ReconRat

Just for fun, here's what is in gasoline... Wiki again Additives Hybrid compound blends Combustion catalyst: an organometallic compound which lowers the ignition point of fuel in the combustion chamber reducing the temperature burn from 1200 degrees to 800 degree F Catalyst additives prolongs engine life and increases fuel economy Burn rate modifier increases the fuel burn time, resulting in an increased fuel efficiency Polymerization increases fuel ignition surface area resulting in increased power from ignition Stabilizer/demulsifier/dispersant: prolongs life of fuel and prevents water contamination Corrosion inhibitor prevents corrosion of tank and fuel system Deposit control additives, acting as detergents, clean the engine [*]Oxygenates Alcohols: Methanol (MeOH) Ethanol (EtOH) Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) n-butanol (BuOH) Gasoline grade t-butanol (GTBA) [*]Ethers: Methyl tert-butyl ether (MTBE) Now outlawed in many states for road use. Tertiary amyl methyl ether (TAME) Tertiary hexyl methyl ether (THEME) Ethyl tertiary butyl ether (ETBE) Tertiary amyl ethyl ether (TAEE) Diisopropyl ether (DIPE) Antioxidants, stabilizers Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) 2,4-Dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol 2,6-Di-tert-butylphenol (2,6-DTBP) p-Phenylenediamine Ethylene diamine Antiknock agents Tetra-ethyl lead Methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT) Ferrocene Iron pentacarbonyl Toluene Isooctane Triptane Lead scavengers (for leaded gasoline) Tricresyl phosphate (TCP) (also an AW additive and EP additive) 1,2-Dibromoethane 1,2-Dichloroethane Fuel dyes, most common: Solvent Red 24 Solvent Red 26 Solvent Yellow 124 Solvent Blue 35 Fuel additives in general Ether and other flammable hydrocarbons have been used extensively as starting fluid for many difficult-to-start engines, especially diesel engines Nitrous oxide, or simply nitrous, is an oxidizer used in auto racing Nitromethane, or "nitro," is a high-performance racing fuel Acetone is a vaporization additive, mainly used with methanol racing fuel to improve vaporisation at start up Butyl rubber (as polyisobutylene succinimide, detergent to prevent fouling of diesel fuel injectors) Picrate improves combustion, increases fuel mileage Silicone is an anti-foaming agent for diesel fuel, but may damage oxygen sensors in gasoline engines Tetranitromethane can increase the cetane number of diesel fuel, improving its combustion properties

Fiddling around on the internet, I see there are other additives in fuel also. Some in large percentages. These listed here are considered hazardous to touch, handle, or inhale. the percentages are odd, since added up and including 10% ethanol, it is a total of 76% "fuel other than gasoline". Wiki

Essentially the stability of fuel isn't as good as back when it was leaded gas. Yes, it does varnish up easier. The ethanol attracts water, which is one cause of fuel varnishing up. Oxidation is another. Elevated temperatures is a third. The additives like Stabil are good for fixing that. All fuel and oil has a shelf life, if not stored properly, and it isn't much more than 3 to 6 months for gasoline. But other sources of information insist that gasoline can be stored almost indefinitely if done properly. The ethanol does rot the steel tank out much faster, since the ethanol attracts water. On the other hand, a little water in the fuel will get burned up, since it mixes well with the ethanol. Wiki

Here's a decent diagnostics list for that trans; http://www.gmtruckhq.com/?q=node/93

Any vacuum leak anywhere, that would drop the vacuum that is used by the transmission. This means nothing if Jporter or ChevySoldier says that yours is a transmission that doesn't use vacuum to shift. I'm just relating to similar problems on old transmissions I've had. They are both way more up to date on stuff than I am. Other than that, a real good shop manual will have diagnostics for this. edit: I'm reading that this transmission shifts using solenoids from input from TPS and ECM. I'd check for trouble codes even if the check engine light isn't on.

Apparently that's how they've been taught to make turns. Over the line in the other lane use the whole road turns. No wait... maybe... they haven't been taught anything at all... edit: It is confusing. I have nothing against cruisers. And have seen friends who know what they are doing, just literally slam turns on cruisers to the limits of the metal parts that stop them from leaning farther. So it can be done, it just isn't being done by a large percentage of amateurs out on the road.

Old world diagnostics... vacuum leak... especially if it's slipping when shifting to top gear. Also, check for leaks around the sides of the transmission. There's one seal there that can do that. (o-ring) don't know if that model tranny has that though. 80% of transmission problems can be fixed without pulling the transmission.

You needs a nice aftermarket can. Something traditional looking. edit: I spoke too soon. I find nothing for that bike. Only a universal fit muffler. Although I've found that parts for older bikes can often be found in Canada. They like maintaining old bikes up there.

No it won't. I bought some because everyone says that. So far it hasn't worked on anything. It's worthless.

I fixed my old bike with NAPA parts. But the coils, that's another story. I bet it's not so much the plug caps, but the wire that it screws into is worn out. I replaced the wires and the caps. But not all wires come off the coils, some are molded into the body of the coil. That's a problem.

Old rusty shotguns is what I remember. But I'd like to get out there again. It's a fun place to wander about all day.

Many dancers and bar people have degrees or are working on them. They just don't admit that. They also don't tell people they are dancing part time. I worked with a lady engineer that had been dancing on stage for years. She definitely never told anyone. (She told me.) In two or three part time nights a week, she made more than what she took home as an aerospace engineer. She bought a nice house.

