ReconRat

From the service manual: Ignition and engine stop switch not ON Starter lockout switch or gear position switch trouble Starter motor trouble Battery voltage low Starter relay not contacting or operating Starter button not contacting Starter system wiring open or shorted Ignition switch trouble Engine stop switch trouble Main 30A or ignition fuse blown If it has the immobilizer circuit, it could be any of these also: 1. Ignition Switch 2. Immobilizer Antenna 3. Meter Unit 4. Immobilizer Amplifier 5. Joint Connector 1 6. Fuse Box 2 7. ECU Fuse 15 A 8. Ignition Fuse 10 A 9. Main Relay 10. Relay Box 11. Joint Connector 2 12. Main Fuse 30 A 13. Starter Relay 14. Battery 12 V 14 Ah 15. Frame Ground 1 16. Frame Ground 2 17. Immobilizer/Kawasaki Diagnostic System Connector 18. Water-proof Joint 1 19. ECU Must trace the fault to fix. I haven't found a electrical diagram for it yet. Just the immobilizer. edit: if it's some of the immobilizer parts, it should throw an error code.

... Or why you shouldn't believe everything you read in the news... An accident between an Indianapolis patrol car and three motorcycles. Four riders, one fatal, one critical, one serious, and one untouched. This first news article says the motorcycle crashed into the patrol car. Compare that with the second article that interviews the survivor. They were at a red light and weren't moving, and the patrol car hit them from behind.

It's only goofy if the baby's name is ... Honda...

Very possibly same metal components. This is the first time I've run into this type of the miniature connector housings. how dare you call anything Honda... goofy...

Plan B is to use two of the new mini 20-24 gauge Posi Lock Posi-Tap, and get on with it... Generally, can squeeze a larger gauge tap wire in there. NAPA and CarQuest should have them. But they are a new product. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=posi+tap+connector&x=0&y=0&ih=3_5_0_0_2_1_0_1_0_1.104_82&fsc=-1 http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=posi+lock+connector&x=0&y=0&ih=4_1_0_0_1_1_0_0_0_1.153_106&fsc=-1 The standard 18 gauge tap is a bit bigger. I don't crimp or solder much anymore, if Posi Locks are around. But they aren't cheap. Real good for road kit. http://www.posi-lock.com/

In the never ending search for electrical connectors that actually match the stock wiring harness, I found Eastern Beaver. (And can buy one at a time instead of 50 to 1000.) And lookie, here's the funky connector I'm looking for... (Not sure which one, I have to take the tail apart again to find out.) http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/050_Connectors/050_connectors.html Wrong color, but hey, a little paint or shrink tubing will fix that.

Sharps I've been to. They had an incredible number of bikes for parts salvage. Both indoors and outdoors. It was very muddy, be prepared for that if you go.

Rice Paddy in Columbus Doc's Place in Lancaster Sharp's Cycle in Chilicothe Cycle Recycle in Indianapolis Green's Motorcycle Salvage in Louisville I have no idea if all of these are still operational salvage yards There used to be a huge number of motorcycle salvage places in Buffalo NY. http://www.moto-directory.com/salvage.asp http://www.usedmcparts.com/links/ffa-Ohio.html

Can you believe that it's claimed they are selling 200,000 of these every day? Yeah, I'll be getting one also. Waiting for a deal where we get paid for getting a work phone.

I'm thinking the resin won't stick to the plastic bags. Better check that first.

stock, custom, street fighter, or rat... must now decide...

Ok, that was way better than the rumors that were generated. Someone thought you would be getting surgery for the hip/pelvis.

yeep, pdf of manuals are somewhere. Just have to find them.

What's been said is all true. So you're looking for methods that don't require high amounts of heat or pressure. Too expensive. There are hobby methods for smaller parts that might work. Using a double mold, of the inside and the outside. The amount of material would have to be laid in just right. I'm not sure I've ever seen a really large and thin part done that way. Or a resin spray gun could be used on a one sided mold. Those use choppers to throw shredded material into the spray mix. But... from a structural viewpoint, using shredded paper or plastic bags probably won't make an epoxy resin part any stronger. It might actually weaken it. But it is possible. Anything is possible. I'd experiment with various methods and techniques to see if you can get some strength in a mixture of resin and other recycled material. I'm sure it can be done, but it's the mix and method that need to be determined. Wood fibers (paper) can be very strong. That's basically what chip board and plywood are now. A mix of epoxy and wood. Normal resin and fiberglass mat or strands is what you'd be comparing it to. I'd think it needs to equal or out perform that. Don't forget that there are two basic types of fiberglass resin. The epoxy, and the polyester or vinyl ester plastic types. An example of something that can't be done yet now exists; Aircraft parts can now be made from aluminum mixed with shredded rice husks. Very strong parts. Most of the major hardware stores will sell quarts or gallons of resin. I preferred supplies from boat shops. Better selection and quality. And sometimes even a better price.

The only way I know is to use steam from a tea kettle. When it's done, the pages might wrinkle up. But if you put a piece of waxed paper between each one, and set weight on top the book, it should flatten out fairly well. Without sticking again. Which shop manual? The Bonnie? Or that other thing you just picked up...

Honda ST1100

Some of you might have caught the post about ShawnR hitting a deer, in the thread about motorcycles hitting deer up around Marysville. I realize he's new and not many of you know him yet. And it never showed up in the TV news or newspapers. http://www.ohio-riders.com/showthread.php?t=63647&highlight=deer From Shawn: Unfortunately we heard at work that the MRI showed hip and leg damage that I hear had to be operated on immediately. So the rumor is he went into surgery for that. Please keep him in your thoughts and prayers.He's going to be off his feet for a while I'm sure.

I remember in the 80s, that Japan started to re-write all their history books for schools. Now WW2 isn't their fault, didn't start it, didn't lose it, etc etc... Making it all our fault, of course...

I'm sorry... that was really really cool...

Oopsie, I knew that was wrong when I posted. I confused it with the Chinese (Iran/Russian) Sunburn supersonic cruise missile under development. Supersonic at sea level is possible by managing the shock wave propagated. The drag is much lower that way. So far only the Russians (with India) and the Americans have made any advancement. USA working on a Mach 4+ sea level cruise missile. USA first flew a supersonic cruise missile in the late 1950s. Of the 14 common supersonic cruise missiles, 6 are Chinese. No fear then, the Standard Arm on board ship can defend against ballistic attack easily. But not high speed cruise missiles. Fastest cruise missile so far. Russian/Indian Brahmos(Sunburn): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vp9KQ2JGfMg

I'm not worried. I''m sure the warranty will expire long before it's ever fired...

No fear, actual real mechanical hardware. Mach 10 cruise missile, which is 7500 MPH. Surface radar might pick it up about 25 miles away, skimming the surface of the ocean for an attack on an aircraft carrier. That's only 12 seconds till it hits it's target. Really good human eyesight might see it at 2 miles, and that's less than one second from striking. And it wouldn't be alone, they would be launched in groups, and in probably three multiple waves of them. Serious weapon... edit: it's moving so fast it would try to glow bright red from heat. It would be like getting hit with a large meteorite. If it missed and hit the water, the shock wave in the water at that speed would be enough to sink most ships. (If it weighed at least 500 pounds.)

One in the SUV and one student in the bus. Probably the first bus, in the back.