ReconRat

well, thinking about it, a sudden release of clutch stalls. A slow normal release moves away at idle.

ack, you're right. The Frogg Toggs motorcycle gear is Road Toad.

I'm retiring on SERS/STRS. Most excellent. And under the cutoff. And have 30+ years outside to allow a full Social Security check. Get both. And Rockwell retirement. And Veteran's Administration medical. The only big thing that changed over the years was the retirement insurance went up to cover less. A national trend, the feds didn't help but didn't hurt, it was going there anyway. There are way more difficult changes needed to get where we want to go. I did see a lot of STRS quickly retire, to avoid their earlier cutoff. Poof, gone...

Close vents, I think... Weird, I've never had rain run inside. Also never gotten very wet wearing leather gear. I have a Frogg Togg motorcycle suit anyway, just in case. Wondering if the Walmart gear was motorcycle oriented.

My 919 has so much torque I can just pop the clutch at idle and lump lump away. I find that humorous. Any other bike I've had would just stall out.

I've used most all of those. But I'll use different things in different places. Dirty rear wheels being the toughest, I think. Almost anything will work on bugs, the trick is to let it soak first. Even a wet paper towel slapped on there will loosen them up. And a good way to start when washing a bike. Car wash preferred, but sometimes dish soap to help cut grease. PAM, heh.... good for spraying wheel wells on dirt bikes and 4wd to keep mud from sticking up in there. It's an Ohio thing.

Yup. Sounds like two problems, both in the carburetor. Pull carburetor and disassemble, soak in cleaner (even kerosene), shoot cleaner and compressed air through all tiny idle passages. At least twice, once isn't enough. Verify that air is getting through. Check float for leaking, float position, float needle seat and float needle, and try to figure out if that float needle fuel cutoff is leaking fuel into carburetor. Also check slide needle position and install. Sometimes give up and buy new float needle. Basically all aspects of parts that control the fuel level in the float bowl and combustion chamber. Or, pull carburetor and take it to CrazySkullCrusher...

lol... translation time... Economy is great If you have rosey blinders on... We're about to be ripped by Wall Street again... Again with the reckless credit spending... Investors and RE agents bought all the foreclosed houses cheap from the banks... Unemployment down after Feds gave free school to anyone unemployed... Bitching about not getting decent raises for four years... It's not the economy... It's Bush's fault... sorry Magz, that was too much fun

Also selective and misleading. See? That's why it's called statistics.

Data on the economy is based on statistics, which is selective and misleading. I simply measure the economy by looking at a row of ten little stores on the way to work every morning. Nine of ten occupied = economy good Nine of ten empty = economy bad The last 6 or 7 years has been the worst environment for small business I've ever seen in my lifetime. Somehow, it is now starting to come back to life. At a cost aggregated throughout society, I'm sure.

LOL, wait... I'm old enough to remember that is how the Vietnam War started.

Even most round tubular locks can be picked easily. I've seen it done in seconds, with a rolled up calling card. And with a gutted BIC pen plastic. I think the newer ones are resistant to that, but dunno for sure. Combination locks, those will open in a few minutes also, if a person can feel the tumblers move. Guess I like motion alarms then. They don't give enough time to figure out a lock. But those often give a lot of false alarms. I've worked long enough in and around theft prevention to say most of it will be cutters or hacksaw on the chain or cable. Something simple anyone can do. Brute force is also popular. As we say, we're slowing them down, if they really want it, they will find a way. At home I keep a camera and/or motion detector aimed at the driveway and/or motorcycle. Silent alarm inside wakes me up. If you can keep the stupid critters wandering around at night from setting it off. Serious... stupid dogs cats coyotes possums raccoons and a few deer move around constantly at night.

Value vs risk. Parting a bike out when stolen works best with popular or high end newer bikes. Those need alarm systems and/or tracking devices. The rest of us need less. Most stolen bikes are lifted into trucks or trailers or simply rolled away. Any lock/chain/cable makes it not worth the effort. Particularly anything with a motion alarm that makes noise. I go to Lowes and buy a long heavy cable (The type with loops at both ends) and a strong lock. Attach the bike to something that won't move. Even attach two motorcycles to each other. In Europe (and Great Britain) everyone has a front disk lock. Bikes there have a bad habit of rolling down hill and never being seen again. So the concept is relevant. You need something quick and easy when away from home. Get one that has a motion alarm and a lanyard for the handlebars so you won't ever forget it's still attached (You can make your own lanyard.) Very bad if you try to ride away with one on there. I wouldn't get too attached to finding the best one out there, just avoid the ones reviews say are junk. Offhand from reviews I'd consider one of the Zena disk locks or a Squire (British) for the U clamp style. Check the fit carefully, they just won't fit some bikes. At a bare minimum I'd get a small Master Lock Self-Coiling Combination Lock With Cable. (5 bucks, get two) That would work with holding down jackets, helmets, or the bike. On the good side, crash and theft rates are low for Ohio. But high for big cities elsewhere. I'd definitely have something along if on the East or West coast or in Las Vegas.

