AudiOn19s

Isn't that a '70 1/2?

There's a place off of Route 3 about 1/2 mile south of Shottensteins that specializes in fire equipment that re-certified my bottle. This was back about 8 years though and I can't remember their name for the life of me.

The skirts are indeed the M3 skirts..which also came on all of the "is" cars. Bumpers are regular. Not that it REALLY matters. I know the wheels...they sat in my basement forever. please PM me with the fault codes. Those o2 sensors are $$$ so I'm trying to get a feel for if it needs all 4 of them or not. Andy

When you say M3 Package...does this mean you've got the correct bumpers and skirts for the car too? I don't see them pictured. Or does M3 package = M3 wheels? Did you ever pull the codes? Andy

Wuss.

Just you, me, and Chris (smokey) that I know of. Eric couldn't get rear rotors, craig had other obligations come up. I'm sure Matt (Tinman) is gonna make it up there...just havn't heard if he's gonna head up with us in the morning or not. I've gotta go bleed brakes...then I"m gonna hit the bed early too. See ya in the morning. Andy

We really need to be on the road just a touch sooner to make sure we get there and situated before the 9:45 drivers meeting. How's 6:25-30 ish sound? Andy

Might want to look into hose-less (not waterless) products for your regular maintenance washes. Optimum No-Rinse and ProectAll quick and Easy Wash are the two leaders in the industry. I use these products to wash my personal cars in the winter. Basically you use two buckets of water (which you can get from your fresh water source) to wash the car. I prefer using a spray gun with these products to mist the surface of the car prior to washing that particular area. With this method you really have to be a stickler to detail...but it can be a great and safe alternative to what we all know as 'regular" washing. Here's a video showing how to use the product. Note** he doesn't use a second bucket for rinsing off the wash mit. I prefer the 2 bucket method. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-744800996428313622 That said, if you're in a bind you certainly can wash the car with your well water, just make sure you don't do it in the sun as you'll get water spotting that will be very difficult to remove. Andy

never saw any insults from you...no worries.

He's pretty attached to it, and alot of money has gone into it over the years...so I'm not sure that him advertising it is quite the same as "trying" to sell it.

Don't Forget Auto Assets right there in Powell. They're a GIAC dealer and have done several high HP Audi builds in the last few years. Heck the owner's personal '97 A4 has been an experimental base for them for nearly 10 years now. Currently it's a built 2.0L with a GT28 that's reliable to be driven on the street and tracked without concern.

+1. My shoe barely fits under the front lip on the 911.

You need to buy another car already! Get the Lazer back it would have been a blast at nelson. The great thing about Nelson is it's mainly a momentum track except for the back straight. There's very little lap time difference between high HP cars and low HP cars. The last time I was lapping in close proximity to both American Iron cars AND spec Miata's. This also helps cut down on traffic issues. Andy

Yup. I'll set that stuff aside. I've actually got more than 8oz of the poorboys polishes in the event you want more than that or others want some. Give me a ring Monday I plan on being in town. Andy

I've got Poli-seal not opti-seal. Very different products with a similar name though.

I've got some detaling stuff laying around that I either don't use anymore, or I'm not using quickly enough to go through it all before it goes bad so I'm listing some of it up here for sale. All items are stored in my climate controlled basement when not being used. Links added for product descriptions for those who may not be familiar with these. **note...if it matters to you some will not be in the origional packaging. 4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection: $8.00 for 8oz http://www.premiumautocare.com/ultimate-paint-protection.html S100 Caranumba Past wax -Nearly full, used for maybe 3 cars: $10.00 http://www.autogeek.net/s1capawax.html Poorboys SSR1: $5.00 for 8oz http://www.poorboysworld.com/super-swirl-removers.htm Poorboys SSR2.5: $5.00 for 8oz (see above link) Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze ~14oz left: $12.00 http://www.autogeek.net/klashiggloss.html 1Z Glanz Wax: Approx 350-400ml left (500ml container): $10.00 http://www.autogeek.net/1z-einzett-glanz-wax.html 1Z Paint Polish: nearly full: $15.00 http://www.autogeek.net/1z-einszett-paint-polish.html Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover(old formula). used maybe 1oz from the bottle: $**on hold** http://www.autogeek.net/pin220.html 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Approx. 20 oz. $10.00 http://www.autogeek.net/3mimhanglaz.html Optimum Poly-seal: $5.00 for 8oz. http://www.optimumcarcare.com/optimumpolish.html Mothers California Gold Caranuba cleaner wax (paste) ~80% left: $5.00 http://www.autogeek.net/motcalgolorf.html PM is probably best for getting ahold of me. Or you can call 614-747-0002. Andy

Ha...since I still havn't unpacked the car from Mid Ohio last week...suppose I'll just forget the whole unpacking deal and we'll be good to go.

NASA always runs Pro course at Mid Ohio becuase there's racing going on at the same time as DE...and they use the pro configuration just like most of the racing organizations do now. There was talk at first that they were going to rotate and use the pro course one year and the club course the next, but I think for the sake of consistancy they decided to just stick to the Pro. configuration. Most groups allow passing out of T1 even using the club course but only in the more advanced groups. We were passing there with PCA last week.

Stick with Woolite and Water for cleaning. Your wallet will thank me.

What's available for the car as far as shocks go? (sorry for my lack of knowledge of the platform).

Probably the best advise here to date. May be getting ahead of yourself with looking to build another car this early in the game.

Doesn't even really have to be a M3...Find an E36 325i. Even if you don't build it for racing you can purchase alot of the parts that the Spec series guys run on their race cars for little or no money because the serires are setup as entry level race series to be done on the cheap. They don't do anything exotic as far as suspension bits etc, just proven platforms that you can bolt togehter and go with great success.

Sadly, this will be a short thread. You building something to Race or just do DE's lapping events with?...if racing, decide what division and class you want so you don't build something outside of the rules and have to re-do it later. Personally I'd build something rear drive. Miata, E36, 944 all come to mind as good starting platforms that won't exactly break the bank. If you're buying/building a track-only car there's pleanty of the 3 cars just mentioned for sale all the time that all run in spec. classes and won't run a ton of money for a fully prepped, ready to go car. Andy

EEK!!!

I take it this was a big turbo car then since there's no ECU/ Turbo/ Downpipe or Intake manifold on the car? How many miles were on the short block with the big turbo on there? I see no intake manifold...does the stock one come with the car Are the AC lines missing too? Looks to be makeshift wiring made up to try to get spark to the coilpacks...were these attempts unsuccessful?