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Posts posted by fungames43232
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As I said each have their applications. Most I have seen that drag use the Shinko. I would not trust a Shinko for knee dragging. The profile is all wrong.
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I have seen broken retainers cause that. Might want to pop off the valve cover and cams to take a look. If you drop a valve, you won't be a happy camper. If you just have to replace a couple shattered retainers you will be ok. My 10 had 2 of them broken and was doing exactly what you are saying.
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the sport attacks are good tires.. i use them on street and track, but they really arent on a budget they are about mid pack pricing, the dunlop qualifiers are cheaper
True, but you find them on sale quite a bit. I go mine when Hinds went out. 50% off. Gotta love it. Oh well, I don't have that bike anymore. Running a flat profile Shinko now. I can't turn anyways with the Brock's sidewinder and lowered profile, but I can sure make it to 190+ really really quick ....Lets see someone's Dunlop or PP keep up with my Shinko in a roll on. My guess is if some can keep up, they are running a Shinko too.
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Would someone be willing to re-time my cams to 105 in 107ex. Currently sits at 103 in 105 ex. I know how to do it, I have the tools, but found out I have a hernia and I'm not suppose to turn wrenches. I hate getting old! Shouldn't be that hard of a procedure.
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Shinko's are great tires for their purpose. They are soft, sticky and have a flatter than normal profile. More tire on the DRAG track means more traction. If you want to go knee dragging and your on a budget Conti Sport attack work well. If your not on a budget, just like everyone says PP's are great.
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I used the SWAG approach.
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Ha got it. Well sorta. I cheated and used a micro switch cause I couldn't figure out how the starter wiring worked.
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Ok so now I can no longer start the bike no matter what wire I hook up. Im at a loss
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There is nothing in the re-flash unfortunately. You can build a 1st gear lock out, but I just wanted to use the starter button past 3rd. My goal is to make it to 170 in the 1/4 mile. I'll never be able to compete with the other bikes at trails, but good enough for me. As for turbo......well I had thought about it but decided against it for reliability reasons. If you configure nitrous correctly it's safe...ie no nitrous when the rev limiter sets in, A/F below 12 and yes only at WOT.
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Hey I'm starting to get closer.
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Yep I'm taking out the pciiir and flashing the ecu this way it auto switches to the nitrous map. Not hard if you are okay with spraying 1st gear. all I need to do is to figure out the on off switch and which wire gives me 12v when the starter Byron is pushed
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Ok I'm about to give up trying to figure this out. I would much rather give someone here some money than a dealer. Here is what we have. I currently have nitrous on my starter switch(I didn't wire). I am getting rid of that set up and going with an ECU set up with a smithbybusa wire. I know how to hook it up if I was just going to go with the smith setup, but I want to still run it through the starter button, so I don't spray in 1st and 2nd. I have the bike apart with access to the wires. If someone can figure this mess out let me know how much you want.
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guess Ill have to have someone teach me LOL....When does everyone go? Weds or Fri?
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Still have the brake pads, I forgot they are for a CBR. I had the upgraded calipers on my 10
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I've seen this on dirt bikes. Check your timing and make sure the flywheel is tight tight tight. Actually I caused this issue on my sons dirt bike because I knocked his PU coil out of place and didn't tighten the rotor enough.
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I know this is not what you want to hear, but I would recommend learning on your own. With all my stuff I believe you should know more about it than a mechanic. Just think, you just need to know your 14, a mechanic needs to know all bikes. We are all here to help if you need it. We all started somewhere.
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Ill be there as soon as I install my new ECU and rotor. No more PCIII's for me. I'll be running dual fuel maps, dual timing curves, and nitrous window switch, all straight from the stock ECU.
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My vote is excellent job!
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I just wanted to share my experience with DynoTune Motorsports. I have had 2 bikes tuned by Brian and I was more than happy with the results. Mind you I am not a racer (yet) but the tune felt great to me. My first bike was a ZX6R. This bike used a power commander and a DJ hub with nitrous. Brian tuned 2 maps for this bike, one for motor and one for Nitrous. Both maps worked flawless. With a flip of a switch I had a 135 hp on a 600cc bike (small shot through the filter). My second bike was a ZX10 complete with full akropovich exhaust, thin head gasket, racing cam, PCIII and ignition module. Brian tuned both the PCIII and ignition module. Again felt great to me. I then traded the 10 for a busa. The person I traded the 10 to IS a racer. As soon as he got home he took the 10 to a race shop who tunes drag bikes. The tuner said is one of the best tunes that he had ever seen on a bike and would not touch it. Exact words were the A/F was spot on. I know I have read mixed reviews on Brian's work, but I can say from multiple experiences that in all cases my bike felt smoother, had better throttle response, and when a performance tuner says the same thing that is good enough for me. Brian if you happen to see this for some reason you have a Busa coming your way.
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yea I can see my 9yo running all over the place LOL.
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LOL I'm a single dad with 3 kids. I would live there if I could.
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Looks really good for an ugly bike
Your calling my girl ugly dems fightin words LOL......kidding Thanks
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Quick shifter and brake pads sold to attackpainter.
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Attack painter hit me up first on the quick shifter.
Shinko Tires Review
in Tech and Tips
Posted
I was joking about the Shinko LOL.....I know it's the bike. 190 depends on which sprocket is on the bike. Yes there is a little bit of a power add to the bike. If you want to play the dyno game, do NOT run a Shinko. A used hard tire will give you a perceived HP boost on the dyno. This is why you can't rely on dyno numbers alone. If you really want a good dyno number go on a cooler, non-humid day and run an old bias ply tire.