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Turning brake rotors..


bshultz0930
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you can't turn them. they're probably already at the min thickness. any less they will warp easier.

you can resurface them to remove the old pad material. which is often the cause of pulsations.

and any time you change pad compound you should resurface them.

check out a rotor hone. http://www.braketech.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=83&Itemid=100

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Right sides bent.. Makes Sense since one day it just happened, out of no where. So for now I just crimped the hose to that caliper because its so bad. But if anybody has any laying around for 00 zx6r j model ill buy them from you!

Seriously dude? I HOPE you're just trolling, and didn't actually crimp a brake hose.

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K. Yer forgiven, altho a remedy like this from an auto-tech scares me a little...

If it was me, I would have prolly disconnected the line to that caliper and plugged it with a cap screw or similar. It seems to me if you have some bleed though at the line clamp under braking, you could end up with a dragging brake pad and overheat the fluid. But if yer comfortable, I'm good with it...it's your ass on the line. Carry on.

Edited by Bubba
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K. Yer forgiven, altho a remedy like this from an auto-tech scares me a little...

If it was me, I would have prolly disconnected the line to that caliper and plugged it with a cap screw or similar. It seems to me if you have some bleed though at the line clamp under braking, you could end up with a dragging brake pad and overheat the fluid. But if yer comfortable, I'm good with it...it's your ass on line. Carry on.

This. I'm an professional automotive technician, and I know a thing or 2 about how this stuff works. As Bubba posted above, what about a little fluid getting by your clamp? Those clamps are meant for troubleshooting only. Here's the deal, you get on the brakes hard, some fluid gets past the clamp, you need to release the brakes because the wheel's locking up, you go to release the lever, and guess what? That fluid on the caliper side doesn't have anything to push it back and your wheel stays locked, or close to it, and you lowside, maybe into the other lane of oncoming traffic.

Riding a motorcycle is dangerous enough without doing stuff such as this. If you move to this area, make sure to tell me so I can tell our manager NOT to hire you.

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Internet bullies win again. They do have a good point tho. Better safe than a greasy stain on the road.

The other thing that I forgot at the time of my last post in this thread is that using just one brake when it's designed for 2 will cause the working one to get hotter. This is even more likely if you have been riding the bike for a while (not a new to you bike) you WILL tend to brake the way you normally do, which could be more than one rotor is designed to handle, therefore causing damage, or even dangerous brake fade.

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traditionally when rotors cause pulsating, they don't need turned. They are bent.

Curious for me, I am new to motorcycle riding, not new to working on car rotors or brakes cause I have done it a lot, how do they just one day get bent? Did they get bumped or hit with something while sitting?:confused:

Is this another term for warping from getting really hot?

Edited by blue-yamaR6s
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Curious for me, I am new to motorcycle riding, not new to working on car rotors or brakes cause I have done it a lot, how do they just one day get bent? Did they get bumped or hit with something while sitting?:confused:

Is this another term for warping from getting really hot?

not sure what his are like but you can rest knowing your R6 rotors will not be getting warped from even the most hard core riding. the ama teams run the stock rotors. me and you couldn't harm them if they can't

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Curious for me, I am new to motorcycle riding, not new to working on car rotors or brakes cause I have done it a lot, how do they just one day get bent? Did they get bumped or hit with something while sitting?:confused:

Is this another term for warping from getting really hot?

Most common is bending them while transporting in a wheel chalk where the rotor hits the chalk. Another is it hitting something when falling over, or when moving in a tight space. I'm sure there are exceptions, there always are.

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Heat warps rotors way too often. Anything that would cause an uneven distribution of heat, or a rapid quenching unevenly. The way it's torqued can also do it on a car, but not with a floating rotor, I'd think.

When I read it was crimped, I thought it meant the fitting was re-crimped. There are obviously tools for that. Not very common to find anyone that knows how to use them. They get used on aircraft assemblies a lot. But buying them nice and new and "cut to length" is easier and preferred. I haven't seen a hose crimp clamp in years. It's pretty rough on the hose, so it would get replaced anyway.

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traditionally when rotors cause pulsating, they don't need turned. They are bent.

Dont always agree with that at, many times it is an easy fix. Many times there is just allot of pad buildup on the rotors, although the carrier can possibly get warped. I just take a scotch bright pad and some non chlorinated brake cleaner, and really give the rotors a good cleaning front and back. Fixed the pulsing issues I was having with my C14, then I switched to Galfer HH pads and haven't had an issue since.

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It's definitely a bent rotor. Put it on a lathe not to cut but just to see the round ness. I remember the day it happened, riding home from work and the first time I applied the frot brakes, it about shook me off the bike. Idk how it got bent, I didn't drop it, hit it, or anything. Only thing I can think of is my 2 year old son likes to carry hammers around at home and beat things because he sees me and his grandpa working on things and just happen to get my rotor. But idk.. Ordered a pair off eBay.

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