JStump Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 (edited) So after getting my bike painted this spring and removing the fuel pump from the tank I have had a persistent gas leak. I have taken the tank off several times to fix the problem, each time I take the fuel pump out of the tank and reseat the huge O-ring that goes between the tank and the metal plate with the pump attached. I also replaced the plastic feed and return fittings with metal ones. I can't figure out why it is still leaking or where. I finally got fed up and took gas safe patch putty stuff they sell at autozone and put it around the fittings and the metal plate to try and stop the leak, it worked for a while but now the leak is back, I don't think it liked to stick to the plastic tank. How the hell do I seal this damn tank? Also, what should I use on the fitting? Teflon tape or some kind of liquid seal like loctite? I originally didnt put anything on the threads because it was such a tight fit it was ripping off the teflon tape before it even was even 2 threads in and wasn't sure what to use that was gas safe. What should I do? This bike is really starting to piss me off! I am about to put it away for the winter at my grandparents place if it keeps getting colder but I don't want to smell up their garage with my gas leak. Edited October 1, 2012 by JStump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vf1000ride Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 http://www.hylomarsealant.com/Good for anything that leaks and might flex while in use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 your not over torque(ing) the bolts are you? that will make the o ring leak. When i put a new ring in the TL i has to go buy a torque wrench in inch pounds because my 3/8" one would not go low enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 oh yea and ive always heard replace the o-ring everytime you remove the plate/ pump, do not reuse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentracer Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 does the oring have a tapered side?on my R6 it does and if it's not installed properly it will leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted October 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 (edited) http://www.hylomarsealant.com/Good for anything that leaks and might flex while in use.About that hylomar stuff, would that work on the fittings if I just spread it around the fitting or is it more like a loctite type of application where you put it on the fittings before putting them on? I cranked those things in there so who knows if they will come back out haha.oh yea and ive always heard replace the o-ring everytime you remove the plate/ pump, do not reuseEven for huge ones, like 6" in diameter ones? I figured that was only for the small fragile ones.your not over torque(ing) the bolts are you? that will make the o ring leak. When i put a new ring in the TL i has to go buy a torque wrench in inch pounds because my 3/8" one would not go low enoughIts possible, I wasnt going too hard on them though.does the oring have a tapered side?on my R6 it does and if it's not installed properly it will leak.Ill have to check this out. Edited October 1, 2012 by JStump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted October 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 Well I'm not pouring anything into the tank, all the stuff I have done has been on the outside. And now that I think about it, the original fittings were pretty much glued in so you're right, that's most likely where the problem is. It's just hard to tell since the gas covers the bottom of the tank and its hard to see where it's coming from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 (edited) Teflon tape isn't meant for fuel line fittings. It's more of a plumber's tool for tapered threads.Although I did use it once on a defective carb fitting to get it to stop leaking.Fuel fittings have a sealing surface inside that doesn't need anything else.To proper torque one, you would need the crow's foot extensions to use on that.A one inch offset crow's foot does not change the torque. A longer one would.Proper torque and torque pattern with fresh gaskets should work.Same with fuel line banjo bolts and fittings.Inspect all fittings that should seal on their own for damage that might cause a leak.edit: And absolutely clean surfaces for the gaskets to seal on.It is one of the harder things to do correctly on automotive and aircraft.There are tracer dyes that can be put in the fuel, and allow UV light to show the leak better.edit: Where a fitting might screw into the tank body is different, and that might use a sealant when installed.It should say so in the service manual if it does need that. Edited October 2, 2012 by ReconRat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vf1000ride Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 About that hylomar stuff, would that work on the fittings if I just spread it around the fitting or is it more like a loctite type of application where you put it on the fittings before putting them on? I cranked those things in there so who knows if they will come back out haha.The hylomar is a gasket compound. It needs to go on before everything is put together, it would go on the threads first. You can also use it on paper, rubber and metal gaskets just like you would RTV but the stuff never truly gets hard. For most things it actually makes taking apart easier as it doesn't cure into a solid. It stays a very thick gel/paste unless you overheat the stuff. When first out of the tube it spreads as easy as RTV and is about the same consistency. Once the chemicals flash off it gets much thicker, almost the consistency of modeling clay but stickier than all heck.I use it for all kinds of things around the garage. In this picture you can see the blue sticking out from under the gasket on my cylinder heads. I used it to glue the old head gaskets back onto the heads when I put them in the blast cabinet. The stuff sticks well enough to keep the gaskets in place even when hitting them with a bead blaster.Sorry for the fuzzy image. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted October 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 Teflon tape isn't meant for fuel line fittings. It's more of a plumber's tool for tapered threads.Although I did use it once on a defective carb fitting to get it to stop leaking.Fuel fittings have a sealing surface inside that doesn't need anything else.To proper torque one, you would need the crow's foot extensions to use on that.A one inch offset crow's foot does not change the torque. A longer one would.Proper torque and torque pattern with fresh gaskets should work.Same with fuel line banjo bolts and fittings.Inspect all fittings that should seal on their own for damage that might cause a leak.edit: And absolutely clean surfaces for the gaskets to seal on.It is one of the harder things to do correctly on automotive and aircraft.There are tracer dyes that can be put in the fuel, and allow UV light to show the leak better.edit: Where a fitting might screw into the tank body is different, and that might use a sealant when installed.It should say so in the service manual if it does need that.The fittings I put on are not intended for fuel specifically. They are metal versions of the plastic ones which I ordered direct from the manufacture. They are just quick release fittings that can be used for anything and are actually geared towards medical applications I believe so there is no seal on them. That sealant is probably what I need for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted October 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 Yes. Those fittings require a thread sealer of some time. Also' date=' you should use petroleum jelly or KY lubricant on the o-rings where the two halves mate. This will aid in the insertion of your male thingy into your female thingy. It also makes connecting the fuel lines easier. If you haven't purchased Viton o-rings for the connectors, let me know. I keep them on the shelf.[/quote']Yeah, I have a few. Stocked up when I kept taking the tank off because they are so easy to pinch, this is a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 You could also use red Hi-Tack gasket adhesive. It sprays on and tacks up when it cures, similar to the hylomar sealer mentioned above, but being a spray on may make it easier to apply and in thinner coats. We use it to station head gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, water jacket plate gaskets, fuel pump seals, water pump gaskets, oil pan gaskets, etc on diesels as well as other various around most lubricant/coolant/fuel exposed surfaces. Not sure about steering fluid or ATF's but would be fine against petroleum based fuels.Use it liberally on threaded fittings when teflon tape or pipe sealant wont do. It's resistant to most any fluid inside of an engine and doesn't harden either. Stuffs cheap, think we sell it at $4 a can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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