JohnG Posted March 31, 2012 Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 I'm gonna throw my two cents in here, just because I had a nightmarish incident with a used trailer... If you're going to buy used, get the bearings replaced and repacked or do it yourself before you go any distance with the trailer loaded.I was trailering an 83 GS1100 up from Kentucky with a 5x8 that I had just bought off a "friend" who assured me that the trailer was road ready. Coming up 71 right in the middle of Cincy another driver was flashing his beams at me and that's when I noticed the right side smoking. Bearing had run dry and burnt out. I had to leave her on the side of the road, drive the rest of the way to Columbus to get my tools, bearings and grease, then back down to Cincy to effect the repairs, now in the dark. It sucked. but got er done. Since then I've had no problems, but it was definitely a lesson learned... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted March 31, 2012 Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 ^ done that. Now I use bearing buddies in every trailer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted March 31, 2012 Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 ^ done that. Now I use bearing buddies in every trailerYup. They're on the "to do" list this spring... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted March 31, 2012 Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 Word of caution. Make sure u use high temp wheel bearing grease. Just because it's in a grease gun does not mean its correct. I prefer marine grade stuff or synthetic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprez55 Posted March 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 Word of caution. Make sure u use high temp wheel bearing grease. Just because it's in a grease gun does not mean its correct. I prefer marine grade stuff or synthetic.Good looking out, that's the kind of stuff that would be helpful to know.If you buy a steel trailer' date=' see if you can afford a "tube top" frame. The added structural integrity will be noticed, especially if you keep it for a long time. Sure-Trac makes a powder-coated steel frame, wood deck with a quality ramp for ~$1200. Probably less, if you buy a 5x8 unit. The one I'm looking to purchase next weekend has 15" wheels and only weighs 585 lbs. The axle is only rated for 2000 lbs, but my cars can only pull a maximum of 2500 lbs, anyway. For a little more money you can buy a tube top with a 3500 lb axle. It's only a few hundred dollars extra, if that. I wouldn't bother with the TSC trailer, because it's only about $150 less than a higher quality trailer.[/quote']What factors do you consider the TSC trailer to be inferior in? With the recommendations I have gotten here, I certainly don't like the 12" wheels and they do use (or appear to use) angle iron top but other than that it seems reasonable. $1200 is certainly too high for me, which is one reason I was looking for used, so if that's the price point I am looking at for that feature than I will probably skip it. I was looking at the following trailer, but I'm not sure if it is tube steel or wood from the picture:Also, Hellmutt, is the torsion bar suspension that much of an advantage? I haven't actually seen any used trailers advertising that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprez55 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 I'm probably over thinking all of this but I would rather not sink a lot of money into upgrading a trailer to what I want or going through the hassle of buying and selling multiple ones over the years so I would still like some feedback/recommendations. Anyway, I found this little gem on CL right in my budget with torsion bar suspension and a 6x6 box (a bit small lengthwise but I would just modify the front wall or something). My biggest concern here is the wheels are presumably 8" and it would look quite difficult to upgrade.Another option would be to blow the budget up with an aluminum trailer and hopefully never replace it and get years of use with little maintenance. This one as well has the 8" wheels as well but I could just slap on some 15" wheels or something without much hassle besides removing the fenders and I wouldn't mind if the bed was a bit wider, but being a flat makes that less of a concern. With this trailer not having sides and being aluminum, is it significantly weaker or more flimsy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 The first one is a mulch trailer. It woulf be a PITA to modify it to fit a bike.Not all that impressed with the second one either and you would at least have to change the hubs to fit 15" wheels on it.What is your budget? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Not to over-sell the HF models, but they do make one that is a step up from the 1100 lbs model a bunch of us have. The load capacity goes up to 1900(?) and it has 13" wheels instead of 12".Build it with a solid 4x8 treated wood deck, and that makes it flex MUCH less. Then add tour own wooden side and front rails for even more strength, and it should be solid so long as you connect the corners of the rails with some 90 degree shelving brackets. Trailer + lumber shouldn't be more than $500 at most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad324 Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 i wouldn't go near either of those trailers with 8" wheelsGive us the budget $ and I bet someone can find you an excellent choice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprez55 Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Max - Why would I need to change the hub? I would assume its a standard 4-bolt pattern so I could just switch out any correct rim.I was hoping for a budget around $300 for the trailer so I could get the Pitbull trailer restraint system and end up close to $500. I have been looking at more utility style trailers so that it could be used for a lot of other things (moving furniture etc. primarily) instead of just the rail style ones. I have 15" rims and I could sell the 8" rims/tires for the cost of new radials (the 15's have blizzaks on them now). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad324 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 IMO $300 isn't gonna go far in quality. I'd honestly save up a little more to get something the size you need, newer than you'd find with 14-15" wheels already.I'd offer to let you borrow mine whenever but its sold and I've recently discovered I won't be buying one to replace it as my dad is picking up a 6x12 v nose Georgia special on his way home from Florida Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprez55 Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 I have more cash, so I could increase my budget if I needed to. Like I said, I have no idea about trailers so I figured if new HF ones could be had for ~$250 and used ones of a higher quality would just be near there. What type of budget would you recommend, and what would that get me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad324 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 I'd be thinking more around the 600-800 range. I'm not sure what the utility trailer market is right now but last year my 5x8 heavy duty utility trailer with gate ramp and 15" wheels pulled a premium at $800 and I feel like that was on the high end of the spectrum. It had everything I needed and wanted at first until I realized I could sell it and upgrade to the enclosed for just a couple hundred bucks more.In comparison, my first trailer was a 3 rail in fairly good condition that I bought and sold for $300 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Max - Why would I need to change the hub? I would assume its a standard 4-bolt pattern so I could just switch out any correct rim.I was hoping for a budget around $300 for the trailer so I could get the Pitbull trailer restraint system and end up close to $500. I have been looking at more utility style trailers so that it could be used for a lot of other things (moving furniture etc. primarily) instead of just the rail style ones. I have 15" rims and I could sell the 8" rims/tires for the cost of new radials (the 15's have blizzaks on them now).Wrong. Different bolt pattern size. $300 is just going to buy you problems. Spend the whole $500 on a decent used trailer and spend $15 on a decent set of straps instead of some fancy pants name brand chock "system". You don't need that goofy shit to safely haul a motorcycle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprez55 Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Hmm, seems 500-800 will be a better range then. I will start looking and undoubtedly have more questions. I know I don't need the PTRS as I have pulled a couple bikes over long distances with Uhaul trailers, but I think it just might be easier on me each time I load it up including getting worried if I see the bike jump any in the rear view. We'll see, they fetch a pretty penny unfortunately Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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