ReconRat

Yes, some fuel probably leaked into the crankcase. Usually it's the fuel tank petcock leaks. Or somebody didn't turn it off. It should be gone after an oil change or two. Plus when the engine heats up, the fuel will evaporate pretty quick. But a lot of fuel in the oil is rough on the engine. Thins the oil out too much. I've actually seen a fuel leak completely fill the crankcase. CB450s were bad about that. Saw one trash the rings and even one that trashed the valve seats (I know, how the heck did it do that.). Owner never shut the fuel off manually.

I had to stretch my brain to remember some of this stuff... I went with Blue Goose hot fire coils. Instead of coils from Dyna. Sadly, those are long gone. But still, getting rid of points with a Dyna can be worth it. Depends on how many sets of points you are buying. They aren't cheap, and sometimes the only thing you'll find is the entire base plate assembly. Costs even more. I replaced mine (CB550) with Dyna after finding a short on a brand new base plate assembly. That kinda pissed me off. I always kept all the old points and base plate parts. You never know when you'll need a piece or two. Although it would be impossible to find them now, I bet I still have them for 160, 350, and 550.

The 550 and 750 had points on little plates on the big plate. Both gap and timing adjust. (Is this found on newer 350s? I don't know.) Much better, but doesn't last any longer. I replaced with Dyna pointless ignition and hot coils. Good increase in performance. The old 350 type points plates don't have both gap and timing adjust for each set of points. Set the left gap, set the left fire with the base plate position, and then alter the right gap till it's firing correctly at the other fire mark. Obviously worn points will make that right gap get worse and worse, till new ones are bought. You might even find yourself cheating on the left gap trying to keep old points working. Even if you don't have a light or timing light handy, you can time it in just by carefully listening for the click of the spark when the gap opens. Don't try any adjust turning backwards. Turn the rotor correct direction when checking and adjusting. It's ok to back up a little and try again. Don't try turning clear around backwards. Don't try turning with the little bolt at the center of the ignition plate. Big mistake if it breaks off, it's the end of the cam shaft. You have marks for top dead center, Fire, and the two for max advance range. And another set of the same on the other side of the rotor for the other points/cylinder. There's a variety of markings on rotors. It's either LT and LF (left) on one side and just marks on the other (right), or just T and F (left) on one side and marks on the other for the right points/cylinder. Or even something different. It's a Zen thing, you have to be One with the bike sometimes.

Double check timing after tightening down the screws and plate. It can move a bit. Also, there's two marks off to the side that should be 32-34 degrees full advance range. Use a timing light for that. You can time it there if reving up some minimum rpm. You have to time both sets of points, one for each plug. Your best performance is typically with new points and timed at max advance. Timing at full advance doesn't work well if the points are worn, they just won't time in the same and it runs a bit rough. Mostly good when points are new. Worn points probably time in best at the F mark (idle). Make sure it's not idling too high, that would goof it. You should check the advance mechanism by revving up and seeing it hit in between those two marks anyway. To confirm the advance is working well. Carbs on the 350 can be checked in a fun way. Straddle the bike and reach down with both hands and flick the throttle cable lever at the carb, left and right. Compare the sound and response of each cylinder revving. It should be reasonably the same for both cylinders. 350 carbs needed cleaning or work almost every Spring to get back to working well. You can remove cables and loosen the carb clamps and just turn it out a bit to get at the bottom cover. Usually just opening the bottom and cleaning out crap helps a lot. Sometimes just draining the float bowl is good enough. There's a plug to drain it with.

Scanner Radio for Android - popular in Central Ohio area - good coverage currently lists Baltimore as number one station will run in the background unless you shut it off - has an option to send notification if something happens and a lot of people jump on https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.scannerradio&hl=en

I saw the 1968 riots. Those empty lots around town that are still there? 47 years? That's the buildings that burned down. Owners refused to rebuild or even to sell the land. Be careful what you wish for.

I back the bike up to the front of my van or Jeep and lash it down till the front wheel lifts. This works only because I have a center stand I can put on. (And a rack I can crank down on.) Usually put a cover back on the bike and pretend the wheel is still there.

I'd go for some Hefe Weizen. I've been to the Hofbräuhaus in Munich. I can see how it compares. We used to ride out to all the places in town. But it all sort of faded away. Dunno...

This just in, Apple has sole patent to "watch", "clock", "timepiece". All should be destroyed or turned in during the amnesty period.

I would back order this and just wait. The Hornady 128gr bullet used isn't currently in production. Probably all scarce until another batch is run. If there's still some in stock somewhere, grab it. I don't see any yet. Still searching. http://www.buffaloarms.com/Italian_Carcano_Ammunition_it-158109.aspx?TERM=AMO735CARC Privi (PPU) makes it sometimes. Good stuff. Here, this guy supposedly has in stock. http://mashburnssafarimilitarygood.sharepoint.com/Pages/RifleAmmunition735mmto93mm.aspx

From experience with old bike electrical gremlins... make sure the fuse box has clean contacts. Once they get light brown corroded, the heat generated there will cause fuses to blow out. Everyone looks everywhere except that. I've had three CL350, I liked them a lot. Don't set the exhaust valve lash at the minimum dimension. It doesn't like that when the engine gets hot. Ease up a bit. One of the valve rocker shafts is bored a bit off in the head on all of them that I've seen. With some engine wear, it will never quite adjust. Don't worry about that, just get it as close as possible. Some of the coils have spark plug wires that will unscrew. Replace those with generic from NAPA, cut to fit. I cut gaskets from an inner tube to put under the tail light bracket. Run a ground wire if needed. The tail light/brake light vibrates and blows bulbs out easy.

