advantage.

That said, if you're in the place where you need speed to save your ass from an SUV, your situational awareness has failed you. Brakes will save you 100 times before your throttle will, even in motion.

I think he is referring to the 250, which only has 30HP.

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Wind is disconcerting, but you're not going to crash. Loosen up on the grip, let the bike sway, it's 95% the top of the bike moving while the wheels stay in one place tracking as they should.

I've ridden in very strong crosswinds, and it feels like you're going to go into the next lane but if you don't fight the bike you can still ride along without being blown off your course. It's even worse on a big tall bike like mine, too.

Cool. Took a little ride around the block to try this out after reading your comment. Bike moves back and forth more than I want it to but I don't feel like I'm losing control. :)

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SUV's can out accelerate you -450hp vs you.

Really?

My wife's old Grand Cherokee 4.7v8 weighed 4800 Call it 5000 with a guy driving it). It put out 305hp. 134hp per ton 0-60 in 6.6 seconds

Closest you'd get in a normal person SUV is the SRT8 which comes in at 425hp/5000lbs = 187hp per ton. 0-60 in 4.8 seconds. That's Mustang GT territory.

My wee-strom weighs 485 wet, make that 700 with my fat ass on there. 62hp. About 194hp per ton. 0-60 in 3.9 sec

If you are riding a 250 then sure, you'll struggle to outrun a cota bus... Anything bigger and you still have the acceleration advantage.

The bike gives you advantages in acceleration and maneuverability in tight spaces. Us that to your advantage. If you need to get away from someone then the bike gives you many more options.

DL650 60-0 is 122 feet. Cherokee is 140 feet. Think about that next time an SUV is tailgating you. Either give yourself more stopping distance so you can slow more grandually if needed, or just change lanes and let him past. The bike nevers wins when the "whose got a bigger dick" competition becomes the "whose vehicle protects him the most in the crash we just caused" competition.

Edited by Scruit
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