Motorcycle fatalities are a multifaceted problem. It's not just the wearing of a helmet. It also must include the age and experience of the rider. And the type/size of motorcycle, in relation to what a rider may have ridden before. It is also well known, that intoxication is a big factor. That should be dealt with also. Excessive road speed factors in also. Another is that riders with medical insurance, are survivors. I don't know why that works, but it should be mandatory for riders to have medical insurance for themselves and a passenger. Those items, along with wearing a helmet, eliminate about 80% of the fatalities. Now the other part. 80% of fatalities also are from either collision with a vehicle in an intersection, or failure to negotiate a curve or turn in the road. Split evenly about half and half. Therefore, if all intersections and corners/curves were eliminated, same result. 80% reduction in fatalities. Take your pick, neither will happen overnight.

Have fun with this one... "more money" & "job satisfaction" "Most said flexibility was the main attraction of the job." http://freemarketmojo.com/?p=12893

Sport Riding Techniques - eBook Sport riding for the streets. Download at: http://www.4shared.com/get/_0_6_iGp/SportRidingTechniques.html or at: http://www.mediafire.com/?ymy3jtjmgmu

After fiddling with carbs, check for air leaks between carbs and engine. That would cause a rough or low idle. No problem at higher RPMs. Spraying water around the joints will seal them temporarily and the idle will go up or smooth out.

I've got 8 or 9 helmets. Mostly Nolan and Scorpion. I like polycarbonate helmets instead of fiberglass. One old Bell. Two old Bucos. And a horseman's leather patrol helmet painted candy blue. Dont' ask. Hijack: Why would a helmet start up with wind noise on one side. I've been fiddling with it, but haven't found the problem yet...

I was hoping a few would say it's still a great place. Back-in-the-day we took all the crankshafts there for repair. It was a lot cheaper than buying a crankshaft. Don't know why, but I keep thinking the name used to be Columbus Crankshaft. I think I dreamed that up.

So basically have a backup when you buy or sell, or use a public location. A rider selling his Ninja in Savannah Georgia, was shot and killed by a prospective buyer who arrived to look at it. The shooter stole the bike, and ran, but was spotted leaving the area by arriving patrols responding to reports of shots fired. Pursuit of the bike ended in an apartment complex, where the shooter disappeared. Sealing off the area and searching for the shooter, he was spotted leaving in an SUV and arrested. http://savannahnow.com/news/2010-08-28/craigslist-killing-over-motorcycle-stuns-berwick http://www.ajc.com/news/police-craigslist-ad-may-601478.html http://www2.wsav.com/news/2010/aug/27/update-deadly-shooting-may-have-begun-craigs-list--ar-757887/

Still deciding if I'm going on this one. Been virused up all week. Argh. Sneezy wheezy sniffle stuff. Just want to have fun. Plus the red 07 is calling me. It wants to get out and go somewhere...

Also, since ethanol is hydroscopic (attracts/absorbs water), the aluminum and steel components in the fuel system can corrode. Not so much the combustion chambers and exhaust, but the carbs and fuel tank and fuel lines. E85 vehicles use stainless steel or plastic for all those parts. BTW, there's what appears to be a little ethanol refinery on 5th avenue out East. I have no idea what they are doing.

All Ohio pumps used to be clearly marked for E10 (10% ethanol). Which was the maximum allowed in regular fuel as an additive in Ohio, by Ohio law. But eventually almost every source of fuel had 10% ethanol, so Ohio decided displaying that marking on the pump was a waste of their time. Any other fuel, like an E25 or E85, has to be marked clearly on the pump. Ethanol is hard on polymers/rubber. But since ethanol is common in fuel, almost all vehicle manufacturers deal with it by changing materials to resist component damage. This means older vehicles, like those before something like maybe 1976-1978 will have problems with ethanol in the fuel, unless all the seals/rubber is replaced. The "sort of" official limit is vehicles before 1990-1995. After that, ethanol isn't supposed to effect engine/fuel system components. Main problem is simple swelling and softening of the rubber, or synthetic rubber materials. But there are horror stories of things like plastic floats in carbs simply melting or dissolving. I did run a higher ethanol in a 1976 Honda, and it didn't seem to have a problem with it. That was the old "Gasohol", when it was first sold. Can't remember exact percentage, but it was something between E10 and E25. (I want to think E20, but the stations would never actually say what percentage.) The ethanol could clearly be smelled coming out the tail pipe. Which means it wasn't all burning. Oddly, my gas mileage was a fair bit higher using it. The same fuel in a V-8 car, had terrible gas mileage. Dunno... edit: we had a thread on sources of E0 fuel, but I'll have to go find it. The list was short, but there are pumps at boat docks that sell E0. http://www.ohio-riders.com/showthread.php?t=61239&highlight=e85 Website listing sources of E0 - http://pure-gas.org/

Yeah, I wouldn't expect the splatter weld to hold up the same as the base metal. (Have the same metallurgical properties.) Not unless it were heat-treated again and all, and that would be too expensive.

The two Remingtons don't look bad considering they are probably Model 51, and 75 to 90 years old. Maybe $275 to $500 each. .32cal worth more than .380cal. (patent dates 1920 and 1921 were the last model made, I think...) Don't disassemble the Model 51 unless you know how to do so without damaging the grips. The hi-standards can be tricky also, without bending the main spring on re assembly. The Ruger is probably the early model, common and good for plinking. All Colts are collectible, but the Police Positive was common. The little Colt Junior .25 is nice (or .22cal short). All Colts only go up in value over time. edit: I just saw a Colt Junior 22 short for sale on internet for $550. Other Colt stuff listed is valued at approx 10x what it sold for back in the 70s and 80s.