How many people here have ever run up to the bike from behind and vault onto it, knocking it off it's center stand? Not recommended for more than 300-400 pound bike....

grocery stores are good at about 18% errors in labeling. Unless you're catching your own fish, that's where you go. Some of this data is old, from before the FDA DNA checking. So it's getting better.

And did not know this. The US FDA has a DNA barcoding program in effect to combat the fraud. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/11/27/restaurants-dna-seafood-mislabeling_n_1114937.html

Same here. Somewhat famous dockside restaurant in Baltimore. I thought it was crap. Did you know... DNA testing of fish in big city restaurants, generally show an average of 39-55% of all fish sold is cheap catfish (or other cheapie), and not the item advertised. Restaurant blames the supplier, supplier blames the restaurant, yadda yadda... And nationwide isn't too honest either. all new york city sushi joints, 100% "other fish" More than half (59%) of the 46 fish types tested nationwide had mislabeling. only 7 of 120 red snapper samples (6%!) collected nationwide were actually red snapper. 84% of white tuna samples were actually escolar, “a species that can cause serious digestive issues for some individuals who eat more than a few ounces.” http://www.forbes.com/sites/larryolmsted/2013/02/21/fake-fish-on-shelves-and-restaurant-tables-across-usa-new-study-says/ The local news ran the same tests in Columbus and found the same thing.

DARPA handed out this project in the late 80s, to anyone that could come up with something. I worked on it a bit, got nothing... but did realize that guidance could go in the first round, and simple infra-red seekers could get the next 4 to 6 rounds to follow the exact same path. Cheaper that way. We were more interested in guidance for aircraft air-to-air cannon projectiles. The DARPA project that blew our minds was to design guidance in a one inch square ablative projectile that could be dropped/launched from orbit to a target on the ground. Wut? ablative = won't burn up on re-entry in the atmosphere

Either way, I don't care. But try high side on a light weight bike and it may want to tip over. Mostly if you put weight on the high peg. Or if you goof and hit a tail rack with your foot on a bigger bike. Low side is probably safest. Getting on is the same to me, don't care. Besides, why would I not want to know how to do this both ways? I'm not superstitious, not throwing salt over my shoulder every time I ride a bike. Parking, heh... I usually head in instead of Harley back in. But I'll back to a curb on an open street. But overriding all is, I will point uphill, not downhill. Seen too many bikes go over on their side in my days.

Sadly, the Orange Roughy is fished out and hard to find. It will be expensive if found. I didn't mention game fish, but blue gills and crappies (specks for the Southern boys) and walleye and yellow perch are all good.

Orange Roughy - maybe it was a one time deal, but that was nice Catfish - but results vary - sometimes good, sometimes so so edit: Flounder is good, but you have to spice it up - not much flavor - big on texture

I did not know that. That would be kinda a dumb design. Way back in the old bike era, I did check out some of the pod filters. Their published flow rates weren't good enough. If the newer ones do flow ok, that's good. And that centrifuge filter? Don't goof the little metal part on the cover that rides on spring pressure. If it fails, there is no oil pressure at all. Make sure it's working nice and springy when it goes back on. edit: Just read the part about carb overflow and screw plugs. Yes, definitely floats goofed up or the float cutoff seat failed. Might be able to just clean it up. If corroded, probably not. Will have to replace some bits. You'll find out soon enough, after cleaning the carbs.

I don't remember what's on the 350, but Honda runs oil through a spinning chamber on the end of a shaft. That separates the gunk and chunks.

Fuel filter? The only fuel filter is a screen inside the tank at the fuel pickup and another small one inside the petcock valve. Some people add in-line fuel filters on old bikes. But again, the flow rate must be high enough for the max flow rate. The little tiny fuel filters don't do that, they are for lawnmowers or something...

Most carb air pods are too small to flow a necessary maximum amount of air at full throttle. Yet people use them all the time. The end result is not enough air at full throttle, so the vacuum pulls more fuel than it should. Which washes the cylinder walls and weakens the oil barrier between piston rings and cylinder walls. Sooner than later, the rings fail. Same thing happens with a dirty air filter. Oddly, no filter at all isn't as bad as a very dirty air filter. I remember a Kaw 900 that would pull the oil out of the engine through the breather tube, at sustained full throttle, if the air filter was even a little bit dirty. Which of course trashed the air filter. Pain in the butt.