Looks to me like the battery might have burst on the CB350. So there is a lot of work to do there around that area. I would remove the back fender to work on that. You might have to paint part of the fender. Definitely open up all brakes and clean and inspect. Rims and spokes look pretty good though, that's unusual.

Yes, me too. I use pressure washers also. I don't think I've had a problem either. I think it's more of having a seal or gasket that isn't in good shape. And knowing what parts and places not to hit with the pressure. And not getting too close some places with the pressure. I'll have to try the WD-40 trick.

Or.... just go to WebBikeWorld reviews and read what they have to say. Great website... Motorcycle Cleaners, Waxes & Polish Reviews Motorcycle Cleaners, Polishes & Wax ReviewsAnd after looking around there, I'm going to try this on wheels and engine: Britemax Grime Out - http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-cleaning-polish/metal-master/britemax-grime-out.htm

That's a very nice 79 CB750. Looks like it was well cared for and stayed stock. There are some "don'ts" also: Do not use steel wool on aluminum. (Most of the aluminum is clear coated anyway, not a good idea.) Do not use ArmorAll or similar on tires or seat. Way too slippery. Avoid most automotive wheel cleaners. Too aggressive and can blemish surfaces. Use something like Simple Green. Avoid pressure washing. It gets past seals and gaskets too often. If the bike is dirty or dusty, wash it first. And yes, the Bike Spirits and Mother's Chrome Polish are quick and easy good stuff. Kerosene and/or mineral spirits are good solvents for really tough gunk. (Chain and stuff around it.) Lube the chain after cleaning or washing or rain. There are special cleaners and polishes for engines. Sometimes I use them, sometimes I don't. Haven't tried them all, expensive and unnecessary. I have my doubts about all "special" cleaners and polishes. Get some cheap microfiber towels from Harbor Freight or similar. Given the age of the bike, stay aware of electrical gremlins, and check connectors for corrosion when you can. Some can be cleaned, some will have to be replaced. Also check the front brake hydraulic line (and fluid), and replace it if necessary.

hey I like that one. That would be an M6 thread, I suppose. That would work quite well and low cost and quick.

True, but I'm not zeroing in on the battery itself, just the circumstance. Although I've seen defective batteries do exactly that, fail in the first 6 to 12 months.

I can't show a list without repeating a lot of internet research, but... I noticed that many lesser brands of batteries are also made by Yuasa with another name on it by marketing or contract. Add in the official and unofficial copies by other countries, and I would say most are all Yuasa by design. Apparently Yuasa knows what they are doing. I don't particularly care for the premium price of a Yuasa. I don't think it's always necessary to go there. And only one year on a Yuasa is not right. Something was very wrong with that.

Yuasa AGM or BikeMaster AGM. I've used both. The original Yuasa AGM in my 2002 still works, but I replaced it anyway. It's now a spare. That's 13 years old. Three batteries over the Winter, I just rotate the Battery Tender from one to another when I feel like it.

Some of the 10mm hex sockets will let the 10mm hex bar slip out. Held in by a set screw. It's short and should fit. Then turn it with a box end 6 point wrench. Just a possibility...

Buckeye Lake dam will get rebuilt. It will take two or three years. Water level will remain at low Winter levels until done. http://www.outdoornews.com/April-2015/Buckeye-Lake-dam-will-be-replaced/

Your best bet in Ohio is to stay the hell away from cars. They have bad habits like turning from the wrong lane without turn signals, blowing through stop lights and stop signs, turning dead in front of you across your path, etc. Especially rush hours, worst on Monday mornings and Friday evenings. And yes, tons of cars weaving and not staying in lanes. Lane splitting will get you pinched a few times. Lane splitting (and lots of other stuff) will often get you an enraged tail-gating cager behind you.

On the other hand, a bunch of years ago something similar happened on the East side of Columbus. A motorcycle accelerated at a gunman. Collected some bullet holes in his tank, but knocked the gunman down. Not recommended.

You could rig up a volt meter where it can be watched, and ride the bike. Over the years I've gotten the impression that 600 fuel pumps and/or fuel pump circuits are prone to failure. Not sure exactly what it is that causes it. Mostly seem to hear the exact same thing. Replaced the fuel pump and it happened again. Best guess. By running a jumper to the fuel pump, the circuit was improved. Better voltage, amps, etc. Somewhere in that wiring to turn on and prime the fuel pump, there is a voltage drop. Even a corroded connector could cause that. edit: And yes, it could be the fuel pump again...

How exactly does one use their helmet to knock a weapon from a hand? While moving. Can't quite picture this event...